Got it.
A quick DIY
1. Remove interior trim panel.
3 screws at the bottom
2 screws covered by round trim pieces
1 screw at door handle
Pop switch panel loose
1 screw behind switch panel, only accessed after panel is popped loose
2 trim fasteners on edge of door. Press in the center and they'll release.
1 "snap" at the inboard (hinge) side of the door panel
2. Pull panel upward. At this point it's likely held only at the window sill and needs to go straight up with a little force.
3. Gain access to access panel.
Remove the plastic vapor barrier. Be careful not to tear it. The top portion is attached with a thin clear adhesive, similar to tape. Peal it loose. The bottom and sides are attached with a tar-like form-in-place gasket (fipg). Peel it loose and use a razor to cut the gasket as you go. Try to leave as much as possible to re-seal afterwards.
Remove the screws securing the access panel.
Remove the interior door handle. Nothing holding it at this point, it just slides to the side and then comes loose.
4. Locate the acuator and remove the two small philips machine thread screws securing it to the bracket.
Remove the bracket bolt (brass-colored zinc annodized).
Remove the wiring harness plug. (The release is on the inboard side)
Remove the window track bolt (silver)
Remove the three Torx 30 bolts holding the door catch.
Remove the cable from the actuator. (Study how it's connected)
Remove 1 screw holding the white plastic guard that surrounds the actuator assembly.
5. Replace the acuator.
Pull the assembly toward the access opening.
Insert the new actuator.
Notice the two points that athe actuator must contact. There's an opening for the actuator arm. There's also a small "ball" type joint that must line up with the square insert on the actuator. I found these two to be the trickiest part of the whole process.
Connect the cable to the actuator.
Re-mount the actuator. Two screws to the assembly, one screw for the white plastic guard, one brass bolt for the bracket.
Fasten the silver bolt for the window track.
Fasten the three Torx 30 screws for the door latch. (Recommend adding Locktite blue)
6. Fasten the access panel cover.
7. Re-seal the plastic vapor barrier. You can use the original materials/adhesive
8. Attach interior trim panel (reverse of removal).
9. Enjoy a Captain Morgan and Diet Coke.
Most of this is from memory. I didn't take pics as I was mainly focused on getting the hell out of my 100 degree 95% humidity garage.

It should also be noted that the actuator itself is around $100 ($80 from cruiserdan at American Toyota New Mexico - google number). The small motor in the actuator is what fails. The motor can be sourced for around $1 (yes $1). I didn't realize this before purchasing a new actuator. Search clublexus for more details on sourcing the motor.
Happy to answer any questions.
Cheers,
MoJ