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2nd Generation (2000-2004) Specific discussion of the second generation Toyota Avalon

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Old 01-08-2010, 09:59 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Have 120,000 miles on my 2001... now what?

Basically, my question is, what should i do ( besides the regular commen sense maintenance ) do i look into for the proper upkeep of this car. Engine still runs great. When should i look into chaging the spark plugs? Does anyone recommend any particular brand? When do people do the tune up ( i know that is part of the plugs package)? I get that bowling ball sound from my rear suspension, other Avalon threads make me to believe it is related to rear sway bushings. So i know i need to get that done. How about the transmission fluid. I've had the car for 40,000 miles and haven't touched any of these things. Whereas my Ford Focus, i've had all of this stuff changed already, am i a little late? Thanks.

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Old 01-11-2010, 09:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The stock plugs last a long time. You may not have the original plugs in there, is perhaps you do. Check that first. The stock plugs are good, so you might as well stick with that brand, model.

Get going on a conservative schedule for transmission fluid and coolant changes. Maybe plan to change these fluids at about 60% of the recommended intervals. I assume you don't know the previous maintenence info about the car, so keep these fluid "like-new" might help avoid problems.

Check for a sticker about a timing belt replacement. You are probably 30K overdue on that. If you're having a shop do it, go for a full update down there with the timing belt (water pump & pulleys) so you save on labor. Although if you're hoping to save some money, have them check the water pump and replace only if leaking. Some people only replace the pump every other timing belt job.

You are due for struts and strut mounts. The bumping you hear might be just that. You can tell by listening in the back seat. If the noise sound to be coming from near the top of seat (over the wheel) its the strut mount, most likely.


Run some good fuel system cleaner through the thing and you should be good to go.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Is the timing belt original? That's supposed to get replaced at 90k and would be the determining factor (to me) as to what would get serviced next.
Plugs are due at 120k and you could combine that job with the TB and water pump replacement. As far as brand, I'd go with the Nippondenso Iridiums that came with the car.
Rear sway bar bushings and rear struts were shot on my '02 at 60k. Rest of the suspension is original at 123k.
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Old 01-11-2010, 01:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Wow... i was hoping you guys would say, "Bud, you are good for another 50,000... don't worry about it." But that's great to hear in regards to preventative maintenance. I bought it used in 06 for the wife and it is almost paid for, so i like to keep it up and running as long as possible. I have a neighborhood mechanic ( that i trust ) whose labor in relatively kind, in comparison to taking it to a Toyota dealer. Honestly, i've yet to take it to a dealer, but i may consider it when dealing with the timing belt. Don't they have to pull the engine for that? Forgive my ignorance when it regards to the TB, i just had it replaced on my Focus, which blew a head gasket plug. But of course they had to pull the engine to diagnos the problem. Btw, i know the bushings is a cheap fix, atleast wise, how much am i looking at to do the struts, assuming i get charged $60 / hour for labor.
Thanks for your inputs...

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Old 01-12-2010, 11:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Your guy should do the timing belt for you. Its not a problem to do. Engine doesn't need to be pulled. Tell him the plugs can be changed without removing the intake and he'll figure that out too.

Rear suspension can be done in a couple of hours. Figure $200 parts plus allignment.

You should be good for another 100K ? (minus the front struts
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd include the water pump, cam seals, and serpentine belt in the TB job if you do have to go that route.
Kegunder is right about the suspension stuff too. You may want to drain and fill the trans fluid regularly. Your guy can show you how and then do it regularly yourself, just like oil changes.
Don't forget about that sludge issue - that's critical toward longevity and money wasted on maintenance. Keep the Pcv system clean and the oil fresh.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Keg, i hope you are right with another 100K. That would be sweet, especially since the sucker is almost paid for. I'm about 11 mos from taking it to FL, so its good to hear all the suggestions. And Chi, what you are saying makes since, swap out these compenents pre-emptively while its my choice instead of waiting for them to go seperately.

This is my first psuedo-luxury car, so i want it to last. At the time it was between this, the Audi A6 and Volvo S6 all of the same year. I think i made out with the better car. And with family sucking up my money, there's not a lot left for car notes, although i've always loved how they slightly redid the 03-04 with the wood steering wheel, rear lights and stock allow rims.
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob774 View Post
. And Chi, what you are saying makes since, swap out these compenents pre-emptively while its my choice instead of waiting for them to go seperately.
Yeah, make sure the guy includes that in the TB job. The parts and service is right there. You pay a good labor charge for a TB job and replacing these ancillary parts is an area where they cut costs and you don't benefit.
Water pump is a clear example. You have to remove the TB to change the water pump. A new pump (with the TB job) costs you the price of the pump, a gallon of coolant, and that's about it.
If you wait until the pump leaks, you get to pay for a new pump as well as a new belt (destroyed by coolant) and the labor. Again.
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Rob - Price the work, but before you have it done, or do it yourself, have the front valve cover removed (inexpensive) and inspect the valve train for sludge. That is probably the most sensible and dollar efficient item to do.
If it is sludge free, the maintenance is a no-brainer just like the next 100k miles.
If it is not, you have some reading and decision making to endure before spending.
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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[quote=ChiTDI;3040368]Yeah, make sure the guy includes that in the TB job. The parts and service is right there. You pay a good labor charge for a TB job and replacing these ancillary parts is an area where they cut costs and you don't benefit.
Water pump is a clear example. You have to remove the TB to change the water pump. A new pump (with the TB job) costs you the price of the pump, a gallon of coolant, and that's about it.
If you wait until the pump leaks, you get to pay for a new pump as well as a new belt (destroyed by coolant) and the labor. Again.[/quote

Also make sure the TB is new and not used.
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