Those are the only new codes. I've had a faulty rearward Air/Fuel sensor heating circuit for a while. My attempts to remove it for repair have been unsuccessful thus far. But, the sensor itself appears to be working fine.
Other things to consider. Its been damn cold here. Maybe I something froze in a fuel line a little bit.
Also, I charged the battery this weekend and the engine is running smooth now.
I have the exact problem here, same codes and idle problem. My Avalon is a 2001 though. Advance and Autozone both said I had water in the gas, so I used a gas treatment but no improvement. Not sure how long it should take. We too have experienced some really cold temps, cold for the south anyway. Any ideas?
Well I got a new engine code now: P1351. This is a bank 2 VVT sensor range code.
I haven't check the VVT oil screen yet. The car runs pretty well still. Is the new code relating to the cam position sensor or something else? Could this be related to a sludge buildup? Has anyone seen these sensors fail and throw these codes?
My 2000 Avalon has 151,000. I have been using a full synthetic for the last 75K changing every year of 15000 whichever occurs first. Use Mobil 1 filters. Car just threw a P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Checking both of the oil control valves OVC's for voltage both ok. Took out oil and ran 4 quarts AT fluid for 25 minutes. Took out and filled with new Super Sync 5W-30 synthetic. After warm up car misses and light returns. Ordered two OVC filters 15678-20010 from dealer. Will put in this week and report back. I don't think it is water in the gas, because it only misses after warm up.
No, I have not removed either valve cover. There may be sludge, but my dipstick oil is a light brown amber after almost one yearand 15 K. Used Amsoil for a while then switch to SuperTech full syn. The 4qts of AT as a flush, I had heard of along time ago. My son's friend who has a mobil auto diagnostic business suggested it. Over the weekend he pulled the code and checked the OCV's for voltage which was around 5 volts which was good. He also did a osillascope test and the wave pattern was fine. I am hoping the problem is some crude in the left ocv filter which looks to be a big nut just below the left OCV. The part was only $7.00 and it should be in tomorrow. My timing belt was changed around 100k, so you may be right that the left cam is out of tune, but I am hoping that a new ocv filter will allow the right amount of oil to pass thru and cure eveything.
Last edited by OpticNerve; 02-07-2010 at 09:41 PM.
Read the Haynes manual. Disconnected the battery.Goal remove the Bank 2(left) (head closest to the radiator) ocv filter. To get at the ocv filter nut, I remove the air cleaner hose w/ resonator, and a few other hoses. In a novice attempt to remove the connector from the ocv, I broke the clip! Tried to be careful but it was not hard if you don't know what you are doing. There are a variety of electrical connectors with all the sensors etc. Some are easy to disconnect others are tricky. Cracked the 14mm nut and was ready for about an oz of oil that came out. Pulled the tiny filter out with a needle nose pliers. Sadly, the ocv filter looked CLEAN of gunk. No O ring came out but I did not have a new one to replace it anyway. Inserted new filter,replaced the nut etc. and electrical taped the ocv connector. Reconnected battery, warmed up and took off. So far and I only went a few miles no codes and no missing. More miles will tell.
Well, I took the old girl out again yesterday afternoon, and about 4 miles down the road my check engine light comes back. This time she is blinking. Not good. Do I stop, or should I go back home? Well, I took her home and I hope she recovers. From what I read from a Toy tech a 'flashing check' engine light is saying whatever the code is telling like misfire is 'IN PROCESS'.
Went up to the dealership and ordered an ocv for Bank 2. If it comes in and the weather breaks, I will put that in and see what happens. Should have taken the ocv filter out of bank 2 before I ordered the filter. The filter was clean, so I wasn't surprised when the check engine light came back on. Wish I had a scanner.
The problem has reappeared again. This time it isn't that cold out. Please let me know if anyone has an idea on how to fix it (or what to focus on.)
On the highway, cruising at 65 mph on flat ground, the car was 'cutting out' for about one second every few minutes. By that, I mean, losing drive power. It felt like what happens when you press the coast button for the cruise control. But, after one second, every time, the power would return. There was no change in tach. rpms. Nothing electrical happened.
At the start of this trip, the CEL flashed for about 30 seconds or so. The stored codes were exactly the same. 300,302,304,306,1354.
Also, the power brakes had less power assist for another brief period of time. But the brakes worked fine with manual power during that period.
Like I said I am not a mechanic, but I like to Google up any question that comes to mind. An Oil Control Valve is a solenoid valve that controls the amount of oil going into the Variable Valve Timing sprocket/actuator. There are some great videos some in 3D that explains how an engine with VVT works. Variable Value Timing has replaced fixed value timing which means that the amount and time an intake value for example is open can be adjusted depending on the driving situation. A fixed value really as only one ideal speed/fuel utilization. I just replaced the OCV on Bank2, and so far no lights. I am taking it on a long ride this afternoon, and I will report back how it goes.
For those who like a really technical explanation of what does an ocv do see http://www.drive.subaru.com/Win05_WhatsInside.htm "The oil control valve uses oil pressure from the engine to advance and retard the intake camshafts via the AVCS actuator." See end of page for a diagram of Subaru's version of Toyota's VVTi.
Last edited by OpticNerve; 02-08-2010 at 07:31 AM.
I just came back from the trip and so far I have put 160 miles with the new OCV. No MLI and I think a worn out OCV was the root cause of all the codes. Makes sense the P1354 = "Bank-2 VVTi malfunction, and the other codes are that their are misfires specifically in CY2, CY4 and CY 6, which are the cylinders in Bank 2. From all the places I looked the P1354 is usually caused by either a malfunctioning OCV or a clogged OCV filter. In my case (151,000 miles) the OCV will work when the engine is cold, but after warm up the solenoid OHM resistance must be bad, and their is not the proper amount of oil entering the sprocket/actuator of the VVT. Thank you csaxon, you got me started on the right path. Ke, I would suggest checking for a clogged OCV filter, but I think it will be clean.Then the most likely other thing causing the codes is a worn out OCV. Tomorrow I will get the sales slip and give you the exact part number for the Bank 2 OCV. The parts diagram at the dealership was very confusing, and if you order the OCV for Bank 1, it won't fit. The bracket for the hold down bolt is positioned on a different part of the OCV for Bank 1.
Also, a big 'Thank You' goes to the Haynes Repair Manual, and especially to all the folks behind the scenes at ToyotaNation that make this forum work.
Last edited by OpticNerve; 02-08-2010 at 09:25 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to OpticNerve For This Useful Post:
Please respond back with a part number and an on-line source, if possible. I saw your posts in my thread on bitog. Another member posted part numbers in that thread, but I have had no luck finding them (on-line searching only.)
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