seafoam treatment for engine sludge on 2000 avalon? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

jonathag · 01-09-2010, 07:29 PM

I've posted a couple of times about my avalon with sludge. Still don't know what to do as far as getting another car or trying to stick it out and chance it with this one.

My mechanic pulled the oil pan and cleaned the screen. So far it's ok.

I talked to a guy tonight that said it is best to use seafoam and run that through the engine, then run the old oil through it, then seafoam again, then put new oil in it--I probably have those steps wrong, but it was something like that. He said he could do it for me but I don't know yet how much that treatment will cost.

Just looking online it looks like I can do the seafoam treatment myself.

Does that stand a good chance of clearing out the sludge? Can I do it myself or do I have to have someone do it?

jonathag · 01-09-2010, 07:38 PM

Or I found auto-rx, is that a good product to use, does it work?

CJCride · 01-09-2010, 07:51 PM

Use Seafoam as directed. It might do it and is not as expensive as the RX stuff.

***humanoid*** · 01-09-2010, 08:09 PM

I've heard good things about RX. I've personally have used SeaFoam and it's good stuff too.

jonathag · 01-09-2010, 08:41 PM

Thanks! And I can use the seafoam as directed? Is it just a 'pour it in the engine' type of treatment or is it something my mechanic will have to do?

***humanoid*** · 01-09-2010, 08:44 PM

You can do it yourself. Directions are on the can. SeaFoam is usually sucked up through the brake booster hose and/or the PCV valve. You can pour some in with the oil and some in the gas tank. It's suggested you change the oil and spark plugs after a few hundred miles with the SeaFoam in the oil.

jonathag · 01-09-2010, 09:48 PM

Awesome, thanks! My mechanic changed the oil and filter after dropping the pan and cleaning the screen, so I can put some in now. I'll pick some up.

kegunder · 01-10-2010, 10:53 AM

I think that Seafoam in the oil is a bad idea. I used it to clean the fuel delivery system, but don't expect it clean the sludge in any way that could be considered helpful.

A slow cleaner like auto-rx is what you need. In fact, I don't think there's a comparable product to auto-rx. I've used it on my avalon even though I don't have noticeable amounts of sludge. I continue to use it.

That said, you might be fine running short oil change intervals using a solid/quality oil (conventional oil even) without any additives. Don't mix additives. Make a plan and stick with it, you'll be fine as long as you don't aggressively remove the deposits without ensuring that the small oil passages don't become blocked. If you only use the car for very short distance trips, you will need to take active measures to clean things up. That type of driving is the most extreme condition this engine can face.

Good luck.

(Btw, follow the instructions of auto-rx and you'll end up saving yourself a large amount of money, most likely.)

Riick · 01-27-2010, 10:12 PM

Now it's known that the sludge problem comes from small oil passages and oil pump gears chewing the oil and literally changing its chemical composition.
But sludge.. or gelled oil as it's better described, is not a new thing.
Sea Foam, RX, or the old fashioned remedy - Kerosene - will all work... dissolve the sludge, and flush away.

If I thought I had this problem (and why is it you think you have the sludge problem?)
I'll clean up that engine as far as possible, as quickly as possible.
Low speed running of engine [idling engine] with a good percentage of Sea Foam, Kerosene, or other "grease cutter", will not hurt anything.
[[ You could even do yourself good with simple multiple oil changes to let the fresh detergents do their work. ]]

If the car takes 5 quarts oil,
1. Drain old oil out.
2. Add 4 quarts oil, 1 quart Kerosene, idle car for 10 minutes, drain out oil mix..
3. Install new oil filter, add 4 quarts oil, 1 quart Kerosene, idle car for 10 minutes, drain out oil mix.
4. --- Continue #3 above until oil mixture drained out looks like fresh oil ---
5. Install new oil filter, add 5 quarts fresh oil, idle for 10 minutes, drain oil out.
6. Install new oil filter, add 5 quarts fresh oil, check for leaks, go about your business.

7. Repeat all the above -after a week or three- just to be sure.
8. Begin to change oil religiously every 3mos or 3,000 miles

.

blkavalon · 01-31-2010, 09:48 PM

i have worked on quite a few sledged up 1mzfe engines. on these engines sludge is so severe nothing is going to clean the sludge. best way is to pop the valve covers and remove all the sludge by using a brush and kerosene. after that do what riick said. this is the best way.

jonathag · 02-02-2010, 09:09 AM

Thanks guys,

Well, after my mechanic cleaned the screen (he said it had alot of sludge on it and he cleaned it to make it look new), I drove the car for 2000 miles and yesterday when I was approximately 100 miles from home the oil light came on again, had to pull over and get towed all the way back home, I didn't drive the car with the oil light on for more than a mile or so.

Now I am wondering what to do again. Does the Kerosene methods above stand the best chance of fixing this problem without getting another car? My original plan was to start using auto-rx when I got close to 2500 miles on this oil change but I only made it 2000 miles before the light came back on.

Also-when I checked the oil level yesterday the level was fine but you could see black specs on the dipstick, which wiped off ok, but I guess when he cleaned the screen that broke up some sludge that is now floating around and clogging things up again?

I know this is a rambling post but I really don't want to buy another car to replace this one and get into another payment. If I try the kerosene methods and removing the heads as mentioned above, and the problem comes back, is it time to ditch the car at that point?

blkavalon · 02-02-2010, 09:31 AM

just doing doing the screen is just a waste of time and money. most of the sludge is on the top end and the top end has to be cleaned first then the pan has to be cleaned last. just putting a chemical wouldnt fix it it just create more problems because all the sludge that comes loose block the passages. best way is to remove the valve covers and clean it.

jonathag · 02-02-2010, 09:35 AM

Thanks, so pop the valve covers off and clean under them and do the kerosene method above? Does that stand the best chance of keeping me on the road for more than a couple thousand miles?

jonathag · 02-02-2010, 09:47 AM

Amazon

would something like this product be good to use instead of kerosene? I read that kerosene isn't very safe to use and the quto-rx product is alot more expensive than this. I was thinking of using this product instead of kerosene and a cheaper brand of oil and oil filter for the flushes mentioned above, then use Catrol and a Fram oil filter and the auto-rx when I'm ready to change it for the last time after all the flushes, and having the valve covers pulled and cleaned underneath.

Does that sound like a good plan? I'm just trying to throw everything I can at this to try and get out of buying something else. I want to know that I've done all I can to fix this, so if it happens again I can scrap the car and not feel like I could have done something more.

blkavalon · 02-02-2010, 09:55 AM

yep, front cover is eazy but for the back cover you have to take the intake manifold. it can be done anybody with basic mechanical skills. while you are at it make sure to clean it very well just like the 3rd pic i have attached. make sure to switch to synthetic and change your oil 3-4 k. do a kerosine flush every other oil change, change your pcv valve every year. your car should be good for a atleast 50k miles (depends on how much mechanical damage was done by sludge).