2000 Avalon Sputtering when it warms up and then power brakes quit working

[WesMan]

I drive a 2000 Toyota Avalon V6 3.0L and am having some problems with it.
When I first start it up in the morning, everything seems to run okay, but about 5 minutes into driving it, I notice the engine is starting to sputter a bit and when I stop at a stop sign, the engine is seems to be misfiring. I got the codes from the local shop and they say "Engine Misfire on Cylinders 2, 4, & 6."
I also notice that when the car really starts to sputter, my power brakes get stiff and I cannot stop easily.
I have already tried changing the Ignition coils on each of them without any change.
I was under the hood the other day and started the engine. Soon after, I tested some things by unplugging the Ignition coil to the spark plugs on each of them (cyl 2, 4, 6.) The engine got increasingly more bogged down as I unplugged them (this was a good thing.) I plugged them back in and then let the car run for about 5 minutes and then the sputtering started back up on it's own. At this point, I tried the test again. I unplugged each of the ignition coils on the front cylinders (2,4,6) again and was confused, because now there wasn't any change in how the engine was running. It was like the front 3 cylinders were not running at all. I unplugged all the wires to the Fuel injectors and the spark plugs and it didn't change the way the engine ran.
I have a feeling this may be an electrical issue but really have no idea. Can anyone help me?!
Thanks in advance!

[humanoid]

Welcome to the forum! I'll move your post to the appropriate forum where you'll get more help.

[WesMan]

I have now changed the spark plugs on cylinders 2, 4, & 6 and changed the fuel filter.
Still sputtering.
I have noticed that when the car is cold and I start it up, it seems to run great for 5 minutes, then when it gets warmed up, it starts to sputter.
Any ideas?

[WesMan]

Originally Posted by csaxon

Your brake booster isn't pulling enough vacuum. Check all vacuum lines for connection, cracks, plugged, etc. This vacuum leak or blockage could explain the sputtering.

I will check for hoses that are leaking, but would the engine being cold make it better than the engine being warmed up? Seems like a leaky hose would leak all the time.

[csaxon]

You're correct but some are connected to valves that open or close at idle and some aren't activated until the engine warms up or you activate them by stepping on the brake. The brake booster hose has a one way check valve and a diaphram. If it's leaking or the diaphram has a hole, then the pedal is hard to press.

[WesMan]

Originally Posted by csaxon

You're correct but some are connected to valves that open or close at idle and some aren't activated until the engine warms up or you activate them by stepping on the brake. The brake booster hose has a one way check valve and a diaphram. If it's leaking or the diaphram has a hole, then the pedal is hard to press.

Okay. I'm definitely more of a beginner in the car fixing process, but if I can read up on how to check this diaphram then I will see if it is leaking.
I read another forum that suggested that it may be a bad Catalytic Converter. FYI: I had to get a new engine about 40,000 miles ago because the guy that owned if before me got the Engine Oil Sludge issue. It smoked a lot back then when I got it, but could it be creating the backpressure that could cause the vacuum to be inconsistant?
Thanks!

[Riick]

Can't figure what would cause misfires on one bank of cylinders, AND,
vac leak to power brake booster.
But... Strange coincidences do happen (Murphy is waiting for all of us) so they might not be related,
but that's not the way I'd bet.

Still.... would definitely closely check all the hoses leading to brake booster both with engine cold, and then later Saturday morning, when brake feel changes.

[OpticNerve]

You said that a local shop said their was misfiring on even cylinders or Bank2. Can you tell me what ALL of the codes were? I think that some electrical sensor i.e. camshaft, or like in my case a bad oil control valve (OCV) could be the root cause of the misfiring. I would focus on what is causing that and worry about the brakes issues second.

[WesMan]

I took the 2000 Avalon into a local mechanic and he ran some tests on it and is saying that the problem is a Code:1354. He says that its a problem with the Variable Valve timing controller/module. He also told me I'd be better off to take it to a dealer and that it would be expensive. Any ideas?
Codes: PO300,PO302,PO304,PO306, and P1354

[Riick]

Do a search on Google for that last code P1354 ((Toyota code P1354 ))
Some guys on Lexus forum found that the part is an oil control valve - you have 2 - they are as cheap as $68 each.
Personal labor about 1 hour to replace

//

[OpticNerve]

You really don't have to go to the Lexus forum since we have a Toyotanation Member who started a thread on 1-09-10 with the exact same codes. Just look at questions and the posts. I just replaced the Oil Control Valve for Bank 2 the side nearest the radiator, and it cured my P1354 problem. I also posted the part number. Just be careful removing the electrical connector. I managed to break mine quite easily. After reading the things you have already done, I don't think you will have problem finding and removing the bank 2 ocv. You could check the bank 2 ocv filter, but I think you will not find it clogged. I would also suggest looking for another mechanic, since either he does not subscribed to ALL Data, or just does not like to work on this kind of problem.

Over

[WesMan]

Thanks OpticNerve and Riick,
Last night I picked up my car from the shop and it was running aweful just like before, so I took it home and read these new posts. I let my car sit a little while in my garage then I started it up and while it was idleing well (at first) I unplugged the OCV electrical connection and then took the car for a test drive with it unplugged. It drove MUCH better and did not sputter and the brakes were working again. The only downside is that when I idle while parked, it still has a little vibration and a little clanking noise (maybe ~catalytic converter shield?)
I will try and find a new/cheaper OCV online and order it. If that is it, I'll be very happy. Thanks for the advice guys!

[WesMan]

So, I ordered a new OCV (oil control valve) from a Lexus dealer (same part # for Avalon) and installed it on my engine. I started the car up, and it ran perfectly for 20 minutes so then I was really happy and went to bed since it was late. I got up the next morning, and started the car and it was back to sputtering...maybe even a little worse than before. Any ideas? Could the new part have been bad? Is there a specific way I can test the OCV to see if it is good?

[OpticNerve]

As you must know by now, VVT-i problems are difficult to resolve. To drive home that point, check out http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Re...ts-problem.htm. Bear with the English since the guy is from Finland, but he is a Mechanic and he can't get to bhe bottom of his DTC 1349 problem. At this point, you may need to take her in (must give credit to your local mechanic) to a dealership that has the equipment and experience to get to the root cause of the misfiring.

[WesMan]

I took my car to the dealership and they ran tests on it. They said the OCV is good, but the problem is either 1 of 2 things or 2 of 2 things. He said the VVT Actuator on that bank is probably bad. He said it would be $1,520.69 for parts and labor. I don't really want to pay this much...
Then he said, if that's not it, then it's the Computer. He said that will be either $1,886.19 or around $1,200 depending which part number the computer is. I REALLY REALLY don't want to pay $3300 to fix this older car, but what other options do I have. Are these parts very difficult to change? Does the Computer need completely reprogrammed if it is changed? Does the dealership have to do the programming? What else would need replaced if I changed the Accuator?
Any ideas guys?
Thanks!