Water Pump or Somthing Else

[runco0318]

Came out of the store yesterday, a large puddle of water/antifreeze was under my car. The puddle was actually larger than my car. As I was hoping it was the radiator hose, it was actually leaking from the engine block area, specifically on the passenger side directly beneath the timing belt cover area. This link here will show a picture I took from the passenger side:

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/IMG_8553.jpg

My question, since this is very close to the water pump, is this my problem? I have heard that a bad pump will loose water out the weaping hole, I just assumed it would be small droplets or a very small quantity. My guess is that I lost 2 gallons in about 15 minutes. Would this be normal for a bad water pump? 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS, 240,000K miles. Maintained very well.

[kegunder]

That seems odd to me. I'd guess that a hose or radiator broke. But, I've never had a water pump go bad, so what do I know.

You better fill it up and see where it leaks from. There is a hidden coolant hose in the back innards of the engine.

You know about how dangerous coolant is sitting on the ground, right?

[TrailDust]

With that much fluid leaking in so short a time it ought to be pretty easy to nail down the leak. Could be any numbers of causes, you just have to run down the leak to know for sure.

[robdtoyota]

Runco: Same thing happenned to me about 4 months after i replaced the timing belt and water pump/ Turned out to be a bad water pump. How old is your pump? Not that it matters - mine was only 4 months old and it went. It created a pretty big puddle.

[runco0318]

Update, I am finally tackling my problem in my driveway. Using the following most helpfull link: Changing V6 Timing Belt Pics and the $270 Coil Connector I have followed all the steps upto removing the timing belt cover. The timing belt was soaked and I am highly confident the timing belt has never been changed before, there were no witness marks on any of the bolts, nuts, etc. The belt does have some minor fraying and inside the cover there is a large buildup of timing belt material including some fray, looks like a small rat nest. I am now 100% convinced its my water pump that was the problem. I am probably going to buy one of those OEM kits from ebay. Anyone had any experience with: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT.

I will update as I advance along. With kids baseball, work, and poor weather, it will probably take me a month to do this. Luckily I have another vehicle to drive.

[OpticNerve]

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/IMG_8553.jpg

"My question, since this is very close to the water pump, is this my problem? I have heard that a bad pump will loose water out the weaping hole, I just assumed it would be small droplets or a very small quantity. My guess is that I lost 2 gallons in about 15 minutes. Would this be normal for a bad water pump? 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS, 240,000K miles. Maintained very well."[/quote]

"The timing belt was soaked and I am highly confident the timing belt has never been changed before, there were no witness marks on any of the bolts, nuts, etc. The belt does have some minor fraying and inside the cover there is a large buildup of timing belt material including some fray, looks like a small rat nest. I am now 100% convinced its my water pump that was the problem."[/I]

I often wondered just how far one could go on the original timing belt etc. I have heard that a water pump can go twice the miles of the timing belt. Sounds like you got 240,000 miles on the original belt, pump and everything else. That's really interesting, and I wonder if the parts in the newer Avalons are as well made.

[runco0318]

Finally finished. Bettween the weather, baseball, work, etc. it took me a month to tackle the water pump. I spent an hour here, and there, and finally finished. Well, it was 100% the water pump. So I now have a new timing belt and water pump, both purchased from Toyota. Looking back, this was not too hard of a job. My only problem was the pulley bolt on the crank was a monster to tackle. In the end, a cold chiesel, a hammer, and $7 fixted that problem. I did have a special tool to hold the cam pulleys, could not have removed the bolts on the pulleys without the special tool. I invested about $150 using 100% OEM parts, but I saved hundreds doing it myself, and I am confident that everything was done right including the torque specs and etc. Not always the case if someone else does it.