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Water pump and timing belt change easily done
Maun, it was very easy to change the belt and water pump. If you have some tools you can do it.
I used all hand tools except 3/8 impact (to remove front cam pully) and 1/2 inch impact (to remove crank pully), and 1/4 air ratchet for speed on the small stuff).
Crank needs a 22 mm 6 point socket, Idlers have 13 mm bolts, everything else is 10mm, 12mm and 14mm, that you will need to loosen. You will need several different length extensions as well. I also used a wobble to loosen the AC and alternator belt. Power steering belt was a bugger to get loose since the adjust bolt was way too tight.
The trick is the water pump. I only remove the front cam pully, top idler pully and the small 10mm bolts to remove the back plate and was able to get the water pump off easily. No need to remove the back cam pully at all. I even left the studs in the block on the water pump. You can manuever the pump onto them by taking an extra minute to figure it out.
Lining up the cams and the crank is a no brainer, very good markings on the crank pully, cam pully and the back plate of the cams. The belt has lines on it to assist in lining it up.
I suggest removing the belt tensioner all together, place in a large c clamp or vise to reset slowly and put a 4 penny nail in the hole to keep it back until you replace it and then belt. After belt is on and in time, pull the nail out with pliers and the belt gets tight. The you start the putting back together stage.
Total time about three hours to change the belt and pump.
I did not drain the radiator fluid, the pump did that when I removed it. I had to wet vac it all up real fast after I pulled the pump so I suggest a radiator drain before you get going.
I did not use any silicone on the pump gasket since the factory had none on theirs and the instructions on the metal gasket called for none.
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