Bill,
Something happen to my computer where it forbid me to paste, but it is ok now.
Marc780 did a good job describing the process.
Here are my comments to Marc’s paragraph where I got stuck.
9. INSTALL NEW BELT: Please buy the Toyota OEM belt so you have the align markings. The arrows near the logo on the belt need to point toward you. Now put the new belt on, and then align the marks on the belt with the dots on the pulleys. Toyota says put the belt on in this order: "USAutoParts"
emailexclusives@e.usautoparts.net has the original timing belts for about $27 if I remember correctly.
I do not recommend this sequence.
1 -First put it over the crankshaft gear and align the dot on the spline with the mark on the belt (photo below). I held the belt in place here with a zip tie around the belt -although you could use coat hanger wire too.
2 -Then place the belt under the water pump pulley.
3 - Then around the front-most camshaft pulley, and align the mark.
4 - Then place it under the top idler and then over the left camshaft pulley.
5 - Finally snake it over the lower idler pulley.
You will need a 17 mm socket to align the camshaft pulley marks and they will fight you all the way too, because of valve spring pressure. Here's some tips to make it easier –
We did the timing belt sequence different than above or what Toyota recommends:
Use the Camshaft pulley nearest the firewall (right technically) first then under the top idler and the camshaft pulley nearest the bumper and use clips on both camshaft pulleys to temporary hold the belt in.
Then to the lower idler pulley and to the crankshaft.
The last position is now the tensioner area.
We constantly checked to see that the marks from the pulley and engine were in line with the belt. The belt has to be really taut and tight between the pulleys already treaded. We were sometimes making adjustments to what seemed like 1/16 inch. The tensioner should off as when I really loosened mine, the belt slipped home.
The Camshaft pulley nearest the firewall does not click in position so it is not stable as the other camshaft pulley and crankshaft pulley. But you just have to center the guides in the appropriate places. I used a long screwdriver to temporarily lift up the electrical stuff near the Camshaft nearest the firewall for better vision of the timing mark.
Tip #2, i used vice grips, well padded with a rag, to gently hold the belt onto the front camshaft pulley. Be SURE to not forget to remove the vice grips once you install the tensioner!
14. Important note on reassembly. Put the "RH engine mounting bracket" parts back on BEFORE you reinstall the timing belt covers. The mount is really two pieces called the same thing, per the drawing below. The edge of the timing belt covers go OVER the mount - there is a flange molded onto them for this. So if you put the covers on first you will just have to do it again, because the engine mount goes back on first. The parts in question are shown below, red. Do not make my mistake, line up all the bolts and nuts on the mounting bracket when installing. Two bolts and two nuts are four different positions.
There are two or three difficult stoppers on the timing belt replacement without am air impact guns:
Getting the crankshaft nut off: Marc and I got around this problem by positioning the breaker bar on I guess the control arm with a 22 socket and bump start the engine for me just one time. I just did one click and off immediately to loosen the bolt. I tried to use an electric impact gun from Harbor Freight, but it is not strong enough to the break loose the bolt.
The second stopper is getting the Harmonic wheel off and you need a puller like Marc described Advance auto will lend you the kit if you put in my case a $100 deposit down.
The third is getting the crankshaft bolt back in to 120 foot pounds torque. My mechanic friend told me to use an air impact wrench and shoot it on. As you know the shaft will keep on spinning if you do not have a technique to stop the turn.
Norman
2003 Avalon XLS
1993 Toyota Corolla
to Toyota Nation!
Linear Mode
