02 Avalon XLS not shifting into top (over-drive) gear
I have an 02 Avalon XLS. Just recently did the IACV cleaning thanks to the helpful info from this forum as well as the LOC forum.
Anyhow, my wife primarily drives this car so I don't know how frequently this occurs. Yesterday, I noticed that the car was not shifting into its final gear. The tip-off was that the car was over 2k RPMs at 60 MPH and very responsive to small changes in the accelerator pedal.
I tried clicking the overdrive switch so the "O/D off" light was illuminated. The car actually down-shifted one gear when I did that instead of staying in the second highest gear (where it was at). I clicked the button again so that O/D was enabled and it returned to the 2nd highest gear.
Physically moving the shifter from D to the next gear down resulted in (what felt like) a 2-gear downshift, but going back to D just resulted in the car returning to the 2nd highest gear.
I tried going as fast as 80MPH thinking the car might eventually up-shift from the sheer speed but no luck there.
No warning or check-engine lights are illuminated - everything appears to be in working order other than this shifting issue.
I bought the car with approximately 90k from the dealer in January of 2009 and have yet to change the tranny fluid. The car has about 115k now. Aside from the IACV cleaning, the only other recent work was having the dealer replace all the belts, timing belt, and water-pump.
I've only seen this happen one other time and it stopped after I got on the highway and got up to about 70-75 MPH.
Any thoughts on what the problem may be? I've read/heard everything from low fluid level, to thermostat, to faulty solenoid. Any help is greatly appreciated!
So my father and I flushed the tranny last night. I bought this car used from the dealer 18 months ago and, judging by the condition of the tranny oil, they never changed the fluid before they sold it - how nice...
We first drained the case (via the drain plug) and refilled. Then, we did the method of draining fluid via the radiator return line and refilling after every 2 quarts. Ended up flushing 10 quarts through the tranny and used an 11th bottle to get it to the proper line. The local AutoZone had Castrol Dexron-VI (full synth) on sale, buy-2-get-1-free, so 11 quarts ran me $60 after tax.
Took it for a spin and it's still not going into overdrive.
--
Earlier in the day I called the dealer and beat around the bush to see what kind of info they would tell me. The service rep seemed to think that a specific solenoid had shorted out and, thankfully, it was accessible from outside the case.
So, I'm thinking I will investigate and replace the solenoid before I change the thermostat.
Does anyone have any info/diagrams on the exact placement of the solenoids on these transmissions? I'm assuming that there is a dedicated overdrive solenoid that I should be locating and replacing.
Umm are u sure there is something wrong? In my 04 avalon at 60mph my rpms are slightly over 2k right about 2300 or so. also by clicking off the overdrive via the button on the shifter you are turning off the overdrive thus causing the car to run in 4th gear. this would cause a jump in rpms if the overdrive is working. I believe your car is working just fine
You can try changing that solenoid but that is probably not going to do anything. its not a difficult task if you want to try it. I have never changed Toyota solenoids, but is usually involves unbolting the tranny pan and locating the solenoid that controls shifting into that gear.
Are you sure its not shifting properly?
WORST case scenario, thats not too high of an RPM really. I'll drive mine 60 today and see what rpm's I'm at.
Umm are u sure there is something wrong? In my 04 avalon at 60mph my rpms are slightly over 2k right about 2300 or so. also by clicking off the overdrive via the button on the shifter you are turning off the overdrive thus causing the car to run in 4th gear. this would cause a jump in rpms if the overdrive is working. I believe your car is working just fine
Maybe I'm losing my mind!
I thought that at 60MPH, the RPMs should be around 1500. At least that's how it is on my beater car, a 97 Buick Lesabre which also has a V6 engine. I just don't ever recall the RPMs being over 2k on the Avalon...
edit: I live in a rural area where the vast majority of our driving is 45-65 MPH - it's not as though I occasionally see these speeds. Also, we went out on a Geocaching run last Monday which involved a lot of highway driving. The fuel efficiency was significantly reduced. I had to fill-up after less than 300 miles when I normally pull 360-400 per tank.
Last edited by josephmama; 07-12-2010 at 08:12 AM.
I know my 03 Avalon is always over 2K on the highway, but I usually drive at least 70. HOpefully I can remember to try 60 and see what mine is today at lunch
You've got to stop assuming, as you're proving the adage.
Get the spec for RPM at 60 mph.
Look at the Toyota recommended maint schedule for your car. For mine, tranny fluid changes are not on the "normal" maint schedule. Personally, I do mine at 30k, but don't assume a dealer's doing something extra when he's the one paying for it.
Well, now another update. I have yet to do anything else because my time has been limited.
However, I notice that the transmission is now up-shifting at higher RPMs than before, almost like it's not in "D" but in "2" or "3" (or "L", whatever it is). Whereas it usually made shifts around 2k, it's waiting until 2.5k to make the shift. Same thing on the way down.
Also, the shifts, while not harsh, seem a tad rougher. This is only the case when you're accelerating just enough to trigger the up-shift. If you're accelerating fast the shifts feel flawless.
No check engine light. I went to Autozone and had them hook up the computer to verify - no codes stored in computer.
Also, gas mileage has decreased significantly. I've been monitoring the current tank of gas (almost depleted) and I'd say I'm going to average 18-20MPG on mostly freeway driving. I'm normally at 27-28MPG.
Last edited by josephmama; 07-19-2010 at 01:31 PM.
Sorry if I'm being difficult with this issue - just trying to organize my thoughts in this thread.
Here is the ultimate sequence of issues I experienced leading up to where I'm at now:
1.) Just randomly, out of the blue, car would not start due to a depleted battery. Put it on charger, fired it up, drove it around, life was good.
2.) 2 weeks later, battery was dead again. Went to Walmart, bought new battery, installed it at home. Positive terminal showed some corrosion (blue powdery substance) but otherwise looked okay
3.) 1 week later, wife was driving around and car wouldn't start (again). Got a jump, took it to Walmart. They re-installed a new battery, scrubbed up all the wires, put some type of battery-spray on cable-ends and battery terminals - battery issues stopped at this point
4.) 1 week later, car would start but would not stay on without holding foot on accelerator. I assumed the problem was a dirty IACV based on info from this forum. I thoroughly cleaned this part and reassembled.
5.) The following day, an issue immediately cropped up. While accelerating, when I took my foot off the gas, the RPMs would take a sharp dip and then rise back up to the "normal" coasting RPMs. The problem disappeared after a day. Everything was operating as normal.
6.) About 2 weeks after all that, I noticed that the car did not feel like it was shifting into overdrive. To me, the evidence was the RPMs at 60MPH (which were in excess of 2k, normally around 1.5k). I've seen it happen before where the car would not shift into overdrive around 50-55mph but as soon as I got up to 65MPH it would upshift. Gas mileage obviously decreased, proof that the car is either not shifting into final gear or engine is being over-worked.
7.) Did a tranny flush using Dexron VI. Also, did a negative battery cable pull for good measure. RPMs were still too high at 60MPH - over 2k. Still experiencing the decreased fuel effiency. About a week after the tranny flush, it seems that the car is now waiting too long to shift. Whereas most shifts occurred around 2k RPMs, the tranny is now shifting at 2.5k - 2.75k RPMs.
Either the car is not hitting overdrive, or the engine is spinning way too fast in the top gear. Also, I now have a lovely shifting issue post-flush. Perhaps I misdiagnosed to begin with...
Sorry if I'm being difficult with this issue - just trying to organize my thoughts in this thread.
Here is the ultimate sequence of issues I experienced leading up to where I'm at now:
1.) Just randomly, out of the blue, car would not start due to a depleted battery. Put it on charger, fired it up, drove it around, life was good.
2.) 2 weeks later, battery was dead again. Went to Walmart, bought new battery, installed it at home. Positive terminal showed some corrosion (blue powdery substance) but otherwise looked okay
3.) 1 week later, wife was driving around and car wouldn't start (again). Got a jump, took it to Walmart. They re-installed a new battery, scrubbed up all the wires, put some type of battery-spray on cable-ends and battery terminals - battery issues stopped at this point
4.) 1 week later, car would start but would not stay on without holding foot on accelerator. I assumed the problem was a dirty IACV based on info from this forum. I thoroughly cleaned this part and reassembled.
5.) The following day, an issue immediately cropped up. While accelerating, when I took my foot off the gas, the RPMs would take a sharp dip and then rise back up to the "normal" coasting RPMs. The problem disappeared after a day. Everything was operating as normal.
6.) About 2 weeks after all that, I noticed that the car did not feel like it was shifting into overdrive. To me, the evidence was the RPMs at 60MPH (which were in excess of 2k, normally around 1.5k). I've seen it happen before where the car would not shift into overdrive around 50-55mph but as soon as I got up to 65MPH it would upshift. Gas mileage obviously decreased, proof that the car is either not shifting into final gear or engine is being over-worked.
7.) Did a tranny flush using Dexron VI. Also, did a negative battery cable pull for good measure. RPMs were still too high at 60MPH - over 2k. Still experiencing the decreased fuel effiency. About a week after the tranny flush, it seems that the car is now waiting too long to shift. Whereas most shifts occurred around 2k RPMs, the tranny is now shifting at 2.5k - 2.75k RPMs.
Either the car is not hitting overdrive, or the engine is spinning way too fast in the top gear. Also, I now have a lovely shifting issue post-flush. Perhaps I misdiagnosed to begin with...
Do this. Disconnect your battery. Take out your intake hoses and box. After that, look beneath your throttle body where the IACV valve is. There is a black cover(the electric part of the IACV) there that is being held on with two bolts. Disconnect the wire and unscrew the two bolts. You will see a copper washer in there, see if it is bent. If it is bent straighten it out (don't lose it). Twist and turn that head gear or whatever you call it to see if it turns smoothly, if it doesn't turn smoothly, do the next step. Take out the hose that is connected to the lower IACV. Spray some electric cleaner into the hole that is in between the left throttle body flap while twisting the head gear. The head gear will turn smoothly after you clean it. Reassemble everything.
Spray some electric cleaner into the hole that is in between the left throttle body flap while twisting the head gear. The head gear will turn smoothly after you clean it. Reassemble everything.
Well, I already cleaned the IACV by completely removing it from the car and making sure that the valve/gate spun back and forth freely. Is this what you are having me do with this procedure?
Also, are you referring to the bypass hole immediately above the IACV, just before the right throttle body flap?
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It worked fine until I fixed it! 
Linear Mode
