2003 Avalon transmission oil

[daengmei]

Just changed the filter and put in oil. The parts shop gave me 5 qts but I put in 4 and checked. It is very difficult to read on the stick. I see full at the cold level marks but there is additional oil along the stick with some clear, non oiled spots up to and just over the hot markings. I let the engine warm a few minutes, worked the trans in reverse and forward several minutes more and get the same thing. I'm thinking that since I'm seeing a thick coating at the cold mark and only a very thin coating (with the clear spots) higher up that 4 was maybe a little too much. Should I measure the oil I've taken out? Any advice on what I'm seeing would be helpful.

Edit: Actually 2003, keypunch error

[ChiTDI]

Are you doing trans or engine oil and filter?
5 is right for the engine. 4 is overfill by a little amount in my trans even when I open both drain plugs.

[daengmei]

I do appreciate the answer but when you don't see what I've already stated, how can I feel comfortable when I read your reply? And what is this 2 drain plugs? I took the pan off the bottom of the transmission...to replace the filter. Yes I cleaned off the old cork, cleaned the pan and magnets and torqued the 10mm bolts. Having done many fluid changes of dozens of vehicles, I always stop a qt. short of whatever is called for to start checking the level. I'm not about to buy a service manual for a vehicle that I don't own and parts store computer said 5 qts for a change, 8 for service. I figured this 8 might have been if the torque converter was emptied.

Again I appreciate your answer, it just doesn't make me warm and fuzzy.

[buchaja]

I just joined the forum so I could get some information about the transmission also. I have an '03 too, and I can't get an accurate fill-level read off the dip-stick to save my life!

First, a couple of comments:

My local dealership's parts guy swore to me that there was no filter in my Avalon's tranny. I guess you found otherwise, and I thought I had found replacements for them when I did an online search a while back.

He also says a "spill and fill" is all that's required since, according to him, there is no filter to be serviced; 4 quarts at $6 apiece (Toyota).

Now, questions:

Two drain plugs? Really? Please elaborate.

And, regarding the fill level. Sitting level, engine off, cold (parked overnight) My dip-stick reads well above the HOT mark. Is this normal?

With the engine running (hot or cold, doesn't matter), I cannot read the level. So, anyone have any tips?

All help appreciated, and Hello to everyone.

[daengmei]

17 or 19 bolts (can't remember and they ask for number of bolts at the parts store...AdvanceAuto) were on the pan of mine and indeed there is a filter. Now there is probably more than 1 type transmission used so maybe the parts fellow is correct. I can only find 1 drain plug, the pan has to come off for filter change. A proper owners manual will show what the service intervals are and should indicate filter at some mileage interval, and will indicate exactly which models of that vehicle the change applies to.

Now as far as oil level, most transmission oil levels will show well above the marks when the engine is off. It should be started and allowed to run a few minutes and then pull the stick, clean off and recheck. This should show at least oil to the cold marks. If you don't see any oil, that's not good. You really need the owners manual or a maintenance manual to confirm the correct procedure. I have heard some autos need the trans oil checked while off, but not sure of the types.

If there's no oil on that stick after it's running a few minutes don't drive it till you're sure of how to check, transmission damage is not cheap to fix.

Also, I don't know what your experience may be, but changing the trans oil filter is fairly simple. Putting those bolts back in can be a problem. They are so small and the transmission body is aluminum. You can tighten these beyond proper torque so easily that stripping them occurs. Then you will have a constant leak. Without a proper torque wrench it's iffy for most. A maintenance manual will also have a tightening sequence for the bolts which is to ensure the gasket stays flat while tightening. If it gets a "pucker" along it's length, a very bad leak can occur.

[buchaja]

Thanks for the tips. I'm comfortable wrenching on the car, so I'll drop the pan and replace the filter if I have one. Then I might try pulling the lines and doing a DIY flush like talked about here and on other forums. That should get me nice clean fluid and be good for several more years. I plan on keeping this car for the long haul. It's a great car.

Good to know about the dip-stick showing above full when cold and not running. It's our main vehicle and driven daily, and it definitely has oil in the tranny, I just find it very hard to read the level accurately. It looks solidly covered to above the COLD mark and splotchy and splattered above and beyond the HOT level, just like you described in your OP.

I need to inspect the timing belt, and maybe replace that as well. Then a coolant flush and that will be about all for good while.

And to any one else reading this; I installed the KYB struts this summer, and just got the Michelin MKV4 (?) tires. I let Costco put those on. The struts were a major PIA due almost entirely to the fact I was using those Harbor Freight spring compressors. It worked, and I saved a lot of money doing it myself, but if I ever have to do it again, I'll find another way - I'd still DIY, but I'll take it to someone and have the struts assembled. But, the car rides better than new now and that's what I wanted to let you know. The KYBs are much stiffer, and some may be better served with Monroe's or some other softer shocks, but I like them.

Cheers all

[ChiTDI]

"Just changed the filter and put in oil" doesn't make me feel too comfortable either. Hence the question.
What did the filter consist of?

[bobflood]

Buchaja: Next time you do struts, look for what Monroe calls "quickstruts." They cost more, as they include the coil spring and plates, but they avoid all the difficult (and dangerous) spring compression work. I'll never use spring compressors again if those are available.

[daengmei]

What did the filter consist of?

The filter on this transmission is flat, nearly the size of the pan, and has a very fine mesh strainer to keep particles that may be in the pan from being pulled into the transmission. This one was metal and is held in place by 10mm bolts. Maybe its actually called a strainer. It doesn't collect like other paper/fiber type filters do. Maybe it only needs changed if the mesh becomes clogged. Since the owner bought it, I replaced it. I have seen others that are plastic.

Anybody yet have a book recommended amount of oil to put back in once it's been drained? Or an answer for the difficult to read stick?


Edit: I just found this about the stick being hard to read, but I would still like the book listed amount for the oil.
1996 Avalon transmission oil dip stick

[buchaja]

My Haynes manual says 3.7 qts. drain and refill for the V6 engine with automatic transaxle. I can't find any information about it in the owner's manual.

Just reading through the procedure there does indeed seem to be two drain plugs on some models. Haynes says, on some Avalons, there is an automatic transaxle and a differential. They are seperate units and must be serviced individually. The oil capacity menitoned above is for the "transaxle", or what we are usally refering to as the transmission. The differential is drained and then refilled until oil runs out the filler hole, just like the old ones on rear wheel drive cars or my truck.

Hope that helps.

[daengmei]

What I've experienced in the past still haunts me, glad I stopped at 4. Thanks for that info.