I have read some previous posts regarding DTC codes PO300, 302, 304, 306 and 1354, which I have on my avalon and with the same symptoms.
300 - multiple missfire
302 - misfire on 2 cylinder
304 - misfire on 4 cylinder
306 - misfire on 6 cylinder
1354 - VVTi malfunction on bank 2.
Many have said that the Oil control valve and filter is the culprit. Tried to remove the ocv to test, but it only comes out half way, can anyone tell me if I should spin the ocv around and pull or is there something that might be holdng it other than the 10mm bolt. Don't want to end up breaking it like some of the horror stories i've heard.
Are cylinders 2,4 and 6 on the same side? Something common to the three cylinders would be the culbert, I would guess. Have you check the wires to the 2,4, and 6 cylinders?
yes changed plugs, now I'm having problems with the brakes. Seems when the engine is cold the car runs good and then after it warms up it starts to sputter and misfire while driving and at a stop light. I got the OCV out and cleaned it, checked resistance and it was in specs. so now I am stumped.
Sorry I do not know what to do other than to look in a service called alldata that garages use to get repair info. I can look the info up for you next week as I traveling now.
What's the service history? Oil change intervals. Was the timing belt changed recently? Did you check for sludge? Was the OCV filter clean? Did you put engine cleaner in the crankcase? (DON'T!)
__________________ It worked fine until I fixed it!
I was thinking of your problem. Another way is to spend about $100 at Advance Auto to buy the MIL reader which has the procedures to trace the problem and proceddures for each code showing. I heard about the code reader on a TV show, so I am not really sure of the cost and if it really exists.
Maun, thanks for your replies, just got back from vacation also. I have a Mil reader which is basic just gives the codes with the meaning.
Service history - Oil changes every 3000 - 4000 miles using synthetic 5w30, timing and alternator and PS belts change about 6000 miles back, yes also cleaned the OCV filter. Never used any type of engine cleaner and don't plan to.
I've been looking all over the web for this issue and read a post a while back about the vvti actuator which could be an issue also, now we start looking at bigger issues.
Marly,
According to Kegunder, the problem is more than likely the oil control valvle affecting the bank two according to the following:
I just came back from the trip and so far I have put 160 miles with the new OCV. No MLI and I think a worn out OCV was the root cause of all the codes. Makes sense the P1354 = "Bank-2 VVTi malfunction, and the other codes are that their are misfires specifically in CY2, CY4 and CY 6, which are the cylinders in Bank 2. From all the places I looked the P1354 is usually caused by either a malfunctioning OCV or a clogged OCV filter. In my case (151,000 miles) the OCV will work when the engine is cold, but after warm up the solenoid OHM resistance must be bad, and their is not the proper amount of oil entering the sprocket/actuator of the VVT. Thank you csaxon, you got me started on the right path. Ke, I would suggest checking for a clogged OCV filter, but I think it will be clean.Then the most likely other thing causing the codes is a worn out OCV. Tomorrow I will get the sales slip and give you the exact part number for the Bank 2 OCV. The parts diagram at the dealership was very confusing, and if you order the OCV for Bank 1, it won't fit. The bracket for the hold down bolt is positioned on a different part of the OCV for Bank 1.
The oil control valve is the common part to to causing the DTCs on your MIL. Hopefully if I have the problem I will remember the fix.
Hi Norman,
The part number for the Bank 2 Oil Control Valve is 15340-0A010. This part lists for $78.97 which is pretty reasonable all things considered. Although I would rather pay $150 for a part that would never malfunction in the first place, but it is what it is. I am chasing the exact same group of codes for a customers car and will be installing this valve in it tomorrow. I am hopeful I have the same results as you.
Take care,
Doug
Gary Smith at Toyota of Newman in GA can furnish the Toyota parts at a discount. Gary is frequently on this board as well. His number during business hours is 770 502 1333.
Hi Marly, I was working on a customers car that had the exact same Trouble Codes that your car has. It was a 2000 Avalon and I inspected the small screen that is in the end of the head and it was perfectly clean. I changed out the Oil Control Valve and turned off the Check Engine Light. The light has not come back on in 3 days time now, so I am very optimistic this solved the problem.
The trouble with checking the coil resistance is that it may be just fine when it is cold, but once the engine heats up, the thermal expansion can cause the coil resistance to change, and in the worst case scenario, it can actually cause a connection to break internally. So the Oil Control Valve may bench test just fine, but then fail once it is put into service operational conditions. I suggest that you change the valve out, clear the codes and drive the car.
This repair fixed my issues with this car. The best of luck with yours and take care.
Well everyone, just wanted to give an update, and thanks to all your replys, so after 2 weeks of kicking the car and beating it with a hammer, I took all your advice and went out and bought the Oil Control Valve, and presto no more trouble, been a week now and its been driving great. I did however needed to change the cam assembly because it too was sticking. Cost for parts was about $250 (camm assembly and OCV). So take everyones advice here, if your car throws out these codes, CHANGE THE OIL CONTROL VAVLE FIRST.
Thanks again all.
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