95k miles. pretty sure the timing belt has not been replaced yet. probably taking it in to have it done. can someone please tell me everything else i should have included when i do bring it in? water pump, other belts, etc, any other preventive maintenance? i know i could probably do a search but thanks anyways in advance.
If they are doing the timing belt you might as well have the water pump done along with all of the other belts. They're all there together on the 1MZ-FE. (and many other engines) Check the air filter, if the last oil change is unknown go ahead and do that. Check the cabin air filter, ect. Also I've been told it's recommended to replace the PCV valve with a new OEM one.
If they are doing the timing belt you might as well have the water pump done along with all of the other belts. They're all there together on the 1MZ-FE. (and many other engines) Check the air filter, if the last oil change is unknown go ahead and do that. Check the cabin air filter, ect. Also I've been told it's recommended to replace the PCV valve with a new OEM one.
Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that when i do bring it in, i know exactly what tell them i want done.
Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that when i do bring it in, i know exactly what tell them i want done.
I'd have the cam seals replaced also. When the heads are exposed they are right there and you won't have oil leaks. They're cheap.
Also mention to the tech to give you a report on the absence/presence of sludge when those valve covers are pulled. Get the right guy and give him your digital camera for a few pix if he's in agreement and camera capable.
I should have stated first that the water pump, both accessory belts, the PCV as previously stated, all should be done with the TB. Maintenance filters, etc as others said. I have a fuel filter (in the engine bay) that I get changed every 30-40k as well. Don't know if there is one on the '03.
I'd have the cam seals replaced also. When the heads are exposed they are right there and you won't have oil leaks. They're cheap.
Also mention to the tech to give you a report on the absence/presence of sludge when those valve covers are pulled. Get the right guy and give him your digital camera for a few pix if he's in agreement and camera capable.
Good call on the cam seals. Also, the crankshaft seal... something else you REALLY don't want to have to go back and do later if you let it slide this time.
thanks guys. how about spark plugs? i know the back 3 are a pain. i also own a sienna so maybe i should give it a shot. should i be fine with draining and filling coolant, tranny fluid, power steering, and any other fluids myself. not a mechanic but should be able to do all the simple things. i pretty much want to get caught up and get whatever is needed out of the way now.
All of the fluids you mentioned are really easy to change
Coolant: There is a drain plug (looks like a white wing nut) on the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator. You can reach it from the top (just be careful if you just drove your car. the manifold right there will be hot!) You will get about a gallon of coolant that way.
PS Fluid: If you have a little pump you can easily extract the old fluid right from the canister under the hood. You will probably only need about a half quart or so of PS Fluid.
Trans: You can easily get under the car and pull the drain plug and get a few quarts. Just make sure to measure what you get and re-add that exact amount. You can start the car and shift through all the gears a few times and repeat a couple times if you would like. It is much safer than doing a Trans Flush if you don't know when the last time the fluid was changed. You could do some real damage that way. I ended up draining four times and still did not have all clean fluid coming out. I now do one drain and fill each time I change my oil to keep new fluid in it. Is that a little overboard??? maybe but my transmission does shift a lot smoother since I started doing that. (mine does have 131k on it.)
You might also want to bleed your brakes just to be safe. Synthetic DOT 3 fluid is pretty cheap at your local auto store and is a great replacement. There are instruction guides in the forum for that and it will only take you about 30-45 min max.
It bears repeating that it is generally better to put the extra couple of dollars into the high quality fluids on a high mileage vehicle... that is just my personal opinion
Transmission and Power Steering use the same fluid: Dexron III Transmission Fluid.
Toyota Red LLC is what you need, and a gallon of Distilled water. Mix them 50/50.
If the transmission fluid is dark and dirty, get cheap SuperTech ATF drain and refill until red. THEN use some good fluid, like Mobil-1 full synthetic or a blend. Don't forget to drop the pan and replace the filter once the fluid is clean. (Wix filter kit is $20 at Oreilly)
Good call on the cam seals. Also, the crankshaft seal... something else you REALLY don't want to have to go back and do later if you let it slide this time.
Talked to a couple dealers today. Pretty much all the same at around $600 and that's only timing belt, water pump, and other belts. Asked about the seals and they said all together, that'd be around $800 but they'd have to look and see if i even needed them. Does this sound about right?
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It worked fine until I fixed it! 
1999 Toyota Avalon
(Wix filter kit is $20 at Oreilly)
Linear Mode
