I recently registered to this forum even though I've been regularly reading some information.
I recently purchased a toyota avalon 2000 and a month late my check engine light poped up with the following codes: P1150 and P1155
The print out from autozone suggest it is bank 1 sensor 2 after reading in the forums on some places I read that this is the downstream sensor below the passenger seat so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. CLE came back on after I cleared it. After some more reading other people suggested is the sensor behind the engine so I replaced this one two.
With 2 brand new sensors I still get the CLE shall I invest another $180 and replace the last sensor?
Any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I haven't noticed a difference in the gas millage so far, but this CLE light has to go out and I will do whatever it take to remove cause it is very unpleasant plus the VSC does not function when having codes.
I recently registered to this forum even though I've been regularly reading some information.
I recently purchased a toyota avalon 2000 and a month late my check engine light poped up with the following codes: P1150 and P1155
The print out from autozone suggest it is bank 1 sensor 2 after reading in the forums on some places I read that this is the downstream sensor below the passenger seat so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. CLE came back on after I cleared it. After some more reading other people suggested is the sensor behind the engine so I replaced this one two.
With 2 brand new sensors I still get the CLE shall I invest another $180 and replace the last sensor?
Any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I haven't noticed a difference in the gas millage so far, but this CLE light has to go out and I will do whatever it take to remove cause it is very unpleasant plus the VSC does not function when having codes.
Any input will be very appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Bank 1 is the bank at the rear of the engine compartment; sensor 2 is the "downstream" or farthest down O2 sensor.
Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Here are what the codes mean. Since you are getting both the range code and the heater code, you should check the wiring harness and plug to make sure they are not broken/burnt/melted. Did you get both the same codes back? Also, did you get a "generic" sensor that you had to wire in, or one made to fit that plug?
First of all a big thanks for everyones' quick answers very much appreciated....
So the sensors I replaced are: the one under the pass. seat and the one behind the engine.
From what I am reading from you replies you are suggesting that the sensor that actually needs to be changed is the one on the very front by the radiator, am I correct?
The codes I've got read bank 1 sensor 2 is that the front sensor.
Also after changed the two sensors I cleared the code the only code that came back is P1155
Can you guys help me conclude what to change I am $300 poorer so I guess will be shopping for the last sensor and the only one that is still old and changed.
Is ebay a good place/cheaper to find the sensor and what part number am I looking for to be certain I am getting the right one.
Auto-zones print out from the scanner suggested it bank 1 sensor 2 are they wrong ?
Kminev: Yes, it appears that Autozone is wrong; and I found the same wrong information on the internet. The fact that you already replaced the two "Bank 1" sensors w/o fixing your problem supports that conclusion. Csaxon is correct - your codes indicate Bank 2 Sensor 1, which is the one in his picture. If you want to try and confirm this, call your Toyota dealer service department, give them the codes, and ask them what they mean.
If you want to go to the trouble, and you still have the old parts, you could take the new sensors out, return them to Autozone, tell them they did not fix your problem, and get your money back. Then get the sensor to replace Bank 2 Sensor 1 at the front of the engine.
Good luck, and let us know when you finally resolve this.
Hey, I just wanted to post what worked on my 2000 Avalon. The scanner was saying oxygen sensor bank 1 but after changing the sensor I still had the check engine light. So, I cleaned the mass air flow sensor which worked for a few days. Then I changed the mass air flow sensor and....Bingo. I know it's an expensive part to buy but it worked for me it the same situation your in. Hope this helps.
I did clean my MAF sensor also changed the PCV valve did not do a difference with the check engine. I returned the bosh sensors and will order a denso one for bank 2 sensor 1 and see what happens. I will keep you posted if worse comes to worse I will look into MAF sensor ouch
thanks for everyone's feedback I will keep you posted after I replace the bank2 sen 1 sensor
Hey kminev,
Your problem is similar to mine, except my code came up as P0155
(O2 sensor, heater circuit, Bank 2 Sensor 1) posted a few weeks ago.
Not sure why you got the Manufacturer specific code (P1155), and my reader gave me the generic code. You probably should invest in a code reader. You can get a decent one at Harbor Frieght, wait for a sale.
I think csaxon is right about interchangability. Even if you don't order from them, RockAuto has a great web-catalog where you can check which sensors are the same.
From memory the upstream ones have the added heater element (4 wire), but I could be wrong about that detail.
This is a terrific forum, and the lack of postings show how reliable these cars are. Good luck.
Toyota uses P113x and P115x for air-fuel ratio sensors, or wideband O2 sensors. These have been used on the 1MZ since CA emissions were added to the 1MZ in 1998. For model year 2001, all vehicles are CA emissions regardless of state (50 state emissions).
If you receive P013x and/or P015x, then you have normal O2 sensors, or narrowband lambda sensors. The post-catalyst sensors are always of this type.
__________________
1991 Toyota MR2 V6
Ported, rebuilt 3.0L 1MZ
Fully OBDII compliant and California smog legal
Thanks Jason:
Not sure what I have (wide or narrow O2) but the Denso new part# was same as what came out. Funny thing was that my MPG did not go down for the tank full that I had the Check engine light up. I wonder if the "heater circuit" in the O2 is only important during warm-up?!?
Here's a link on O2's (lots'a text; no pictures; I could only read half way! )
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