Ironing out questions: Changing Timing Belt, Water Pump, Valve Cover seals and more. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

avalonshoe · 12-15-2011, 12:38 AM

In the morning, I plan to change the belt, the idler pulley, tensioner bearing, hydraulic tensioner, crankshaft seal, cam shaft seal, water pump, P/S and S-belts; valve cover seals.

I checked around videos of the 1MZFE timing belt change and it looks simple enough to line up all the timing marks TDC. I have the mitsuboshi belt with timing marks on it already. The major concern I have is replacing the cam and crankshaft seals.

1. I plan to start on the valve covers first and leave the valve covers open so that i can lock the cams once i get all the alignment on the timing belt lined up. Is this a good idea?

2. Assuming I'm not replacing the valve cover seals, and remove the cam gears to replace cam seals, how would i know where to put it back? (I think there is a sprocket to keep it in place?).

3. Cam and crankshaft seals just need to be oiled on the ID and OD before reinstallation?

4.. How would I get coolant in the block after reinstalling the new waterpump if the thermostat isn't open? (a mechanic said via vacuum method but I wasn't sure)

pmesfun · 12-15-2011, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avalonshoe

In the morning, I plan to change the belt, the idler pulley, tensioner bearing, hydraulic tensioner, crankshaft seal, cam shaft seal, water pump, P/S and S-belts; valve cover seals.

I checked around videos of the 1MZFE timing belt change and it looks simple enough to line up all the timing marks TDC. I have the mitsuboshi belt with timing marks on it already. The major concern I have is replacing the cam and crankshaft seals.

1. I plan to start on the valve covers first and leave the valve covers open so that i can lock the cams once i get all the alignment on the timing belt lined up. Is this a good idea?

2. Assuming I'm not replacing the valve cover seals, and remove the cam gears to replace cam seals, how would i know where to put it back? (I think there is a sprocket to keep it in place?).

3. Cam and crankshaft seals just need to be oiled on the ID and OD before reinstallation?

4.. How would I get coolant in the block after reinstalling the new waterpump if the thermostat isn't open? (a mechanic said via vacuum method but I wasn't sure)

1. Yup, that's what I did, you will need two people to do this though.

2.There is a notch so they only go on one way.

3.I used a little bit of wheel bearing grease, and since you will have the valve covers off, remove the cam bearing caps and you should have no problems. For the crank seal you will just have to drive it in as straight as possible, not that hard.

4. I guess you could remove the thermostat, not sure.

avalonshoe · 12-16-2011, 06:26 AM

THANKS. I'm pretty novice with this stuff.

3. I'm just afraid that after i crank the case to line up the marks but while removing the cam gears that it will move. If the gear lunges forward (clockwise), i can turn it counterclock wise to get it lined up again without any problems?

4. I checked again after removing the upper radiator hose. I'm not exactly sure, but it looks there's an inlet to fill both the radiator and the block from the radiator cap. Looks like the radiator inlet was modified (higher mounted position) for 2000+ avalon.

avalonshoe · 12-23-2011, 02:12 AM

I'm stuck at the crankshaft seal. I don't understand how to remove the sprocket or to access the crankshaft seal without taking the oil pump off.. Should i change the oil pump seal also?

pmesfun · 12-23-2011, 02:17 AM

The oil pump seal and crank seal are the same thing. Did you remove the sprocket keeper tab thing? After that the sprocket just pull off. The seal is right there.

avalonshoe · 12-29-2011, 10:15 PM

Thanks, it took bout 6 hours to get the sprocket off, it was rusted onto the driveshaft. I had to use a mini harmonic puller to get it out.

I have a problem though, While trying to install my timing belt my rear cam leaped forward a quarter turn when I was trying to align the mark. Can i turn the cam back? I hope I dont have to pull off the valve cover again =/

I also just stripped the thread on the No.1 ilder pulley on the engine block by forgetting the swivel washer on the backend of the bolt. I'm chasing the threads now =/

maun · 01-03-2012, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avalonshoe

Thanks, it took bout 6 hours to get the sprocket off, it was rusted onto the driveshaft. I had to use a mini harmonic puller to get it out.

I have a problem though, While trying to install my timing belt my rear cam leaped forward a quarter turn when I was trying to align the mark. Can i turn the cam back? I hope I dont have to pull off the valve cover again =/

I also just stripped the thread on the No.1 ilder pulley on the engine block by forgetting the swivel washer on the backend of the bolt. I'm chasing the threads now =/

Yes, you can turn the cam back. anyway I did and the car is working well. It is very frustrating when the Cam pops out of position. In case you have not accomplished the installing the timing belt, using tie downs will hold the belt in position of the two cams and crankshaft. You need to be very careful always checking for the correct marks between the belt cams and crankshaft. You need to cut the tie downs off after you installed the belt and before turning the car on. Once you get the timing belt installed, you can test the installation by starting the engine for less than say two minutes by running off the battery to be sure the installation is ok instead of putting all the parts together and finding out something is wrong. You will be able to tell by the sound of the engine. I have seen other tips on timing belt installation and they can be accessed by doing a search on Toyotanation as a whole.

I do not have any suggestlons on the strip threads other than there are tools to mend threads.
hope this helps,
Norman

avalonshoe · 01-07-2012, 06:33 PM

Thanks Norman and pmesfun, i put everything back together. I did exactly that, which has to run the engine on the battery.

It was a pain to get the belt on but i had the mitsuboshi belt which had markings on them. I lined up the marks and adjusted the cams a little to get the belt on then move the rear cam back at TDC. Everything seems ok? I drove for six hours without any problems. It idles better than before (in park and in drive).

The only thing I'm not sure of is that, if the belt is off by one tooth or two off, what can i expect to see?

maun · 01-07-2012, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avalonshoe

Thanks Norman and pmesfun, i put everything back together. I did exactly that, which has to run the engine on the battery.

It was a pain to get the belt on but i had the mitsuboshi belt which had markings on them. I lined up the marks and adjusted the cams a little to get the belt on then move the rear cam back at TDC. Everything seems ok? I drove for six hours without any problems. It idles better than before (in park and in drive).

The only thing I'm not sure of is that, if the belt is off by one tooth or two off, what can i expect to see?

Congratuations on getting the car back together.

I do not know about any ill effects if the timing is one tooth off. I suppose if your car is accelerating and idling correctly, you are ok. You could also check the tiiming with a scanner from maybe Advance Auto if you do not have one.

I need to learn a procedure from you. What did you use to remove and install the cam seal from the cam nearest to the firewall? There is not much room for a tool; so my friends told me to leave the seal alone if it is not leaking.
Your info will appreciated.

Norman

pmesfun · 01-07-2012, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maun

I need to learn a procedure from you. What did you use to remove and install the cam seal from the cam nearest to the firewall? There is not much room for a tool; so my friends told me to leave the seal alone if it is not leaking.
Your info will appreciated.

Thin long flathead, puncture the seal in the middle and pry it out, apply grease when installing and it should go in fine.

avalonshoe · 01-08-2012, 03:51 PM

I used this: Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller <http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K>

I know it is a special purpose tool but i got it off of advance auto with the $50 off $100 discount. I used it for the cam seal, crank seal, and even the spark plug tube seals (which was probably not it's intended use). I think it took about 10 mins to get all the seals out with no damage or marring of any engine components. Saved me a lot of frustration and will work with the rear cam seals easily. The old seals will break when you remove them.