So I'm doing my firsts oil change on my used Avalon. Went to use the Oil Filter tool and it just slips as you go to unscrew(counter clockwise) the housing.It is the right size tool.
Any advice on how else I can get it off. I dont want to crack the unit by cranking on it.
I had an assenmaker plastic tool and that just slipped. Got a metal one and the 3/8 square broke off and the metal one acted as if it was rounding off as I was turning it. I will try another one and put some steel wool in it to take up the slack. It dosent seem to be a relaxing oil change and tire rotation day.
I just got this car about 6 weeks ago and it dosent seem like the dealer did anything as far as service to the car .
I can't believe anyone would tighten the housing so tight with an o-ring seal. Their is a torque spec on this housing. I know Toyota sells a tool for oil housing removal also.
Steel wool is a good idea. I dont know if you have enough room to put a rubber strap wrench on the housing also.
I use a cheater extension on my rachet also if I need to. Hopefully the wool will help the slipping problem which I know is a typical Toyota oil housing problem. I bought 10 oil changes for $160 when I bought my 08 Highlander but I change my 05 Avalon oil unless the dealer has a monthly special.
Cross-threading A Possibilty On '06 And Greater Models.
I'm Not Sure About Overtightening One Of These As The Top Of The Cannister Stops Against The Engine Housing. Not The Same Arrangement As Your Usual Nut/bolt Situation.
Are you turning a 3/8 ratchet plugged into the little disc, or are you turning the fluted cup wrench?
Filter body w/ cup wrench - 25 Nm
Cap seal w/ratchet - 12.5 Nm
I hope the installers are not replacing the element and then sealing the filter by spinning on the body and then torquing the little disc to 25 Nm with a 3/8 ratchet wrench. Yikes.
I did the first oil change on my car a few weekends ago, i could not get get the disc out of the housing. first it felt like th 3/8" plug was going to strip, then the whole housing just turned off. It was a messy job, and sprayed out the housing the best I could with some brake clean then let it dry out.
I like the idea of being for environmentally friendly but this housing thing is a little bit of a pain in the ass.
when i changed the oil in my '05 for the first time i had the same prob. the drain plug came out easy, but i broke 2 filter wrenches on the housing before finding one that would do the job. since then with normal tightening of the housing, i've had no problem.
I've changed the oil twice on my 2006 Avalon. I have yet to get the drain plug out of the canister. Both times I tried restraining the canister while trying to turn the plug with a 3/8 drive. I have hesitated to get too violent because of the possibility of breaking the die cast canister. My dealer has refused to fix under warrenty. Anyone have any suggestions??
To address the original subject of this thread, the canister positively bottoms out and the O-ring does the sealing.
Just finished the 8th oil change on my '05 and have had this happen several times.
If the entire housing turns whan I try to remove the cap, I just slide my drain pan under the cast housing, and then spin it a couple of turns, until it can be twisted by hand. Another turn or 2 and a most of the oil that was in the housing will drain. Finally, twist the filter off (plastic gloves or a plastic grocery bag is helpful) and dump the remaining contents into your drain pan.
It's really not necessary to remove the cap and drain the oil in the housing. It's just a convenience to make a messy job just a little less messy.
Once the cast housing is removed and empty, have found I can hold it with an inexpensive plastic/rubber strap wrench on a bench and remove the cap.
I bought a used 07 Avalon and changed my oil I needed a 8" piece of pipe as a ratchet extension to get the plug and housing loose. I used a wal-mart filter wrench that worked ok. I think Toyota took a step backwards with this design as the spin on filter on my 98 Avalon was a cinch to change. The secret is not to over tighten the plug and filter .
as a toyota tech, i can say every tech in the shop (myself included) bitches about these filters....theyre messy, and a huge PIA....
ive found that a 3/8 extension, filter removal tool and alot of upper arm strength is the only true way to remove these things...
i like to put some grease in the threads of the canister housing before reapplying the filter...this prevents it from getting stuck and makes it much easier to remove next time...i do this on every one of my customer's 2GR-FE engines
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