Does anyone use any type of adapters on their two post lifts when lifting Avalon using the factory points which I think are designated by the arrows on the botton sides of the car?
I use ~4"-long pieces of pressure-treated 2x4 lumber with a slot cut in it, with my floor jacks. I jack one side at a time (2 jacks) to rotate the tires. We used to own a Volvo that required the identical adapters.
I would really like them to be make of metal since I will be putting them on a lift that goes quite high. Wood is good and may never split but I'd be more comfortable with metal.
Below is a photo of one I found online that someone made.
Since I could not find what I wanted my friend made some for me.
They are made out of 3" square stainless steel tubing which has 1/4" wall thickness. They will fit on top of the screw up flat top pads on my lift. We had to use 3" square tubing in order to clean the car's rocker panels, car is 2009.
Wow . . . those look like they could lift a tank, and do it in style.
I have a Rotary Asymetrical lift in my garage and it has little ears on the lifting pads that can be flipped up. I normally place those in the upright position and where the arrows indicate on the frame of the car to lift.
I have a Rotary Asymetrical lift in my garage and it has little ears on the lifting pads that can be flipped up. I normally place those in the upright position and where the arrows indicate on the frame of the car to lift.
My lift has the flat top screw up pads and three stage arms in the front, see photos in links. I got those because they work perfectly on Mercedes and Porsche which is pretty much the only kind of cars I work on. I don’t think I can use the flat top pads without some kind of adapter because the don’t fit to the factory liftpoints very well or at all. The arm of the lift will touch the rocker panel. I could just put a hockey puck on the flat point pad but I did not really want the weight of the car on that seam weld but rather on the frame of the car.
When you flip the ears up on your pads exactly what part of the car do they contact? For example do they contact to the left or right of that thin seam weld?
My lift has the flat top screw up pads and three stage arms in the front, see photos in links. I got those because they work perfectly on Mercedes and Porsche which is pretty much the only kind of cars I work on. I don’t think I can use the flat top pads without some kind of adapter because the don’t fit to the factory liftpoints very well or at all. The arm of the lift will touch the rocker panel. I could just put a hockey puck on the flat point pad but I did not really want the weight of the car on that seam weld but rather on the frame of the car.
When you flip the ears up on your pads exactly what part of the car do they contact? For example do they contact to the left or right of that thin seam weld?
Hockey pucks work pretty good! My TT Z06 is lowered so much that I have to drive it on 1x4-2x4 onto Rhino Ramps (front won't even clear the front of the ramp) just to get it high enough to put my lift arms underneath the jacking points. I have to use hockey pucks (also) in order to make contact on the frame so that they don't damage the rocker panels.
It so much easier to jack my Truck.
There are other frame locations on the Avalon that it can be jack'd. I think if you use your hockey pucks in the same fashion that you use on your Porsche you should be ok though on the Avalon. If not the sideways 2x4 should works.
Since I could not find what I wanted my friend made some for me.
They are made out of 3" square stainless steel tubing which has 1/4" wall thickness. They will fit on top of the screw up flat top pads on my lift. We had to use 3" square tubing in order to clean the car's rocker panels, car is 2009.
ron,
Each car unit of our trains weight approximately 40 tons (carbody + trucks). When lifting a train, we generally lift the carbody using overhead cranes. However, there are many instances when hydraulic jacks are used instead, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. Guess what we use between the jack pads and the lifting points on the train? WOOD; not just any type of wood though.
We use 4-inch blocks of maple, oak or ash. These are industry standards set by the AAR (Association of American Railroads).
That’s what I use for my Avalon. My hydraulic jack doesn’t go high enough for my jack stands to slide under the avy’s support points (by the front doors), so the extra 4” wood spacer does the trick.
Finding 4-inch blocks of Class A hardwood may turn out difficult for many people. However, you can go to Home Depot/Lowes and make your own using the 1” thick oak they sell. They can be cut into pieces (8” x 8”) and glued together to achieve the 4” thickness. I did that to a friend and he’s been using the wooden spacers for years without any failure (disclaimer: this procedure is not meant for everyone — you should be fully aware of what you’re doing).
Each car unit of our trains weight approximately 40 tons (carbody + trucks). When lifting a train, we generally lift the carbody using overhead cranes. However, there are many instances when hydraulic jacks are used instead, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. Guess what we use between the jack pads and the lifting points on the train? WOOD; not just any type of wood though.
We use 4-inch blocks of maple, oak or ash. These are industry standards set by the AAR (Association of American Railroads).
That’s what I use for my Avalon. My hydraulic jack doesn’t go high enough for my jack stands to slide under the avy’s support points (by the front doors), so the extra 4” wood spacer does the trick.
Finding 4-inch blocks of Class A hardwood may turn out difficult for many people. However, you can go to Home Depot/Lowes and make your own using the 1” thick oak they sell. They can be cut into pieces (8” x 8”) and glued together to achieve the 4” thickness. I did that to a friend and he’s been using the wooden spacers for years without any failure (disclaimer: this procedure is not meant for everyone — you should be fully aware of what you’re doing).
Amaury
’08 Limited
Thanks that's very interesting. I think do recall seeing wood used as spacers too under very large ships in drydock.
Would you be able to post or otherwise send me a photo of one of your blocks? I can pm you my email address if you like.
Better yet, I’ll post one of the home-made version I did for my friend. Under $20 you can have a reliable wooden spacer for you extra lift that will outlast the service life of your car (read the disclaimer in my previous post).
Next time I go to one of our overhaul shops, even if the trains are not lifted on jack stands I will snap a couple of pictures of the hydraulic jacks and the wood spacers.
Thanks that's very interesting. I think do recall seeing wood used as spacers too under very large ships in drydock.
Would you be able to post or otherwise send me a photo of one of your blocks? I can pm you my email address if you like.
thanks, ron
ron,
I don't have a web link where to send the pics for posting. So, please, if you prefer, let me know an e-mail where to send the pics to. Feel free to post them here.
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