Eyes popped out of my head when I first started searching for spark plugs for wifes '06 Avalon XL - 110K on the clock - 120K spark plug change time - will be here soon.
First site I found had the NGKs at $31.60 ea - $189.60 for all 6 !!!
Finally found a site where the Denso's are $10.79 ea; the NGKs $14.69 ea. and that beats ebay which I don't trust.
Anyone have any opinions about which is better?
My experience with these 2 brand of plugs on other Asian cars/motorcycles was 6 of one; half dozen of the other.
NGK and Denso are pretty much equal to each other. Both are listed in the manual for my car and have use both with no ill effects. On some Toyota truck forums, owners find NGK spark plugs on one side of the engine and Denso on the other side from the factory. Have you check the parts store or dealership? Sometimes they're cheaeper there.
Had my spark plugs replaced not too long ago. Got 128k miles on my 06 avalon. I just took it to the dealership. I paid $185 total for parts and labor. I didn't think that was so bad.
My car came with NGK's and I replaced them with Denso's because they were cheapest for me. $6 each from Toyota of Dallas vs. the $10 NGKs. I haven't felt any difference.
Toyotapartszone has Denso's the cheapest for the 05-up Avalon, $7.50 each.
If you haven't replaced your spark plugs yet. always use Permatex anti-seize on the threads. I was at my buddy's shop, mechanic pulled the spark plugs off a Lexus, one of them came out with the threads. The head technician went through the roof as did the manager. These are little tricks of the trade, but will save you alot of headaches later. Remember, they're aluminum engines and those spark plugs have been setting in there for years. Also, I use silicone spray or electro gel (Permatex) when reintalling the coil (small dad on the inside of the boot.
For sure - anti-seize on the theads and di-lectric grease(a dab) up in the boots/ign coil pack connectors.
Car is at 113,000 - first plug change in the not too distant future. Hope the factory used some lube on the plug threads when the engine was assembled.
Last edited by Mike Murrell; 05-27-2011 at 10:41 AM.
For sure - anti-seize on the theads and di-lectric grease(a dab) up in the boots/ign coil pack connectors.
Car is at 113,000 - first plug change in the not too distant future. Hope the factory used some lube on the plug threads when the engine was assembled.
I have YET to see any factory do this. Just make sure your engine is cold, blow the hole out where spark plug is located (if you have a Vacula or air gun with a long tip BEFORE removing the coil (Any debris in that hole will fall into the combustion chamber upon removing the spark plug
Blow some air around the electrical connection to the coil because there is a small amount of abrasive dust that sometimes doesn't allow the connecter to come out.
We use a longer ratchet to get better leverage (if room allows) and then back out slowly. IF you can see down into the spark plug hole and it's gunky/dirty, shoot some brake cleaner (small amount) or throttle body cleaner, then a shot of air.
When reinstalling, always carefully check your gap, Have found some gaps to be out of range. Seems you've got a good handle on things and you've taken care of your car quite well. I also put some silicone spray on those electrical connectors they clip on well and will remove much better in future if needed. Good luck..
Is it really necessary to have spark plugs replaced? I think I did it long long time ago on my very 1st OLD car. Since then, I have never done it on any car.
When you guys took out the old plugs, how does it compare to the new one? carbon buildup? oil? Or just like new?
Is it really necessary to have spark plugs replaced? I think I did it long long time ago on my very 1st OLD car. Since then, I have never done it on any car.
When you guys took out the old plugs, how does it compare to the new one? carbon buildup? oil? Or just like new?
Electrodes worn down, usually no carbon build up, unless there is a misfire, dirty fuel injectors, oil coming up through valve guide, ect. They just get old and worn, lose their "spark" due to the millions of firings they perform.
I replaced the original ngk plugs at 130k on my 99. They looked very good for their age, electrodes weren't worn down and the gaps were in specs. I don't think they had antiseize, but came out with ease. I noticed no change in MPG, makes me consider running the new ones for another 150k.
Some guys play golf; I work on cars. Both are expensive hobbies, but one is far more essential than the other.
As stated above, the electrode(usually the center one) wears and that widens that gap.
Replaced plugs on my '04 baseline Tacoma a few weeks ago. Gap is set at .032 - checked each plugs gap upon removal. Read approx. .050 in just about all 4 cases. Plugs had around 45,000 miles. Vehicle ran OK but idled maybe a hair smoother afterwards. Maybe the placebo affect was telling me that.
I play on the side of safety and go with the anti-seize and the dielectric grease. I don't think's it a placebo because I've changed out too many spark plugs and then i've been told the throttle response was better, idling and gas mileage. So, for the price that you'll pay. It's much better to change your spark plugs and from my experience, NGK or Denso is the way to go. Never had luck with domestic brands because they don't have the durability (endure the stated mileage)
I don't recall the regular maintenance call for spark plugs replacement. Wouldn't Toyota or the dealer already want to "steal" our money by asking us to do this?
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1999 Toyota Avalon
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