Dealer said "your 90K miles service is coming up next..."
Took my wife's car for oil change @ 87K miles and the guy told me "90K miles service is up next..."
He also pointed out my rear brake is at 3mm and cabin air filter is dirty. I told him I am going to have it done next time when I do my 90K service
Well, in my mind, RIGHT, 90K service, what are you going to do other then checking this, checking that and probably tell my I need brake flush, power steering flush... Seriously, I have no idea what 90K servie on this car other then oil change.
The air filter, I have it at home so I can replace it anytime. The rear brake, probably not that bad so I think I can DIY (if anyone can give me some tip, that will be great even though I had done a front brake pad on older car before, not on the rear)
What other DIY can I do? probably tranny fluid? How can I DIY power steering and brake fluid? Anyone?
It's basically a health check of the car, belts hoses suspension blah blah is supposed to be inspected to make sure it's all in good shape. Nothing a simple DIY'er can't do, but for someone who doesn't know a wrench from a door handle it's usefull for catching faults.
Rear pads, get OEM. They are very similar to the front brakes, remove the caliper slide pins, then pull out the pads.
Clean the slide pins and relube them. Permatex Ceramic Extreme is a good brake lubricant and is sold in small pouches at part stores. You can also use it to lube the pad and shim contact points to prevent squeaks. Install the new pads and you're done.
For the brake fluid, just suck out as much fluid as you can from the reservoir and refill with Dot 3 Brake Fluid, same concept for the power steering. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Refill PS Resevoir with Dexron III ATF.
Rear pads, get OEM. They are very similar to the front brakes, remove the caliper slide pins, then pull out the pads.
Clean the slide pins and relube them. Permatex Ceramic Extreme is a good brake lubricant and is sold in small pouches at part stores. You can also use it to lube the pad and shim contact points to prevent squeaks. Install the new pads and you're done.
For the brake fluid, just suck out as much fluid as you can from the reservoir and refill with Dot 3 Brake Fluid, same concept for the power steering. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Refill PS Resevoir with Dexron III ATF.
thanks for the tip, just ordered the pad (from toyota) and the cabin filter.
So I should get some lube from auto part store to prevent squeak? Also when doing the turkey baster method for brake and power steering, do I have to worry about getting AIR in the system? (never done that before)
Simply replacing the fluid in the brake reservoir does exactly nothing. It does not circulate in the system. Brake fluid needs to be flushed by bleeding at each wheel until the new fluid is visible to do any good.
Removing as much as possible from the PS reservoir will do some good. Basically it mixes a small amount of new fluid with the old. I'd recommend doing it a couple of times to get as much new fluid mixed in as possible.
Most of the maintenance can be done at home by someone with minimal mechanical skills.
Simply replacing the fluid in the brake reservoir does exactly nothing. It does not circulate in the system. Brake fluid needs to be flushed by bleeding at each wheel until the new fluid is visible to do any good.
True, but at that point you might as well pay someone to do it, since you would need a helper and do a alot of pedal pumping or buy a bleeder kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpapa
thanks for the tip, just ordered the pad (from toyota) and the cabin filter.
So I should get some lube from auto part store to prevent squeak? Also when doing the turkey baster method for brake and power steering, do I have to worry about getting AIR in the system? (never done that before)
Yes, they come in small packets, about $3 IIRC. You shouldn't have any problems with getting air in the brake system. If air gets in the PS system, simply turn the wheels lock to lock until all the air is gone.
When I replaced the rear pads on my '05 Avalon, I took photos and did a procedural write-up to refer to the next time. It's a ~1.4M pdf file I can send to you as a message attachment. Use the forum private message system to tell me if and where you would like it sent.
In addition to the pads and high temperature grease recommended by pmesfun, you will need some brake cleaner, rags, and a big C-clamp to retract the caliper piston. Be careful with the caliper pins . . they look identical but are not. Also make note (or take a photo) of how and where the wear indicator is mounted to the pad (and to which pad it mounts). It has to be transferred from the old to the new pads.
I usually flush the brake fluid to each wheel while changing the pads on hat wheel, since the bleeder valve is readily accessible with the wheel and tire removed. I use the gravity method, which does not require a helper, any special tools, or pumping of the pedal. The disadvantages are that it takes 15-30 minutes for each wheel (not a big deal when it takes nearly that long to swap the pads), and you have to check the master cylinder level every couple of minutes and add some fresh fluid to ensure no air gets into the system.
I can see doing the brakes yourself, though at 90k you might actually need new rotors - they do get thin & worn-out.
But as to bleeding the brakes, Sears will do a brake fluid change for $30 or so.
Cheap enough that even I'm willing to let them have the aggravation.
Do change the transmission fluid if never done, it also ages and needs replacement.
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I can see doing the brakes yourself, though at 90k you might actually need new rotors - they do get thin & worn-out.
But as to bleeding the brakes, Sears will do a brake fluid change for $30 or so.
Cheap enough that even I'm willing to let them have the aggravation.
Do change the transmission fluid if never done, it also ages and needs replacement.
.
About the rotors, that's something that I didn't think about. So 90K is a good time for rotors, both front and rear? How do I know if the rotors are still good in general?
what about resurface? Any one? If so, where to take it to for resurface? Brake shop?
About the rotors, that's something that I didn't think about. So 90K is a good time for rotors, both front and rear? How do I know if the rotors are still good in general?
what about resurface? Any one? If so, where to take it to for resurface? Brake shop?
The time to worry about the rotors is when the technician says they've worn to the point they can't be turned during a brake service.
For what it's worth - I'm still on the factory rotors (front and rear) and I'm almost at 130k miles now.
About the rotors, that's something that I didn't think about. So 90K is a good time for rotors, both front and rear? How do I know if the rotors are still good in general?
what about resurface? Any one? If so, where to take it to for resurface? Brake shop?
You should be able to resurface the rotors, especially the rear ones. You can check the thickness of rotor with a micrometer. Auto part stores turn rotors.
Agree to all of the above. Preventive maintenance goes along way. I've checked with service advisors (personal friends) that work at Honda, Nissan and independent import shops. This is what I've done with some of these issues regarding 90K service. Check for oil leaks between oil pan and engine, transmission, output shaft seals. Take white napkin, check transmission fluid. (I did my fluid at 70K changed my filter/ gasket and cleaned out magnets inside transmission pan) SOme garages just do a flush and "cleaning the filter out" using the machine to circulate clean fluid through a dirty filter. I just take it a step further and change out the filter. Rear brakes and pads: Pads usally wear much less than front pads and the brake shoes are only for the parking brakes. Good idea to clean out, I use Simple Green/Purple Cleaner, let it sit for a few minutes and then flush out all the oil.grease, dust with water and used compressed air to clear everything out and then use high-temp grease for the pins and clean the anti-squeal shims (all contact points) Flushing can be done at one of your local import shops, I'd just make sure they actually do bleed all fluid starting at the right rear wheel. SOme garages/shops charge for a flush and only drain the reservoir. If you can do an intake clean/flush, that's a way to clean out all the carbon on the top side of your valves and clean out the intake/plenum from the crankcase residue that gets sucked in through the a breather hose under the ABS portion of your intake system. Any shop using BG products knows about this and IT MAKES a HUGE difference in performance and gas mileage. I do it this service every 15-20,000 miles. THere's alot you can do and $$ you can save before you have to end up spending ALOT of $$$ on things you will need later. BTW, check tire rotation balance and four wheel alignment. Whew..hope that wasn't too much information. Good luck
I have a 17 yr. old SUV with right at 264,000 miles on it.
Original brake rotors on all 4 wheels. Brakes as smooth as it did 17 yrs. ago,
As mentioned above - rotors are gone when a machine shop flunks 'um.
That's great and the mileage of 264,000 usually translates into a very well-maintained vehicle! Probably a very good cast iron rotor...I stay away from any rotor/drum made in China. They're well known for poor materials and recycling their iron/steel.
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1999 Toyota Avalon
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