After just getting my AE back after every cooling system problem you could name, (and a hefty price) my car decides to just die. Could be alt, could be spark... but when checking for fuel, does the 4AGE have an electronic fuel pump? Would I hear it whir up upon ignition turn? Whats the best way to check for fuel at the engine?
Brent
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There are those who do things, and those who take credit... The trick is to be in the first group, there is a lot less compitition.
open up the fuelrail I guess... if it squirts out fuel, then it should be ok. Someone else might have a better suggestion, and I do recommend wearing some goggles and having a fireextinguisher near by, just incase.
there's a little plug running off of the harness which plugs into your AFM. Complete the circuit by bridging those two terminals (stick a piece of wire into both) and you will be giving power to the fuel pump.
Now to check if the engine is getting fuel, crack the nut holding the cold start injector (side of the intake manifold) and you should get a nice spray of fuel all over the place in a mist (unscrew it just a little and very slowly).
If there isn't any fuel being pumped out, then you know you have a problem
Do not leave the Key in the ON postion without the engine running.
If you leave it ON without the engine running for more than a couple minutes, you risk destroying your igniter.
Hemi3TC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Migsman
you'll probably have to have the key in the ON position
I dont understand this. Why is it only if the engine wont start? If the engine will start can you leave it in the on position? I had my stereo on a lot while doing the timing belt, body work etc... my car wont start now, it will turn over and over, and is whining like a little bitch, but no start... could this be an igniter problem?
__________________
There are those who do things, and those who take credit... The trick is to be in the first group, there is a lot less compitition.
3 questions in 1:
The Factory Manual states 10 minutes not 10 seconds in the 1982 Rolla manual.
I suspect it is the transistors that burned out in the igniter. The
Factory manual just gives a warning not to leave the ignition on for more than 10 minutes with no explanation. So I have to suspect the probable reason why there is that warning without having to do a detailed engineering analyst. It is always better to be safe than sorry.
You may have gotten lucky that your battery may have drained enough not to have damaged the igniter or possible drained enough that the main relay cutout when you left your igniton key in the ON position. Or even that you had better quality transistors in your box, all transistor even with the same part number are not exactly the same.
What the factory manual quotes is a translation from Japanese to English.
An English to English translation more or less would be, having the ignition key in the ON position, turns on the ignition circuit, without the engine running, this will most likely damage the igniter if continued for more than 10 minutes.
That is why there is an ACC- accessory position that powers the accessories without powering the ignition system.
Check for a spark. If no spark, get the factory manual and follow the procedures to check out the igniter.
3H
Quote:
Originally Posted by wunderboy
I dont understand this. Why is it only if the engine wont start? If the engine will start can you leave it in the on position? I had my stereo on a lot while doing the timing belt, body work etc... my car wont start now, it will turn over and over, and is whining like a little bi*ch, but no start... could this be an igniter problem?
it will turn over and over, and is whining like a little bi*ch, but no start... could this be an igniter problem?
Sounds liek the starter is spinning, but could be that the starter solenoid isnt pushing it onto the flywheel teeth. The reason why toyota states you cant leave the ignition on for 10secs, is because the start wires would get so hot that they'd start to melt the insulation and cause hazards.
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