Baby it's cold... inside!

[pdrover]

I've noticed the recent chatter here concerning water pumps, thermostats, and radiators, but I've a problem that is slightly different from everyone else's. My engine temp is fine (according to the dashboard), but it takes about 20 minutes before any heat is pumped into the interior of the car.

Some background. My waterpump is on the way out. It's leaking so I have to top up the coolant every morning. No big, as long as I keep on top of it. This issue will be dealt with payday.

When I start from cold, the needle is on C, as one would expect. 5-10 minutes later, the needle moved, rather suddenly to the middle position an stays there. This, I gather, is normal - the engine heats to a point where the thermostats opens and coolant starts to flow. It used to be that as soon as the needle moved off of C, I could get warmth out of the heater. Not now.

The temp gauge still behaves the same, but I can not get any interior heating for at least 20 minutes of highway running! Additionally, it seems that the heater does go cold after producing heat for a while.

I assume that there is only one thermostat and that one is working fine, because the engine is not overheating.

Something that just occured to me - could it be that there is an air lock in the coolant circuit? A bubble that jostles around, expands and contracts, that often keeps hot water from the interior heater? How would one fix that? Or should I just see what happens when the pump is fixed (I plan to get the thermostat done at that time too).

All opinions are appreciated.
Paul.

[Raddman]

Originally Posted by pdrover

I've noticed the recent chatter here concerning water pumps, thermostats, and radiators, but I've a problem that is slightly different from everyone else's. My engine temp is fine (according to the dashboard), but it takes about 20 minutes before any heat is pumped into the interior of the car.

Some background. My waterpump is on the way out. It's leaking so I have to top up the coolant every morning. No big, as long as I keep on top of it. This issue will be dealt with payday.

When I start from cold, the needle is on C, as one would expect. 5-10 minutes later, the needle moved, rather suddenly to the middle position an stays there. This, I gather, is normal - the engine heats to a point where the thermostats opens and coolant starts to flow. It used to be that as soon as the needle moved off of C, I could get warmth out of the heater. Not now.

The temp gauge still behaves the same, but I can not get any interior heating for at least 20 minutes of highway running! Additionally, it seems that the heater does go cold after producing heat for a while.

I assume that there is only one thermostat and that one is working fine, because the engine is not overheating.

Something that just occured to me - could it be that there is an air lock in the coolant circuit? A bubble that jostles around, expands and contracts, that often keeps hot water from the interior heater? How would one fix that? Or should I just see what happens when the pump is fixed (I plan to get the thermostat done at that time too).

All opinions are appreciated.
Paul.

Could be when the water pumps leaking its sucking air back in once the engine is shut off(like it does from your reservoir), but I always thought a bubble/air block would go up and get stuck in the top hose causing it to overheat but I think I read somewhere that you can get one in your heater also! If you know where your bleeder screw is (probably near your thermostat) and some cars have one near their water pump or both try "burping it and see if that helps..If your going to replace those things in the near future, Then just see what happens after you do.. Definitely get a good back flush also....Few tips...Check your hoses for replacement, get all of the old gasket off and when filling its a good idea to burp(get rid of all the air) your car a few times...Good Luck...Radd Guy...