Help with Driveaxle Replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Trueno90Deuce · 02-15-2006, 10:59 AM

Hi,
I neglected to check my boots and found I had a torn one. Now my driveaxle on the passenger front is toast, I thought that noise was a unbalanced tire.

Anyways, I have never done this job before but it seems easy after doing some homework on it. I was just wondering if I needed anything else from this list...

new axle
boot
seals
grease
jack stands
puller to get the axel out of the hub
mallet to knock the axel out of the tranny
clamp to hold my brakes in place on the caliper

If that's it does anyone know how much grease I should put in the boot?
How long does this take you guys to do this?

Mikey-rebuilt 4age, I got pics soon...
check my car domain and post a vote if you know about sway bars
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/737008

fsds123 · 02-15-2006, 12:16 PM

Are you replacing the whole axle? (easiest and probably best) If so then there is no need for the boot, grease and seals. The new axle will have all that. Replacing just the boot on a torn C/V joint boot doesn't make any sense, since odds are the bearings/cage are already worn. Replacing the CV joint doesn't make much sense either since it is more work and doesn't save much $$ over just buying a new axle. A rebuilt axle from autozone runs ~$65 and can be swapped in about 30 minutes.

tashirosgt · 02-15-2006, 01:13 PM

I know that on the automatic transmission, you have to refill the differential with transmission fluid by pumping it in. I think you can buy fluid in a bottle with a pumps on it.

It helps to have a brass bar about 1 ft long to use in pounding the axels in and out. I suppose one could use a bar of any soft metal. Pound a little, then rotate the axel 180 deg and pound some more.

Does the manual say to unhook the tie rod end before you remove the axle from the hub? Then you need the tool for that.

The reservoir bolt on the automatic transmission is rather large as is the axel nut so you might need to add to your collection of wrenches and sockets.

'88ROLLAGTS · 02-15-2006, 01:43 PM

i just recently replaced mine on my '88 gts, i had to disconnect the lower "a arm" to get the spline out of the spindle. the nut on the end of the shaft was i think a 32 mm. i also used a jaw type puller to push the shaft out of the spindle.i would also reccomend to just replace the whole axel rather than buying piece by piece and going through all the hassle. the costr makes sense too.

good luck!

Trueno90Deuce · 02-15-2006, 04:08 PM

oh yes, that's right transmission fluid Thanks! I'm going to get Royal Purple for that now. I would have forgotten if you didn't mention that.

Yes I'm replacing the whole axel and using a puller. Like I said, my axel is toast. I didn't realize that the new axel comes with it's own boots, that's excellent since I'm getting it from Autozone I can knock 7.99 off the price for a new boot. I'm assuming I still need the seals since I'm envisioning those to be something that is not apart of the body of the axel.

The transmission is manual. I happy to hear that this job only takes you 30 minutes, I'm really meticulous when I do work and for first times, maybe I can get this overwith within 3 hours.

Thanks I really appreciate the quick responses everyone, keep em coming if there's something that has been missed

.

Peace Mikey

tashirosgt · 02-15-2006, 04:57 PM

For the manual transmission, you might need gear oil instead of ATF.

fsds123 · 02-15-2006, 07:13 PM

One more thing... you will probably need a breaker bar and then a hollow pipe to extend it. The axle nut can sometimes be a royal pain to get off.

bob022004 · 02-15-2006, 07:19 PM

my axle nuts were 30mm. and make sure those axles are seated when you re-install. those c clips make them pretty tough to seat all the way. i suggest an 3/8 drive extension and a large mallet once the axle is lined up. if you use the mallet directly on the end of the axle the nut will never go on because the threads will be tanked. and make sure you put your purse down to swing that mallet.....one side unseated on me and i lost all power on the way home from the auto skills shop. not fun having to re-seat that axle on the side of the road. the amsoil heavy duty gear oil has actually over time improved the shifting in my 88 GTS but it was 28 USD for 3 quarts. and you will need the grease for the outer axle ends.

jermag24 · 02-15-2006, 10:55 PM

What the best way to get the axle out of the tranny (manual)? I'm doing this in the next week or so on my '94 Camry, and have heard horror stories about replacing axles (leaking seals afterward). I am mechanically inclined, but am overdue for a pain in the butt job!

Also, where is the link for the downloadable service manual located? Thanks!

punter · 02-15-2006, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jermag24

What the best way to get the axle out of the tranny (manual)? I'm doing this in the next week or so on my '94 Camry, and have heard horror stories about replacing axles (leaking seals afterward). I am mechanically inclined, but am overdue for a pain in the butt job!

Also, where is the link for the downloadable service manual located? Thanks!

Its a good idea to replace the seals whenever you remove the axel there only a few bux anyway, won't leak if you do that.

jermag24 · 02-15-2006, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by punter

Its a good idea to replace the seals whenever you remove the axel there only a few bux anyway, won't leak if you do that.

That sounds smart. How about actually getting the axle out of the tranny, are there clips or something retaining them?