AE92 GTS-16 still won't run - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

mrdennmann · 02-28-2006, 03:53 PM

OK, I really need some assistance from someone knowledgable on the AE92. I used to have a fantastic Toyota guy locally for my car and truck, but he retired.

My 1988 Corolla GTS-16 ran incredible for 5 months without so much as a hickup. the first problem that I noticed was the charging/brake light came on. I wanted to get it home quickly, but at 5:00 pm, on a friday, acrossed state lines, quick isn't really an option. It was raining very hard, and the wipers were slowing down. That ruled out the brakes right away. the car came to rest in the center lane of one of the only two bridges crossing the columbia river. someone gave me a jump start, with enough power to get home.

When I got home, I ordered a replacement alternator. What a complete pain to install. It was like playing tetris, backwards, with tools, in the dark.

I restarted the car, and drove it for maybe 20 minutes. then the ignition turned off. leaving the car on the side of the road again. I wouldn't re-start. It would turn over until the sun went down, I could smell fuel, but no spark.

I towed it home with my Toyota truck. when I got it home, it started again, and ran for another 15 minutes, then died. again, it would turn over, but not fire.

I've checked the spark plug wires, and the plugs, they all seem fine.

Does anyone here know where I should look next?

RedruM · 02-28-2006, 03:56 PM

Change The Distributor Cap... And Dont Go Cheap On One.... Also Check Your Afm, Make Sure Its Working

punter · 02-28-2006, 04:01 PM

Did it stop suddenly??

If so I would be looking at the coil or ignitor.

mrdennmann · 02-28-2006, 04:17 PM

yeah, it just shuts off. I've been told that it might be the ignition module that resides inside the distributer. I think they want like $300.00 for that. I'd like to be sure, before I spend that kind of money that it's going to take care of the problem though

freakinbox · 02-28-2006, 05:06 PM

how about the battery! and test the coil, plugs and so on. you can always get a meter to them to check

mrdennmann · 02-28-2006, 05:18 PM

it could have been damaged by the altnerator, but I doubt it. How would I use a meter to test all these items? Keep in mind, I'm working on this solo, so it's a little more complicated with only one set of hands.

freakinbox · 02-28-2006, 05:20 PM

the battery could be brand new. drive with a fried alternater you can fry a battery, and vise versa! if it's less than a month old it should still have a warrenty? return it!

punter · 02-28-2006, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freakinbox

how about the battery! and test the coil, plugs and so on. you can always get a meter to them to check

I agree you should test it, but I would really doubt it would be the cause of your problem.

freakinbox · 02-28-2006, 09:52 PM

it sounds electrical

punter · 02-28-2006, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freakinbox

it sounds electrical

Yes but a battery runs down slowly, ie. your lights will dim etc. etc. Suddenly switching off suggests something else.

Turn the key to "ON" (don't start it) and open the hood, Can you hear any noises??

***kamesama980*** · 02-28-2006, 10:39 PM

battery running down slowly w/ dimming lights only happens when the alternators completely toast. the alternator could be putting out enough juice to run headlights etc with assistance from the battery and everythings OK till the battery hits E and the alternator cant supply enough juice. ECU under-voltages and shuts down killing the engine pretty quick. my alternators on its way out and before i got a new battery, that was too. with the old battery, one week i was out of town and it was down to .1 volts. yes 1/10 of a volt in a week. driving around afterwards to charge it, if the engine wasnt revving fast enough for the alternator to generate enough current to run the car and charge the battery, the car stalled. which means whenever i came to an intersection i had to coast in neutral to a stop keeping the engine over 1500 rpm lol. anyway, new battery and saving up for alternator now, as ive got the ominous brakes/charge/lights all lighting up at the same time (cressida has a taillight-out indicator too)

FYI, car batteries are designed chamically for high-amperage/short term usage and to be maintained at near full voltage all the time. if you fully drain it, you just took off 1/2 its lifespan/power. deep cycle batteries are the opposite...they are crap for high-amperage/short term drain but will supply low amperage for days down to nearly fully drained without suffering for it.

punter · 02-28-2006, 10:59 PM

The battery is not the problem because the car still cranks over after the motor shuts off.

toyotaspeed90 · 03-01-2006, 01:23 AM

unless it's a spiral cell battery.... those things do goofy things (one caused my mr2's alt to overcharge, then it sent a voltage spike through the system & blew parts in my ECU)

in the 4age's, the ignitor is not int he distirbutor, it is attached to the back of the coil (which in an ae92 is hanging on the strut tower bar, pass side)..... check junkyards, they can be obtained for less than $10

my first insticts would have to be: 1) coil 2) coil wire 3) cap/rotor

mrdennmann · 03-01-2006, 02:19 AM

it will turn over for an eternatiy. I've even hooked up cables to my truck and that battery has served me well. still turns, just no spark. I'm more than a little frustrated, if it was something mechanical, I'd be all over it, but this has got me completely confused. should I replace the distributer, and the coil? maybe that will do it.

punter · 03-01-2006, 02:42 PM

I would be replacing the coil/ignitor first.