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Old 03-03-2006, 04:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hood quality?

My 1991 Hood inner structure became unglued from the outer skin. I guess the old motor had a lot of oil leaks and the glue dissolved? Can I fix this easily??
What are the quality of these cheap hood??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Anyone used one??
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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hello auto wrecker. Nice thing about a hood is if you can't find a matching one you can just paint it black. It;s not that uncommon to see a car with a black hood
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Old 03-03-2006, 08:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah, scrap yard is your best bet...find a good, trusty place and they'll save you thousands of dollars over time. Hood should be in the $20-$50 range...

If you want to try fixing it yourself, look for a product called JB Weld. It's a cold-weld type epoxy that bonds well on metal-to-metal. You'll just have to clean the underside of the hood with a good solvent first, though...
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Old 03-03-2006, 08:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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there was a levin gtz hood on ebay. but sigh you would need a sc and intercooler to match
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Old 03-03-2006, 10:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBayToyotaBoy
If you want to try fixing it yourself, look for a product called JB Weld. It's a cold-weld type epoxy that bonds well on metal-to-metal. You'll just have to clean the underside of the hood with a good solvent first, though...
That is not a bad call. Good thinking....

Paul Harvey swears by that product...
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Old 03-03-2006, 10:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Heh heh, so do I. In the winter when I can't do proper body work, I use it to temporarily seal-up the rusted weld seams in my rear wheel wells. It keeps water/dust from filling the trunk!!!
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If it just disolved the glue like in the middle of the hood then my advise would be to go to a home depot or home store and find yourself some sorta calking (i used roof patch on my trunk lid) and just put it in there with a calking gun, alot cheaper then buying a used or new hood.

As for the quality of the cheapo hoods, i have a cheapo fender that is crap i bought the car with it, it is now rusted, and it never ever fit right.
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Old 03-06-2006, 06:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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But the inner hood and the outer 'skin' now have separated and there is about 1-1.5" of air space between them. I could get in there and remove the old caulk or glue or whatever that non-oil-resistant stuff is, but what do I do while using JB Weld, sit on it?? Kind of afraid of ruining it, but what do I have to lose eh??
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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^^Well, you don't have to sit on it! If you're really concerned (you don't really need to be, unless you don't like to see the hood skin vibrate on the highway ), take the hood off and take it inside for the night. Place it upside-down on a carpeted floor, apply the JB Weld, then put some heavy boxes on the internal frame so the contact is true and firm.

The stuff only needs 15 hours (overnight) to dry, so no biggie there...
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks, I may try that. Going to have to clean & remove the old caulk first, I hope it isn't too hard. Maybe a wire brush and some carb-cleaner or something like that...
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I would stay away from chaulk and use JB Weld the shit is super strong, and can stand temperatures up to 300 degrees.
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Another board is telling me the factory stuff is 'seam sealer' by 3M... I'd be worried that JB-Weld would be too 'stiff'. As the hood inner structure and outer warm up at different rates, then later equalize in temperature, it might be 'not flexible enough' and mess up the paint job, or look funny... Not sure though...
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Old 03-09-2006, 06:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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^^ See the post above you...JB Weld is super-shit. Whatever you use, you'll have to take a lot of care to make sure it "looks good"...unless it's a show-car, no one will ever see a little epoxy under the hood. IMHO, it's not worth losing sleep over!
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