1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 Temp Guage, Idle, ECU and more - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla Forum > Archived Corolla threads

Archived Corolla threads Older Archived Corolla threads

ToyotaNation.com is the premier Toyota Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-07-2006, 04:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Question 1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 Temp Guage, Idle, ECU and more

Hi,

I have a 1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 and my temp gauge went crazy and the idle went bad with engine stalling. The fans run when the engine is barely warm, and keep running til the key is turned off. Temp guage sometimes works sometimes doesn't and reads cold when engine is hot. It appears the ECU reads the temperature from the temp gauge. A new temp sensor did not fix the problem but I decided to put in a new one just to make sure, and sice I am replacing the instrument cluster. I ordered a used Instrument cluster for about $35.00 and wil get it very soon. eBay did not have my year, so it is coming from some salvage yard I found parts on the Internet. Teh gas gauge went bad a couple yhears back, and maybe that was the gauge/instrument cluster tOO? I don't know, but since I am relacing it, I hope so, but it might/might not be related to the cluster. In any case I am not caring to much abou the fuel gauge, this temp guage problem makes the car only drivabler if the lights are turned on. When you turnt he lights on it kicks the idale up so it does not stall.

I have been looking through all the forums.. and usually, like this forum, the conversation ends with no more info! ?? It looks like the ECU is seeing a bad temp sensor reading caused by the instrument cluster electronics. But, since most of the forums have very little information on this I am not 100% sure. So, I am still researching. These forums start getting close to the subject and answers, then, the conversations end... and I am left searching forever with Yahoo and Google.... really bites... you would think the answer is on the Internet somewhere??


Anyone have any thoughts/answers on this??


Thank you,
from San Diego
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-07-2006, 08:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
KDM is in
 
REN69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clarington/T.Dot
Posts: 18,137
Gameroom cash: $273221
Thanks: 1
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
View REN69's Photo Gallery
did you change the thermostat yet??? its obvious that its either stuck open and not letting the motor warm up properly, the ECU kicks up the Idle because it thinks the car is still not warm enough. OR the thermostat is stuck closed therefore not letting Another thing that would cause this problem is having a dead Rad. Check the rad fins, if you can push the fins right thru, then its time for a new rad.
__________________
12 Sonata YF "OMG" - 96 AE102 Sedan "WTF!" - 84 MA61 P-Type "BBQ!!"



Toronto area meet info click here!
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/69-canada/
REN69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2006, 08:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
The TN Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,274
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View punter's Photo Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredat44
It looks like the ECU is seeing a bad temp sensor reading caused by the instrument cluster electronics.
The instrument cluster can't affect the ECU, only the temp sender could do that. Why are you so sure is not the engine running too hot or too cold??
punter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2006, 10:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

Engine is not running to hot or to cold. it is just right. It will not overheat at all. it is all good as far as temperature goes. I have new sensors in, both the temp sensors for the coolant. These are the 2 that are for the Fans and the ECU. The idle is still totally screwed, only way it can idle now is by leaving the lights on. As the lights kick the idle up a few hundred RPM. I have had the car since new. never ever had this problem before. A long time ago we had a new ECU installed because of the Engine light switch had a problem and the shop had to replace the ECU, but that was at least 150,000 miles ago. Again, the temperature gauge throws tantrums. This problem just started 3 days ago.

1) Temperature gauge goes to dead cold when engine is hot/warm. But then it can move to warm, when hot, and back to cold when hot, whenever it feels like.

2 ) Engine will not idle without putting the lights on. Or turning the idle screw up(which I refuse to move more than 1.5 turns, so I will not lose the perfect tune it had before this problem happened)

4) Fans are/were staying on even when the engine was cool. Though, the fan problem seems to have either gone away or has stopped lately. (not sure if that problem stil exists).

(note: Gas guage is bad (went bad a couple years back, and could be the gauge or the fuel sending unit, not sure)

Note: I ordered the new (used) instrument cluster.

First time in all these years this car has done this... sigh..


Last edited by retiredat44; 03-08-2006 at 11:16 AM.
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2006, 10:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
The TN Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,274
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View punter's Photo Gallery
Hmm.... that does sound strange, could be an earthing problem. Is it a 4af or 4afe??
punter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2006, 12:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 4-AF
Carb (FWD) 1600cc 2 door.
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2006, 01:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

More info:
I have looke dinto the Idle proble, car wil not idle.

It appears the "idle solenoid" maybe went bad. As it wil only stay running if you rev the engine, put your foot on the gas, and/or run the Car Lights, as that will make the solenoid increase the idle.

it was runnign great Sunday. But the Temp gauge went crazy, and it stopped working, then the idle stopped working.

I am really wondering if there is a 'short' in the instrument cluster, and in turn the ignition wiring (maybe the ECU, Instrument panel (instrument cluster) wiring and circuit have a problem which made the temp gauge go crazy and the Idle Solenoid go crazy....

Car has 300,000 miles so it is possible it went into 'meltdown' from old age?

But for all this to happen there must be a common point where the trouble started.
I would really like to know if the gauges and Intrument cluster circuit has a malfunction which caused the instruments and the idle solenoid to malfunction?
=======

More websites with testing and troubleshooting the idle solenoid:
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt11.pdf#search='cut%20off%20Solenoid%20toyota%20 engine%20will%20not%20idle'

-------
1993 Toyota:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl799a-lib.htm
----------



any more ideas?

thanx..

Last edited by retiredat44; 03-08-2006 at 01:28 PM.
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2006, 02:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Update:
ECU ... still looking into the ECU in the major role in all these problems..
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2006, 03:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
KDM is in
 
REN69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clarington/T.Dot
Posts: 18,137
Gameroom cash: $273221
Thanks: 1
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
View REN69's Photo Gallery
You didn't tell us the car had 300,000 miles.
__________________
12 Sonata YF "OMG" - 96 AE102 Sedan "WTF!" - 84 MA61 P-Type "BBQ!!"



Toronto area meet info click here!
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=69
REN69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2006, 11:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

299,993 miles this morning

That is why it is falling apart..


Well, I found out the ECU is fine, at least it has no bad codes to share with me.

But, the car is still porked, I am taking it to the shop this weekend.

I just don't have the equipment at home to diagnose it.

It appears the temp gauge (and cooling fans) are working correctly again, no problems in 2 days. (and 2 new temp sensors).

But, it has bad idling problems at normal idle. (I had to bump the idle up)

I checked al the solenoids on the carb and they seem to be working as they should. The distrubor was replaced (with a rebuilt) a while back and it does not seem to have any problems from start to go when you accelerate from a stop or at any speed.

The tune-up shop has all the wonderful tools that I don't have. I really like to get a diagnosis and replace the parts myself. it costs to much to replace simple things, waaay too much. But my health is really bad so working on cars hurts me bad.

My wife needs a new car really bad. I have had new Hondas and New Toyota and new American (new custom Dodge Van back in 1979) cars. it will definetely be either a Honda or Toyota.

When i was a kid and teen, my family had cars from the 1940's , 50's and 60's. It was soo easy to find and diagnose problems back then. The smog BS really make sit impossible.

Last edited by retiredat44; 03-09-2006 at 11:03 AM.
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2006, 02:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
KDM is in
 
REN69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clarington/T.Dot
Posts: 18,137
Gameroom cash: $273221
Thanks: 1
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
View REN69's Photo Gallery
The money you're going to invest on the motor now probably won't make as much sense as getting a newer motor instead. You can get motors for so cheap now.
__________________
12 Sonata YF "OMG" - 96 AE102 Sedan "WTF!" - 84 MA61 P-Type "BBQ!!"



Toronto area meet info click here!
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=69
REN69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2006, 07:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

New Motor? Who said that..... it's a prblem with the smog eqipment or tune-up related. The engine doe snot burn oil. Well, not any smoke yet...
plugs for the mos tpart come out white/tan clean...
never said a new motor...
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2006, 01:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

I took it to the Mechanic, he put it on the tune-up machines. He says it's a carburetor problem, but can't get to it till next Saturday (He actually wanted it monday, but my wife needs the car for work). He checked everything else, and says it has great compression in all 4 cylinders. Everything checks out good but, the carb is messed up.
He could not do a thing with the idle. It floats around too much. So, now just going to wait till he can get to it.


Thank you too all that helped.
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2006, 03:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Exclamation

I am considering rebudling the carb myself. A kit is about $40.00. I used to rebuild car and morotorcycle carbs a long time ago. Some carbs are very complicated, and am considering if this Toyota Corolla Carb is to much of a nigthmare or an easy one, since I have never done a 1989 Toyota Corolla Carb. I am looking for opinions from those that have actually rebuild this same type/model of Carb.

I don't have access to scpecialized carb rebuild tools, I only have the basic hand tools.

I see some used carbs, but am worried about getting a bad carb. A rebuilt looks to be going for about $500.00.



Anyone here in these forums ever rebuild a Corolla carb, or similar model?

Thanx..
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2006, 05:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
One with the force
 
retiredat44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View retiredat44's Photo Gallery
Thumbs up

I rebuilt it.. well I went to NAPA, bought a rebuild kit for $50.00. (Kragen had one, but through special order, and for about $40.00. But I wanted it immediately, so I paid the $50.00 at Napa Auto.

I put in the new parts, after taking off the carb. I then put the carb back on, and all the problems are now fixed. (well for a car with 300,00 miles, it's running great now..)

I was a bit worried about getting al the vacuum lines and linkages back in the correct order. I was going to tag each one, but instead I grabbed our new HP Digital camera and took some shots without good aim, there was no room under the hood, so I just held it with both hands, and used the flash and pinted at several different angles.

The pictures are extremely clear!! You can read al the print, writing, details on every single part! Unbelieavbly clear uplocse, great focus, color and detail! Just the best ever!

Anyway, it turend out it helped me double check my work int he re-attachments.

Before I bought the rebuild kit I looked up the prices of rebuilt carbs and found them to be around $500.00 !! so I went with the rebuilt kit. I have not rebuilt a carb for many many years, and it took me 1 day and 1 night... (was up the whole night) it would have saved me great time and work had I had a solvent tank ful of carb cleaner, but I don't have one, so al the cleaning was by hand with only some spray cans of cleaner...

for those that don't know.. if you can get the cleaner basket with the big can of liquid barb cleaner anhd let it soak for 24 hours if you really want it perfect and clean. there is no other way. ( I am know allergic to many7 petro checmicals so I try to avoid them, my hands turn read swell, crack and bleed, so I don't car to use petro checmical much). But ther eis npo other way, unles syou have access to a shop thyat can do it for you.

I also kept the same flaot setting and choke setting, as I felt it was worht the risk to leave those as it. But, I can always take it partially aprt ont he car if I ever have to go back and tweak any minor settings. The kit was a full kit. Instructions ar enot for the beginner. So, if you have never done a carb before I would advise against learning on a complicated carb.

if you have enough money buy a good rebuilt. When I was younger I would purchase rebuilt from the local auto suplly and got a few bad ones. The rebuilts do not replace the shaft sleeves (I think they are brass and the are the holes that the throttle plate shaft run through, as sometimes through wear they become egg shpaed and unless you get those replced the shaft wobble/if they are worn).

The floats in newer carbs are a type of plastic and do not wear out, the old tin ones would develop leaks or other problems and would not flaot correctly. the plastic type last forever.

The most important parts 9they are al very veyr important, but the needle vale and seat and the gaskets are most important. The primary and primary pumps are also very imprtant, but you must get it all dissasembled and cleaned.

Always remember to stuff a rag, or cover the intake manifild to make sure nothing at all gets into the intake with the carb off. You wil be thr sorriest person and car on earth if anything does.

Don't overtighten and break a carb bolt, or you wil never get it to run good again, so watch your torguing of the carb bolts.

The Toyota carb has these electronic solenoids, which are a total bitch to put back in, only because the wired are soldered on and you have to screw them back in, and unless you unsoldered them to screw them back in, the twisting of the wired sucks big time!

Good luck to all those the rebuild carbs!!



Now back to some very very fine tuning over the next couple of days, my wife says the car runs great.... which helps me because I am very tired from all the work.. and can't deal with complaints..
retiredat44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla Forum > Archived Corolla threads

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:27 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.