HELP! Break failure

[cinnabar]

I just got done replacing the struts on my car and then I tried to back it out of my garage when the break pedal went soft on me and wouldn't even apply enough pressure to stop my car from inching backwards. I looked in the B-fluid tank and saw that it was empty I guess from disconnecting the rear break lines to get the struts. So I poured whatever leaked out into the pan into the tank back up a little past the MIN mark... only thing is it still does it.
I guess it could be the air that got caught in there when I connected the lines again, so how can I bleed that out of there or is it something else... PLEASE HELP... I want to go home.

[REN69]

brake bleeder is probably the only way.

[03mooncorolla]

Air is the problem

Have you bled brakes before? You'll need another person.

[cinnabar]

shit. I'm alone so I really can't do it with another body. Isn't there a bleed screw somewhere?

[03mooncorolla]

Bleeding the breaks requires two people (or a special tool)

The reason for two people is that one will pump the breaks usually two or three times and then hold the pedal, then the second person will open the bleed screw on the wheel cylinder as you have said the rear strut was changed.

Once the bleed screw is opened the person holding the pedal will keep pressure on the pedal, pushing out the air in the system until the line running a clear stream of fluid (no air bubbles).this may take a few times to get all the air out.

Before the person inside pumps the pedal again close the bleeder screw and the they can remove thier foot and pump again (repeat until all air is removed from the system).

start with the R/r first as it is usually the furthest from the resivior.

Hope this helps

[cinnabar]

Well, I just got done bleeding the rears and it seemed to normalize. So I think I'll just skip the fronts and call it. Thanks dudes!