Hi guys have siver top 20v in my ae95 wagon and want to use after market efi so i can ditch the air box .. any sugestions..im on a budget and dont want to go racing just an effecient efi system that will work and be reliable..im in australia and so far im looking at haltec or wolf 3d..motec is to expensive..any sugestions would be muched appreciated>>>>
I would recommend haltech, although that is because I've had nothing to do with wolf3d's. If your on a budget and not afraid of electronics you could give megasquirt a go.
Do you have LINK computers in aussy??, they're a good low budget option.
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Thanks heaps..just found out we do have links and its bout the same price, but i have to check who tunes them as most performance stuff in australia is in other states like the link dealer.. haltec are based in another state but have full suport here in melbourne
I will be doing the wiring my self. i have it ready for the efi eg. all the sensors and wires are run and waiting to be pluged in under the dash. Thanks again and i'll also check out mega sqiurt! (nice name lol)
Sorry bout second post ...just found mega squirt on da net..cant belive it! nice and cheap but dont think i want to pull that sort of favour from my electronics mate..can see it hiting the fan
and as you might know the 20v run better with ..um the injectors being fired a speacial way ..cant think whats it called..twice in one stoke,,staged or somthing plus i have vct.i think it might get a bit complicated..if any one has done it with a 20v please let me know as i will prob go that way if i know it works well...ANd i would gladly buy a ecu map....!!
Thanks again cuzman
One other problem that you will run into (if you go megasquirt) is that the MS can't read the signal from the 20v dizzy, to get around this most people change to the ford EDIS system, to control the spark.
(This kills 2 birds with one stone in a rwd 20v application, but in a fwd its probably too much hastle)
If you have full local support for haltec and know or know of someone competent to tune it that would be your best bet. The tune is the single most important thing, so it pays to make sure its right.
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As far as the air box is conserned i have removed the air flow senson as its the trap door type(too much restrion and place a pod filter on the end of the intake pipe wich sits in the open air box...the lids off and then run piping from the bottom of the air box to the front bumber for cold air....but i'm thinking off just having the four std trumpets turned upside down so there facing up with socks as i have enough room with my bonnet/hood scoop..
I was short of money so i used the door map pocket lol but it works a treat and after a spay no one could tell..unless i gave'em a hint
So your driving it around with no AFM, I bet that runs well.
The intake setup of a 20v is very good, on a silvertop its the exhaust side (ports) that choke it up. (it still flows really well). I wouldn't bother with a scoop and sock filters, it will give you little to no gain. (will give loud induction noise though)
In my experence/observations the cheapest way to get power out of a silvertop is, after market ecu, wild cams (toda or similar), and a good exhaust. (blacktop 4-2 section with custom from there back).
Also how do you have 175hp from an n/a silvertop??
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Just took it of the road for some more work ..it wont run with out the afm..bugger!
Its ready and wired for the new efi computer ......and im hoping to put disks on the back but its a bit tricky on my model ...see my other posts for info
Factory hp is 160 hp flywheel.....i've put on a 2.5 exhaust,high flow cat,and a muffler of a celelca gt4 bout 94 model...not much baffling
Intake was a cold air ram induction setup at the time......POd filter in the mix
Ignition was slightly advanced
fuel was 98 octane shell optimax its every were here..Also a bit of 110 oct race fuel..i get it cheap as of my dad as he works in the fuel industry..
The motor is fresh eg 40000 km on it gen
Custom ignition leads as i dont like the pissy ones that come with it!!
The leads are thick as ...just fit under the lead cover on the head
Used magniteck (castol) oil as this helped..no brand preference but it kills the cheap stuff for smooth running
NOw i not gunna shit ya as i never put it on a rolla but i recon thats a fare guess?
what do you think?
im claming an 8% increase over stock
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