Accessories on with the key out

[gobraphil]

I have just acquired a 97 Corolla DX. It runs great but when the keys are out, the accessories are still on. (Fan, oil light, seat belt light, etc). I temporarily replaced the ignition switch (the electrical part) but it didnt work. Somehow, I think the wire coming from the ignition switch is getting juice. There is a alarm system installed so there is a mess of wires underneath there. HAs anyone seen this problem before? I think it is alarm setup. Any pointers out there to get me started?

[92lowrolla]

mine did a similar thing i had to push in the back of the ignition switch to start it and sometimes i could pull they key out and the car would still run

[gobraphil]

i checked the switch circuit and i am getting 3 hot wires with the key out. 2 are supposed to be hot (white and blk/red). The black/orange wire is hot also. It goes to the j/b 1. Any ideas on how it can be getting juice? It is getting juice when not hooked to the switch if that makes sense.

[daniel2002p]

either the alarm system has some wires crossing, try disconnecting it and see if it still does that, otherwise it is the ignition switch.....

D

[gobraphil]

Sorry, I misspoke. The blk with yellow wire is hot, not the black/orange wire. This goes to the 10 AMP GAUGE fuse (which is hot too, of course). This goes into the integration relay. Could this be feeding the fuse (in reverse)? Anyone have good directions to replace the integration relay?

I have removed the alarm system and it still has the same problem.

[thespud]

The intergration relay should be the little white box just behind the fuse box... It should just pull out but it is needed to run the car. This may be the problem, but it may also be another relay somewhere else. Is there an ACC or IGN relay in the box? I cant remember now, its been that long since ive worked on the Corolla.

Could just be that your IGN relay is stuck on if the fan and Oil light is on... The intergration relay when the car is off is really just to make that annoying ding when the key is in and the door is open....

[gobraphil]

Thanks for the tip. The line that is hot goes from the back side of the IGN switch, to the Junction Box (IGN 10 amp and it is hot) to the integration relay and then to the altenator. I just dont think that the Black /yellow line should be hot. I have an electrician friend who can read scematics so he will be able to help me with whether it should be hot or not. Do you know where the ignition relay would be?

Thanks for your help.

[thespud]

OK, i just checked the Schematics... Neither the BY or BO lines should be hot. They BY goes to more than just the Guage fuse. It is going to the Engine Main Relay. I cant understand where you are getting power in that wire though.

A few more questions to try to figure out where it is coming from.
1. Do you have ABS?
2. Is the Charge light on?
3. are the indicators working? Not the Hazard Lights...

[gobraphil]

A BIG THANKS for helping me out spud (or as my Columbian friend says (SPOOD, lol)!
I am at the beach away from the car for a week so i cant check that stuff. Im not sure that the car has antilock brakes and im not sure about the other ones either...


I was thinking, is there a chance that the alternator ign lead could be powered causing feedback into the whole system. I think the integration relay would have to be closed but i dont think they work in reverse....

Again, thanks so much!

[thespud]

Not possible. The IGN lead on the Alt is the BO, and you say its the BY thats hot, other than that its just the two white wires on the alternator - both are hot and both are the white wire.

If it is the Black/Orange that is hot, it could be possible that its an alternator short. Thats why i asked if the charge light is on. This would indicate that the BO is hot.

The ABS was possibly a short in the ABS ECU if you had it. And the indicators was really just to see if it was the BY IGN wire was hot or if it is just the ACC wire...

Just trying to narrow it down. Car Electronics is what i know best

[gobraphil]

Spud, Is there a difference between alternator and generator? I am using the terms as one and the same. There is a IG wire (r/l) coming from the integration relay to the generator/alternator/regulator. I think it is on page 60 of the toyota wiring manual. It is between the yellow and white wires. Is the regulator built into the alt/gen?

Thanks!

[thespud]

It is. The LR is The ACC wire. You must have the Factory VSS. The only way i can see that the intergration relay is connected to the Alt, is if the Intergration relay is also your BCM in late models, which is also the security system.

This explains alot.... Let me do some research and see if i can find where a possible short is coming from. But it sounds like it may be your alt or your BCM from what you are now telling me.

Its amazing what 2 years difference makes

[gobraphil]

After studying the wiring diagrams, the B/Y wire has four fused connections:
1. 10 Amp Gauge - integration relay,alternator, defogger relay - the power would have to go backwards across the relay for this to be the source. Not sure if this is possible.
2. 15 Amp ECU-IG - ABS ECU, Cruise Control ECU, main engine relay , could be the source..
3. 20 Amp Wiper - Wiper relay (no other power source...)
4. 7.5 Amp Turn - Hazard Switch (not likely)

I plan on removing a fuse at the time to see which one kills the feed to back of the ignition switch. Does this sound like a good plan?

Thanks.

[thespud]

Probably a good dource to figure out your pronlems, then you can try to whittle down which curcuit its coming from...

[gobraphil]

ok, just got back from a week at the beach. Went outside to test the alternator/regulator for voltage with the key off. Zero, nothing, nada! Went and looked at the dash and there were no lights on. So we have an intermittent problem..... Now i have to wait for the problem to manifest itself again before i can troubleshoot. There are three wires going to the regulator, 2 whites and 1 blue/red. Should the white ones have voltage with the key off?