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Old 08-29-2006, 01:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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sludge

i have a good bit of sludge in my engine..what can i do to get rid of some of it...would a can of seafoam in the gas tank help out alot???half in the gas tank and half in the oil????
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Old 08-29-2006, 02:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You sure its sludge? Toyota engines generally (what I've seen) dont get sludge if the oil changes have been done regularly.
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Old 08-29-2006, 02:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yes there seems to be some...how would i get rid of it??
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Old 08-29-2006, 03:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would try to find a shop that would sell me some BG-44K. It is a fuel injection cleaner. If you cant find any of this (I would really try this stuff first) use something specifically designed as engine flush. Just make sure you clean out all of the engine flush before you drive the car.
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Old 08-29-2006, 03:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So is the sludge inside the oil-system or fuel system?

I wouldnt mess with it if its in the oil system, as if the particles start moving, they might start clogging up the oil canals and thats gonna cause major issues.
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Old 08-29-2006, 04:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yea my engine had around 233000 km on it when I took the valve cover off and there wasn't ANY sludge in it.
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Old 08-29-2006, 05:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would do an Auto-RX treatment. It liquefies any sludge that may be in your engine, loosens stuck rings, seals many leaks and can also minimize any oil being burnt.

I also thought that my engine was clean when I did the timing belt (no sludge), but after seeing what came out after the first phase of the treatment, I was wrong

Oil Forum
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=5

Auto-Rx
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

Read up on Auto-RX, it’s no snake oil
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Old 08-30-2006, 06:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Dont do it! Go read the info on their website. What they say about synthetic oil is absolutely wrong. Synthetic oil will not harm your engine. You do what you want but I wouldnt use it. I had over 248,000 miles on my engine and no sludge in it when I did my swap to a 20vST.
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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On which website? Auto-RX?

Nothing wrong with using Synthetic, but the treatment will take longer if it is used.

Quote from Auto-RX:
Auto-Rx will work with all motor oils. In full synthetic oils (with ester, diester, triester bases) the cleaning takes longer. These application instructions take that into account. We have found that non-synthetic oils are superior for stopping or slowing seal leaks and we recommend them for the “rinse phase” of the application. For the “completion phase” run the non-synthetic oil by itself for one oil change interval, then use the brand of oil you prefer (synthetic, synthetic blend or non-synthetic).
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Honestly, i dont think you know what your talking about.
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
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considering alot of the oils now are not ester based, but PAO based. Higher costing oils are, but even most of them are PAO based, especially the ones with a wide viscosity range.

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Auto-Rx will work with all motor oils. In full synthetic oils (with ester, diester, triester bases) the cleaning takes longer. These application instructions take that into account. We have found that non-synthetic oils are superior for stopping or slowing seal leaks and we recommend them for the “rinse phase” of the application. For the “completion phase” run the non-synthetic oil by itself for one oil change interval, then use the brand of oil you prefer (synthetic, synthetic blend or non-synthetic).
Yeah thats one weird article. As synthetic oils are superior in their cleaning abilities, as alot of them now have cleaning agents in the oils themself. Sure if you put mineral oil in and drive with it, leaks would slow down or stop, because you clogging them up, with microscopic dirt particles. But all of that would be washed away with synthetics, so basically you're in the starting point.

I think that whole thing is just a big wad of crap. I'd leave that out of my engine and just stick to good brands of oil. Mobil 1 is ok, they're on the good scale of oils, but theres better ones than it.

Last edited by Flashmn; 08-30-2006 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote "I think that whole thing is just a big wad of crap. I'd leave that out of my engine and just stick to good brands of oil. Mobil 1 is ok, they're on the good scale of oils, but theres better ones than it."

I agree with Flashmn. If you have a bad seal or a leak, just replace the seal. Eventually the seal if bad is going to wear out anyway. But never compromise the quality of your oil to clean your engine. If your engine is bad enough to have that much crap in it, rebuild it. It will be worth it in the end. Or use a good quality engine flush, but I would start with some BG-44K most performance shops have it or they can get it. Just research whatever you use first. Also check out amsoil.com. They have some of the best oil and filters on the market.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
If your engine is bad enough to have that much crap in it, rebuild it. It will be worth it in the end.
Yeah, exactly.

I use toyota OEM filters, they're very good.

Also, you know how I flush my engine. I tear it apart and throw it in a washing machine with some nasty chemicals. Cleans it pretty well.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Obviously no one here has used Auto-Rx. :shrug:

Quote:
As synthetic oils are superior in their cleaning abilities, as alot of them now have cleaning agents in the oils themself.
Not typically true at all. Now something like Redline will aggressively deposit its anti wear agents ..and that may remove some stuff ..but synthetic are no more detergent then dino oils. They may be better at DEPOSIT contol in severe duty....but that's not the same thing now, is it???

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Sure if you put mineral oil in and drive with it, leaks would slow down or stop, because you clogging them up, with microscopic dirt particles.
Sure ..clean oil deposits microscopic dirt thingys. Right. dino oil and synth both flow, pal. When they're at operating temp ..if they're the same viac ...you can't tell the difference. 10.5 CST is 10.5 CST whether you believe it or not. You need an education in oil. You've got a whole lot of misinformation and myth.

Auto-Rx is the real deal. Now if you want to spend thousands of $$$ for that "OOOH what a feeling" in your wallet, go ahead. I would try a $25 remedy ..especially one with such a track record (for the informed) and see how many 10's of thousands of miles, or years, I can get out of an otherwise functional vehicle.

Then again, if you've go money to spend on fastener vibrating boom boxes and sub woofers ..heck you can waste money any way that you want.

Never get in the way of a man parting with his money!!!!

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Old 08-31-2006, 01:32 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Seafoam is a good idea. But I'd do the engine flush seafoam and not the gas additive if you're trying to get rid of sludge.
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Old 08-31-2006, 06:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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geeaea, so your only purpose of joining toyota nation was to start slandering me... thanks, it's nice to be noticed

Maybe its you who needs to learn abit about oils. Being that I repair, build, fix and modify engines to make money out of it. Sure you're right, I havent used Auto-RX, and I probably wont, then again, I dont put acetone in my gasoline either nor do I use motor-up.

Quote:
Auto-Rx is the real deal. Now if you want to spend thousands of $$$ for that "OOOH what a feeling" in your wallet, go ahead.
I dont really get this... spend thousands of $$$for that ooh feeling? whatcha mean? Yeah, maybe an engine rebuild is gonna cost hundreds, but its sure as hell gonna make the engine better, than a 25 dollar can of shit.

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Then again, if you've go money to spend on fastener vibrating boom boxes and sub woofers ..heck you can waste money any way that you want.
Yup... thats what I do.
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