Anyone had experience with this brand of headers? I purchesed a set and am wondering how they are as far as install since the site doesnt realy say much about the install process...i have a 1993 toyota corolla 1.6L 4A-FE engine...
reasonably straight forward on my 7A-FE (1.8) Only thing was one of my AC lines was just touching the stud for my 02 sensor had to bend it forward a bit, do this extremely carefully or you will wreck the lines, also i had to grind like a 1/32 off the the flange at the outermost passenger side, may not be any issues on a 1.6 too.
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Ah when she was in her glory, Not so nice anymore 358k 17years old her time is getting short ....
Last edited by 94_Rolla_Guy; 10-19-2006 at 01:19 AM.
Headers on a 7afe/4afe are very simple. There is plenty of room to work around, and not much in the way for it to touch against. Like said above, if any modification is needed, its minor like pushing a line out of the way.
i didnt drive it much, it was getting dark and theres no where near by where i feel safe zooming around much. it seems to have lessened the fade at the end of the upper rpms, im not sure if its because ive been soo light footed with the right pedal, but it does feel faster when i plant it. it looks soooo out of place with my dingy engine tho, oh well! its turning a nice sandy color right now and is still shiny, i made sure to wash it down with brake cleaner to remove any oils and to wipe it down so finger prints wouldnt become permanent.
the old exhaust removal was ALOT easier than i anticipated. 1st i loosened everything that i could loosen, then ground the heads off the midpipe to cat flange (the bolts/nuts had rusted to one peice with the flange and themselves). once the heads were cut off the rest of the bolt just dropped right out and the flanges came right apart! the rest of the hardware came off easily, except the stock midpipe to manfold nuts. i had to put my electric impact gun on those to get them loose. the manifold to head nuts were all easy except for the one behind the alternator, you need to remove the alternator tensioner assembly from under it and swing the alternator up to get at that nut with a box end 14mm wrench. then you can use the open end once its broken loose. now is a good time to replace the alterator belt since you just took it off to swing the alternator up out of the way. once the stock stuff is off just swap the new into place with the correct gaskets (mine came with gaskets, tho the manifold to head gasket was poorly fit, its flat now but i had to double the torque to 50lb/ft to get the gasket to push flat). everything else i just tightened till it felt tight then reinstalled the alternator with the new belt, tensioned the belt, double checked everything, wiped it down with brake clean and fired it up.
at idle it sounds pretty much the same, save for just a little bit of a hollow whistle (think wind through a window) at the tail pipe. when the engine is revved it sounds a little more "racey" with no rasp (atleast none i could hear). for $100 i dont feel dissappointed yet, im going to pull my PCM fuse so that it can re-learn the fuel trims with the new oxygen sensor and make any adjustments in relation to the change in exhaust flow. i'll track my fuel mileage and see if the header made it more or less. i have a 150 mile drive friday and back on sunday to track highway mileage.
i've seen no drop in milage btw.
i didnt get a full exhaust because i didnt want one, even removing the rear muffler wasnt exactly by my own choice. i got rear ended and that was the cheapest way to get the car going again. its actually a little annoying at times, but with the header dropping that muffler further enhanced its pull at the higher rpms.
Hey Bitter,
You got a nice header and pipe. I saw your compressor in the background. What kind of cfm output do you have with it? Will it push an impact and what brand is it?
Hey Bitter,
You got a nice header and pipe. I saw your compressor in the background. What kind of cfm output do you have with it? Will it push an impact and what brand is it?
$100, around 4SCFM at 90psi, and yea it'll run an impact, but not as well as the shops air supply, its just some generic brand. its enough to run some air tools like an impact or a ractchet, dregreaser gun, blow gun, airbrush. but it lacks the capacity and flow to really work well, but for $100 i dont mind it.
Hey you said u had to remove your alternator...how was it getting it back on...the belt cant have any give to it so im just wondering how much of a pain it was to put back on? I'm willing to do so but am i going to need something/one to help me get it back in place on the belt?
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