My '99 Corolla was not always starting on the first try. I didn't think it was the battery and a mechanic friend told me it would be possible for a non-mechanic to change the starter. I wasn't able to get the starter out, but after my mechanic friend heard the car star, he decided it wasn't a problem with the starter. I changed the clamp on the negative electrode cable and reattached the postive terminal to the starter. I also changed out the passenger side front light bulb. The new light worked and all the internal lights and guages lit up when I put the key in the ignition. When I turned the key all the way to start the car, everything faded to black! I bought a new, fully charged battery, but still no power. Is this due to a blown fuse or fused relay? Where should I start looking? I have a Hayes Manual, but the trouble shooting section doesn't cover this bad of an electrical failure.
yes..its the alternator....heres how you can find out very easy..jump the car as in power from another car and let the car run..turn off all the electronice as in radio and lights and then try to turn the lights off..if the car dies its the alt..this happened to me like one week ago..new batt and alt and she works perfect now
My wife posted the "Not the Alternator" message while I was out!
However, the battery in the car is brand spanking new. It has never even been used to start the car. (The reading from the voltmeter is 12.76, so I think this means it is fully charged.) Is it possible that the circut is broken at the alternator?
my alt was fused from the alt post to the battery positive..maybe yours blew if you have one. check the alt and make sure all wires are secure....check the ground to the chassis from battery and to motor from battery
Crank the car up, and get a reading while the car is running. Right before my alternator took a crap it was only charging 10.2v~
Now it charges 13.8-14v~
Unfortunately, the car will now not start. Before the electrical components all stopped working, I did get a reading on the previous battery while the car was running and it was up to 14.4 volts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_570
check the ground to the chassis from battery and to motor from battery
I did check the ground from chasis to battery with a red/green diode test light and the green light did come on, so there doesn't seem to be a problem there. When you say "to motor from battery", do you mean from the starter motor to the battery, or from the engine block to the battery?
Is this what happened? You turned the ignition switch on; all the dash lights came on. Then attempted to start the car and all power was lost. Your battery voltage is very good. I would recheck the battery cables and terminals at each end. Sometimes where the battery clamp connects to the cable becomes corroded.
A few suggestions:
Check for voltage at various points on the car, starter, fuses boxes, etc. The electrical system has a fusible link. Attempt to jumpstart the car, make sure the other cars is engine off to prevent voltage spikes and damage to the electronics. On the problem car, turn on the headlights before attempting to start it to also minimize voltage spikes. See what happens.
If you do get it running, check the voltage on the battery terminals with engine on and idle at say 2000 RPM. Should be approx 13.5 volts. If the voltage is the same as the new battery was, the alternator is not working.
Is this what happened? You turned the ignition switch on; all the dash lights came on. Then attempted to start the car and all power was lost.
Yup, that's what happened.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyomoho
Your battery voltage is very good. I would recheck the battery cables and terminals at each end. Sometimes where the battery clamp connects to the cable becomes corroded.
I replaced both the positive and negative the clamp connects, which reminds me of something I left out of the initial message. The original clamp connect on the negative terminal had two wires twisted together and crimpted together on the negative clamp connect. When installing the new clamp connect, I separated the wires and attached each of them to a separate bolt on the new clamp connect. I didn't figure it would make a difference, but then again, I didn't figure I would kill the circuit either!
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyomoho
A few suggestions:
Check for voltage at various points on the car, starter, fuses boxes, etc. The electrical system has a fusible link.
Do I check the voltage from the negative terminal to each of these points on the car?
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyomoho
Attempt to jumpstart the car, make sure the other cars is engine off to prevent voltage spikes and damage to the electronics. On the problem car, turn on the headlights before attempting to start it to also minimize voltage spikes. See what happens.
If you do get it running, check the voltage on the battery terminals with engine on and idle at say 2000 RPM. Should be approx 13.5 volts. If the voltage is the same as the new battery was, the alternator is not working.
Am I correct in taking "If the voltage is the same as the new battery was" to mean if the voltage is still at the 12.76 level?
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