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Originally Posted by punter
Its not that hard, if its your first time give yourself a whole weekend, to allow for learning experience, takes me about 4 hrs (cos i'm lazy and like to have beer at the same time)
I stole this from an NZ forum because its a good explanation. (Hope the author "RS13" doesn't mind )
Basically, it goes like this. (assuming you'd be like me, and use your parents garage!)
Jack car up.
On the gearbox side, remove wheel and shock.
Make sure the car is on axle stands, ie. well supported.
Remove starter motor, any attached hoses, and gearshift linkages.
Remove clutch cable/slave cylinder from side of gearbox.
Stick the cars' scissor jack under the gearbox.
Loosen engine/gearbox bolts. (I believe in Toyotas, there may be a crossmember under the engine/box that you have to remove; now is the time to do it, but make sure the scissor jack is solidly supporting the engine/box first!)
Remove any gearbox mounts (Its' a bitch in Hondas, to get the rear engine mount off, as you only have about 2 inches to fit the ratchet in!)
So now, the engine should be supported by the jack, and the engine mount on the other side of the engine bay. Now, undo the drain plug and empty the gearbox oil out; trust me, an oily, stinky puddle on the garage floor does NOT make for happy parents!
Now here's the tricky part, removing the driveshaft. One end should be clicked in the gearbox, the other should be bolted up to the hub. What I tend to do, is get the hub on as much angle as possible, so that I have lots of room to pull the CV out of the box. On some cars, you can just unbolt the CV from the driveshaft (so that the CV stays in the box), but in most you have to pull the whole CV out; its pretty well stuck in, so you might have to stick a flathead screwdriver in between box and CV to get it out of the circlip. Once it "clicks" out, just pull it out of the box.. it takes a fair bit of maneoveuring, but you should be able to tilt the hub enough to get the CV out of the box, and up out of the way. Tie it to the strut tower or something.
Now, there are several ways to do this; the best is with a car hoist, but we don't have one now, do we! Get another scissor jack (borrow it from your mates' car!) and stick this under the motor.. so basically, you have 2 jacks, one under the motor, and one under the box. Jack the motor up, and remove the one that was under the box. Your motor should be jacked up, and sitting on the mount on the other side.
Remove the engine/gearbox bolts. Note where they go (get a digicam or something) as most are different sizes, and a right bastard to find where they went!
Now, look around the gearbox, and make sure there is NOTHING attaching it to the motor; and make sure the flywheel plate is unbolted too, as it is stuck behind the flywheel. (the thin plate between the box and motor, for keeping crap out of the clutch assembly)
All good? Give it a wiggle. Hopefully, it should start to come apart off the motor, you may have to get the screwdriver out again to help it off the input shaft, dummy driveshaft.
Now, (this is what I like to do) get a few rags, and heap them in a pile under the box, like really stuff them in there. Now, if you sit with your legs either side of the box, and well clear of getting squashed, grab the box and pull it, or get a mate to hold it from the top. You might have to pry it, but if it REALLY doesn't wanna let go, check around it to make sure you haven't left anything attached. Otherwise, pry the sh*t out of it.
Hopefully, it should let go, and land in the pile of rags; well done that man! You should have the flywheel/clutch assembly in front of you.
Go have a DB.
Remove the 6 or 8 bolts from the clutch assembly, it should just fall off.
If its' pretty rooted, with purple/blue/orange heat spots on the flywheel, you'll need to remove the flywheel (6 bolts, normally 17/19mm, you may have to tap the ratchet with a hammer to get them undone), spend $30 at an engineers and get it machined flat again.
Now for the fun part; reinstallation!
Here's where a manual is useful; torque settings. Either roll down to the library to borrow a manual, or hunt around the internet, failing that, ring Toyota and hassle them for flywheel bolt torque measurements. Once you've done these up freakn tight with the torque wrench, bolt the new clutch assembly up with an alignment tool. (and don't forget to replace the thrust bearing!)
Hardest part is getting the box back onto the motor; you may have to get a clutch alignment tool (I just use a socket extension) to get the clutch plate centred. With that in the middle, you'll need to jiggle the box a bit to get it back on to the motor, it takes a while, and IMO is the hardest part of a clutch job.
Once you've wrestled it on, do the engine/box bolts back up, then do the opposite of taking it apart.
Once its' all bolted back together, just run through everything;
mounts done up?
Shift linkages reattached?
slave cylinder/cable reattached? (if you're doing a cable clutch, obviously you'll need to play around with the tension to get the right feel to the clutch pedal)
Gearbox oil? (I always forgot the first few times, lol)
With the shock reinstalled, and the wheel attached, let the car down.
If you've got a hydraulic clutch, bleed it. Get a mate to sit in the car, while you hold a 10mm(maybe 8mm) ring spanner around the nipple. Ask him to "pump and hold", get him to call it out; when he says "holding", on the end of his last pump, you need to loosen the nipple, and let a small amount of fluid bleed out, you need to retighten it before the fluid stops (so as not to get air in the lines.. basically this whole exercise is to get rid of any air). Do this a few times. Make sure you've tightened that back up, and topped up the clutch fluid.
Fire her up! Let it run for a second, check for no bad noises, vibrations, etc. If its' all sweet, leave the handbrake up, make sure there's nothing in front of you, put it in 1st and slip it gently until you feel it start to bite (so as to get used to where its' grabbing). Let the handbrake off.. and go for a drive!
Remember, clutches need to be bedded in; too much heat too fast, and the friction surface will disintegrate. Just go for a half hour drive, with lots of gentle launches.
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Replacing clutch in 1997 Toyota Levin BZR 6 Speed
Linear Mode
