ebay header

[sonyminidiscman]

My manifold is sort of leaking... so, I am looking into buying a ebay one...

anyone has trouble with them? i see some stainless steel ones and some with black ceramic coated...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-94...51970372QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97...48530319QQrdZ1




which ones are better?


Thanks for your help

[Bitter]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem

thats the one you want, it has the correct O2 sensor flange. the 7afe and 4afe headers are IDENTICAL, stock and otherwise. i had one just like it, it works fine and fits well, but i recomend you heat wrap it since the thinwall stainless puts out ALOT of heat.

that black coating is probably just spray paint and may not even last, heck they could just be covering the fact that its made from mild steel which isnt going to last as long as even low grade 304 stainless.

[Infinitrium]

Interesting...I see this auction includes the header and the downpipe (or whatever the hell it's called), gaskets and bolts. Total price to me (in Canada) is just 130 bucks. My 88 corolla needs that front exhaust pipe replaced and Canadian Tire has one for 112 plus tax, total cost around 128. Lol, for just a few bucks more I could get a header too!

[Bitter]

i'm not sure if that would fit your engine, the flange would but the way it sits may not work out, but if it looks similar to your stock parts then it should.

[94_Rolla_Guy]

if your not sure if the flange will work go to a parts store buy some stuff you need so they dont get pissed then ask for exhaust manifold gaskets for like a 91 and one for a 93-97 if your not sure,

Now technically the 7afe is about 15mm taller than the 4afe, I don't know if the 7afe header is taller or not or if there just sorta compromised to fit both engines???

Other than that i have had mine on for a while and it works well, i think they may have a tendancy to lean the engine out a little

[Bitter]

Originally Posted by 94_Rolla_Guy

if your not sure if the flange will work go to a parts store buy some stuff you need so they dont get pissed then ask for exhaust manifold gaskets for like a 91 and one for a 93-97 if your not sure,

Now technically the 7afe is about 15mm taller than the 4afe, I don't know if the 7afe header is taller or not or if there just sorta compromised to fit both engines???

Other than that i have had mine on for a while and it works well, i think they may have a tendancy to lean the engine out a little

iirc the stock headers are the same part number at dealers, but i could be wrong.

[96_9c1]

Originally Posted by Bitter

i recomend you heat wrap it since the thinwall stainless puts out ALOT of heat.

Heat wrapping will cause severe rustting.

The heat wrap traps condensation between the header and the wrap, which over time will make your header brittle.

If you plan on changing out your header every other year, wrap your header, if not pay a little more and get it coated

[Bitter]

was that stainless steel? it doesnt look like it was to me.

[96_9c1]

14 gauge aluminized, ceramic coated.

The header that you had listed doesnt give the kind of stainless that it is made from, so Im guess that it's not all that high on the stainless steel ladder.

Some types of stainless is more corrodable than others...

Stainless steel Grades
200 Series—austenitic chromium-nickel-manganese alloys
300 Series—austenitic chromium-nickel alloys
Type 301—highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Good weldability. Better wear resistance and fatigue strength than 304.
Type 302—same corrosion resistance as 304, with slightly higher strength due to additional carbon.
Type 303—easier machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur and phosphorous.
Type 304—the most common grade; the classic 18/8 stainless steel.
Type 309— better temperature resistance than 304
Type 316—the second most common grade (after 304); for food and surgical stainless steel uses; Alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. Also known as "marine grade" stainless steel due to its increased ability to resist saltwater corrosion compared to type 304. SS316 is often used for building nuclear reprocessing plants.
Type 321— superior weldability due to addition of titanium
400 Series—ferritic and martensitic chromium alloys
Type 408—heat-resistant; poor corrosion resistance; 11% chromium, 8% nickel.
Type 409—cheapest type; used for automobile exhausts; ferritic (iron/chromium only).
Type 410—martensitic (high-strength iron/chromium). Wear resistant, but less corrosion resistant.
Type 416— easy to machine due to additional sulfur
Type 420—"Cutlery Grade" martensitic; similar to the Brearley's original "rustless steel". Also known as "surgical steel". Excellent polishability.
Type 430—decorative, e.g., for automotive trim; ferritic. Good formability, but with reduced temperature and corrosion resistance.
Type 440—a higher grade of cutlery steel, with more carbon in it, which allows for much better edge retention when the steel is heat treated properly. It can be hardened to Rockwell 58 hardness, making it one of the hardest stainless steels. Also known as "razor blade steel". Available in three grades 440A, 440B, 440C (more common) and 440F (free machinable).
500 Series—heat resisting chromium alloys
600 Series—martensitic precipitation hardening alloys
Type 630—most common PH stainless, better known as 17-4; 17% chromium, 4% nickel

Im not saying that header is a bad header, just that wrapping it will over time cause it to become brittle.

Ask the Ebay seller if he will warrenty they header if its wrapped...

[Flashmn]

Wrapping wont do damage to a stainless header, I had mine wrapped.
Mildsteel will rust yes, but still I had to wrap mine, but I dont really mind, its made of very thick material

[sonyminidiscman]

what about a custom heat shield rather then heat wrapping it?

[sonyminidiscman]

should i go and buy the catback while i am at it?

but I really don't want that big muffler noise...

[TheOtherCarolla]

Buy the stainless header

1) make sure it has the bolt style flange. Mine had a screw in stud and the 02 sensor cost 150 bucks (yeah i was pissed)
2) it looks good

You can buy the catback and reuse the stock muffler if you want. All the pipes meet together in the stock location.

I would deff get the header, its makes a badass sound.

[Piloter]

What about high-temperature-painting the header, wrapping it, then giving THAT a couple good coats of paint? Sam of www.powerlabs.org has done that and considering this is a guy who messes about with kill-you-quick lasers and such he builds himself, he might know a thing or two about safety. Not necessarily about cars... (http://www.powerlabs.org/swappedimpreza.htm ) ...but it seemed like an interesting solution and worth inquiring about. (Yes, I may be needing a new Ebay header soonish.)

[Bitter]

Originally Posted by 96_9c1

14 gauge aluminized, ceramic coated.

The header that you had listed doesnt give the kind of stainless that it is made from, so Im guess that it's not all that high on the stainless steel ladder.

Some types of stainless is more corrodable than others...

Stainless steel Grades
200 Series—austenitic chromium-nickel-manganese alloys
300 Series—austenitic chromium-nickel alloys
Type 301—highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Good weldability. Better wear resistance and fatigue strength than 304.
Type 302—same corrosion resistance as 304, with slightly higher strength due to additional carbon.
Type 303—easier machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur and phosphorous.
Type 304—the most common grade; the classic 18/8 stainless steel.
Type 309— better temperature resistance than 304
Type 316—the second most common grade (after 304); for food and surgical stainless steel uses; Alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. Also known as "marine grade" stainless steel due to its increased ability to resist saltwater corrosion compared to type 304. SS316 is often used for building nuclear reprocessing plants.
Type 321— superior weldability due to addition of titanium
400 Series—ferritic and martensitic chromium alloys
Type 408—heat-resistant; poor corrosion resistance; 11% chromium, 8% nickel.
Type 409—cheapest type; used for automobile exhausts; ferritic (iron/chromium only).
Type 410—martensitic (high-strength iron/chromium). Wear resistant, but less corrosion resistant.
Type 416— easy to machine due to additional sulfur
Type 420—"Cutlery Grade" martensitic; similar to the Brearley's original "rustless steel". Also known as "surgical steel". Excellent polishability.
Type 430—decorative, e.g., for automotive trim; ferritic. Good formability, but with reduced temperature and corrosion resistance.
Type 440—a higher grade of cutlery steel, with more carbon in it, which allows for much better edge retention when the steel is heat treated properly. It can be hardened to Rockwell 58 hardness, making it one of the hardest stainless steels. Also known as "razor blade steel". Available in three grades 440A, 440B, 440C (more common) and 440F (free machinable).
500 Series—heat resisting chromium alloys
600 Series—martensitic precipitation hardening alloys
Type 630—most common PH stainless, better known as 17-4; 17% chromium, 4% nickel

Im not saying that header is a bad header, just that wrapping it will over time cause it to become brittle.

Ask the Ebay seller if he will warrenty they header if its wrapped...

theyre all 304 stainless runners, im not sure about the flanges.