Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE

[modestobulldog]

I previously posted my experiences changing the front struts. This message includes my experiences for both front and rear:



Originally posted 11-26-06:

I just finished changing the front struts on my 99 Corolla CE. I used the Haynes manual to guide me. Here are some tips not mentioned in the manual:

1. Make sure you have a 6 point 19mm standard socket (203 ft/lbs torque). You don't need a deep socket.
2. Make sure you have the biggest, baddest, meanest breaker bar for #1 above.
3. Make sure your torque wrench reaches 203 ft/lbs (thanks to Garth for loaning me his Snap-On torque wrench).
4. Order new rubber spring insulators (upper & lowers)
5. Order new dust seals.
6. Brake hose bracket used a 14MM (socket or wrench)
7. Top mount nuts are 12MM (preferably socket, but wrench will work)

My car has 215,000 miles and looks / runs like new. The shop quoted me $850 for installing 4 KYB GR2's and new front strut mounts. My car looks and runs like new so I decided to go all out buy new struts, factory springs and the factory mounts for the front only. After replacing fronts, both bearings in the strut mounts were seized, so I decided to replace the rear mounts with factory units (based on the condition of the front mounts). For some reason, both front dust seals failed on the original front mounts which I attribute the seized bearings to. Since I am delayed a week ordering mounts for the rear, I decided to order the dust seals and the rubber spring insulators for the rear as well. Since I didn't have the dust seals for the front, I had to improvise via bathroom rubber gaskets, thanks to Home Depot.

This was also my first time ordering auto parts online, I rate http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/disclaimer.html a perfect 10 for price, speed and service. Parts arrived quickly and packaged extremely well.

Bilstein stinks. Based on recommendations on this site, I tried to find some. Why do I have to wait darn near 3 months to receive Bilsteins? Did the shipment go down on the Titanic? Out of frustration trying to aquire Bilstein's, I decided to go with KYB GR2's. Stay away from this vendor: http://www.performancecenter.com/. They lie about availability (told me they had Bilstein's in stock (at least other vendors were honest - not available till Jan 2007). Took three weeks for KYB's to arrive (obviously another lie - they didn't have them in stock as represented). Also, they shipped the struts individually in the KYB box which is fine for shipping and stocking on auto parts store shelves, but not via UPS / Fed Ex. One strut was hanging out of the box, two other boxes were ripped. Two struts were scratched to where I am concerned, but don't have the patience to deal with those azzes again. Two of the nuts for the top of the strut were missing due to ripped boxes (cost $7.50 USD each at the local Toyota stealer). Also, shipped the wrong dust covers for the rear struts. Total incompetence. I still can't beleive they would ship the products in such a lousy way.

Everything else was pretty much by the book. Regardless of whether you change the springs or not, definitely get new Toyota strut mounts, dust seals, and rubber spring insulators (upper and lower).

I will update about my experiences changing the rear struts when done.



New post 12-26-06:

Comments on replacing rear struts on 99 Corolla CE:

1. Haynes manual, Chapter 10, Section 10, step 3 – my car used a 10mm line wrench to remove brake hose clip. This was the most frustrating part of the job. The brake line bracket on the strut is a solid round hole. I had to disconnect my brake line to remove the strut. This is a major omission in the Haynes manual. Since there was no mention in the manual and I never disconnected my brake line, I left the line disconnected while I changed my springs / struts. Unfortunately, I had to bleed my brakes and master cylinder when done. To avoid your master cylinder running low, reconnect the brake lines while you work on the struts & springs. Regardless, you will have to bleed the brakes to all 4 wheels, but if your master cylinder stays full, you won’t have to bleed the master cylinder as well. I know it makes sense to reconnect the lines while working on the struts & springs, but it would be nice for Haynes to mention this step in the manual.
2. Haynes manual, Chapter 10, Section 10, step 4 – my car used a 14mm wrench and a allen wrench to remove the stabilizer link. The first rear strut I used a wrench and pliers (not knowing about the allen head. Make sure you have the correct size allen wrench before starting the job.
3. The rear strut mounts do not have the built in bearing like the front mounts. It was a waste of time and money to purchase the rear strut mounts, the old ones were fine.



Good luck to all who attempt this project. Above all, put safety first. Compressed springs are dangerous. Do not have any body parts aligned with compressed springs. I sat in a chair with the struts and springs secured in a vertical position. Make sure car is supported securely on safe jack stands.

I am very pleased with the result. The car rides slightly firmer than new. I am very glad I installed new factory springs as well. The ride is fantastic even though not yet aligned. Going to get it aligned tomorrow.

New post 12-31-06:

I had the local Toyota dealer do a 4 wheel alignment on the car a couple of days ago. After a couple of days driving with the job 100% completed I noticed the suspension is significantly stiffer than original. With new factory springs and new KYB GR2 struts, the car is a tad stiffer than I personally would like.

Lower speeds under 50 mph - fantastic - speed bumps in parking lots, driving into gas stations, pot holes and normal pavement.

Highway speeds - smooth pavement and minor bumps are fantastic, however, on uneven surfaces, the ride becomes a tad jittery that I suspect would become somewhat tiresome on long trips.

[Isophorone]

Modestobulldog,

Thanks for posting the update. So did you buy a strut assembly that included the springs or not? If you did, does that save time on compressing them (and having to reconnect the brake lines? I am also confused as to whcih vendor you used to buy the parts and which struts you finally bought (front and rear). If I may ask, how much did you pay? Thanks.

Ron

[modestobulldog]

1sttoyota is a Toyota Dealer out of Seattle Washington that has a internet business. I highly rcommend them for any factory parts. I ordered the factory Toyota springs, strut mounts and rubber spring insulators from them. Excellent prices, shipped fast and packed with lots of bubble wrap so parts arrive in perfect condiiton.

I ordered the KYB GR2's from PerformanceCenter. Don't buy anything from them, they are liars and you will be lucky if the struts arrive intact in the box. If your 99 CE is like mine, you have KYB's installed from the factory. The KYB GR2's are slightly stiffer than the factory Toyota (KYB) struts. You can rent spring compressors from Autozone for free or buy for $40 or $49 for Craftsman at Sears, just be careful and follow the suggestions in the Haynes manual. i am happy with my KYB replacement struts. Just don't order them from Performance center.

The only assemblies I found were from Monroe. I wouldn't install Monroe's on my grandson's tricycle. Of course, buying a assembly will save time, but you have limited selection of brands. Another option is to remove the struts from the vehicle and take them to a shop to replace the springs, you might save $$ and get a better quality strut.

On the rear struts, I could not figure a way to do the job without disconnecting the brake lines. To check yours, jump to Haynes section 10-10-4. disconnect the clip and check the mount. If you can romove the brake line without disconnecting the line, then by all means do so. I couldn't figure a way.

BTW, my post is to be used as a supplement to the Haynes manual. I mainly noted omissions or clarifications to the manual.

[Isophorone]

Thanks again for the information. I think it was ghost_ryder35 who recommended a web site called rockauto.com. I looked there and they had rear strut assemblies by a few manufactirers, including KYB. Here is a link:

http://info.rockauto.com/KYB/Detail.html?234059.jpg

Does that include the spring, or can you tell?

Ron

[modestobulldog]

That is the strut only. Either use your old springs, mounts, boots & rubbers or order new ones. I just got back from having the car aligned at the dealer. I am 100% happy with the result. It rides & handles like a new car. Not bad for 216,000 miles.

Keep in mind, I wasn't necessarily looking for the cheapest replacement, I wanted better than the shop was going to do and thankfully, I was successful.

[modestobulldog]

Updated original post for post 4 wheel alignment results.

[diver9000]

.com can get eibach or intrax springs, as well as the kyb struts if you need them. If you have the money go with koni struts. Tire rack has H&R springs. There are a bunch of places to get springs as well as struts. I wouldnt buy monroe either.

[modestobulldog]

I am done with this project. It was a learning experience. I did not want lowered springs and all I found aftermarket was lowering springs.

Are KYB GR2's sopposed to be firmer than the original KYB Nitrogen filled struts? It seems so to me.

[diver9000]

I cant say that so much. Its more like they work better with performance springs than OEM struts do. If you have competition springs or sport springs than sure your ride will feel stiffer. The only way to tell would be to put them on with OEM springs and see.

[elle]

Thanks Modestobulldog for that informative post. I truly appreciate it. Elle