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Old 12-29-2006, 10:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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how to tell if automatic transmission is bad

in a manual, an easy way to tell if the transmission is going out if it's real hard to push in the shift stick. But, in an automatic transmission, how could you tell if the auto transmission is going bad or is bad?
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd check the fluid. If it looks bunt or smells burned then you can be sure the transmission is bad.
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Old 12-29-2006, 01:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good ATF is very pink, very clear and has not much of an odor.
Is your dark, opaque and burnt smelling?
I change mine when it loses its clearness.
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Old 12-29-2006, 01:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice
in a manual, an easy way to tell if the transmission is going out if it's real hard to push in the shift stick. But, in an automatic transmission, how could you tell if the auto transmission is going bad or is bad?

If it wont move then you will know.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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^what about one that is going out? i mean if it wont move, then i know its needs to be replaced, but how can i tell if its going to fail on me soon?

as for the fluid, lets say..........cant a salesman hide it by putting in new fluids?
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if you think the dealer is going to screw you, then ask him to give you a warranty on the tranny and see what he says.....
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Old 12-29-2006, 04:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If takes an abnormally long time to go into gear, slips between gears or sometimes doesn't shift at all then that's usually a good sign a tranny is messed up, although sometimes a fluid flush and filter change can lessen those problems.
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Old 12-29-2006, 05:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^I agree, I test drove an automatic Accord for a buddy of mine before, I figured I'd test it and find any problems with it he would not buy it. When I would take off in first gear, the car would hesitate for a second and then move forward instead of moving right away like ANY automatic would so I knew the transmission was bad.

I get back to the dealership and my buddy had already signed every paper the dealer had thrown at him, so the car was basically his now I told the dealer about the problem and he said "don't worry we'll check it out" Sure enough 6months later the transmission blew on him and it cost him quite a bit of money to replace it.
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Automatic Transmission

Go to empty parking lot, Park your car in empy lot with lots of room back n forth.
Start the car
Put the car in N- nuetral precisely and jump on gas. Ideally it should not move except engine roars. If car moves either front or back then only it's transmission.

OK.

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Old 12-30-2006, 12:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie*
Go to empty parking lot, Park your car in empy lot with lots of room back n forth.
Start the car
Put the car in N- nuetral precisely and jump on gas. Ideally it should not move except engine roars. If car moves either front or back then only it's transmission.

OK.

reg
bonnie*
i'm sorry, thats not a test at all. all that'll tell you is if something is fused together or if the linkage to the manual valve is messed up.

the best tests are fluid checks, inspect the pan for clutch material or metal debris, DRIVE IT! If it feels like its slow to shift, slips, hesitates, etc theres probably a problem.
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Old 12-30-2006, 12:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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if it slips like a bitch then you know there is a problem there, in m 240sx the color of the tranny fluid looked like the clutch fluid which was freaking bad, it never moved until I did a 5 speed swap
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Old 12-30-2006, 04:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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For what it is worth, here is my oil change routine on my 01 Prizm LSI and 99 Corolla CE:

Every 3,000 - 4,000 miles I change the engine oil/filter and remove the drain plug in the 4 speed automatic transmission(3.5 quarts ATF to refill). Draining the ATF adds a couple of minutes to the job. Every two years I change the automatic transmission screen.

Two days ago I changed the screen, with 216,000 miles, the inside of the transmission looks like new - bright and shiny, no discoloration and minimal metal flecks in the pan.

I also use a FilterMag http://www.filtermag.com/products.php on my engine oil filter. I am considering adding the transmission magnet as well.

Cost of routine oil change:

4 quarts of Chevron Supreme 5W-30 motor oil from Kragen ($0.59 USD after rebate)

$2.36 USD

3.5 Quarts of Chevron Dextron III / Mercon ATF

$6.27 USD

Sales Tax 7.375 % Stanislaus County

$0.78 USD

Subtotal $11.41 USD

Toyota Oil Filter from http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/ $3.90 USD

Total $13.31 USD

A lot of guys invest in synthetic motor oil which is great, but transmission repairs are not cheap. If cost is a factor, use my approach and you will minimize the chances of needing transmission repair.

Last edited by modestobulldog; 12-30-2006 at 04:35 PM.
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