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Old 01-03-2007, 09:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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93-97 waterpump issues

am i the only one on here with a 7afe that needs to replace the waterpump and/or waterpump gasket every year?? actually for me, it's been 2 times a year!!! I'm on my 4th(or is it 5th now) waterpump repair! half was the waterpump itself, coolant was leaking from the wep hole, and the other half repairs was on the gasket!! and guess what? it's leaking again!!! $#%$^$%^$%#$!!!!!!! Although I've noticed a pattern in cold weather is when it starts to leak here in the midwest, perhaps the gasket gets weak in cold winter weathers?? otherwise summer driving seems fine most of the time. Car does not heat or anything like that, just losing coolant in the reservior and radiator.

Last edited by rice; 01-03-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 01-03-2007, 09:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe you keep pinching the gasket when you put it on, and or you should try replacing it with a OEM waterpump instead of an aftermarket one (assuming you are using a Checker, Napa, Autozone pump).
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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^the dealers told me even the oem gasket is paper, called every place, they're all paper
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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use silicone sealer around it instead of the gasket or with the gasket
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Old 01-05-2007, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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about a year ago you replaced the whole water pump if i remember corectly... when you did did the pump come complete with the back half or was it a non toyota pump that only included the front?.....

It may be possible that the mating surfaces aren't flat causing the gaskets to fail...

I just looked my OEM pump on my old engine, has one of those ruberized steel gaskets, try another dealership you may find they offer you the proper gasket....
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice
^the dealers told me even the oem gasket is paper, called every place, they're all paper
dude read what i posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost_ryder35
maybe you keep pinching the gasket when you put it on, and or you should try replacing it with a OEM waterpump instead of an aftermarket one (assuming you are using a Checker, Napa, Autozone pump).
i never said anything about paper gaskets. i was getting at what 94_rolla is getting at the oem toyota pump is better and easier to work with, the aftermarket waterpumps are just the front half of the water pump, they dont come with the baking. if you buy from the dealer it comes as one piece and you wont have to fuck with the gasket just the 0 ring by the water intlet pipe to the back of the waterpump and the 0 ring to the block and no waterpump gasket
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Old 01-06-2007, 01:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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theres not too might tension on the belt? mine failed cause i manually tensioned it too much.
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Old 01-06-2007, 02:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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im assuming the oem waterpump from the dealers is $200+, i didn't wanna go that route, I'll probably find a junked one instead. 94_rolla_guy, are you sure its a steel gasket? even the dealers said it was paper, but if your old waterpump still work, i'll buy it from ya, 7afe or 4afe? if i remember, it shouldn't matter, right?

Last edited by rice; 01-06-2007 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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the gasket is one of those rubberized steel gaskets on my spare engine.. i think the water pump is $120 cdn so it shouldn't be too bad.. sometimes dealers revise parts or use off brands for what ever reasons, so if your not satisfied try another dealer sometimes the parts will be different.. Also watch the stupid O-ring gasket to the block, when i got mine it was smaller and didn't seal properly it was a revised multi-fit part, i had to take it apart cause it leaked and add RTV


that old water pump has like 170K on it i wouldn't recomend....
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I just pulled a 7afe motor that threw a rod. the top half of the motor is fine. Make me an offer on the waterpump and its yours. Contact me through pm if you're interested.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice
im assuming the oem waterpump from the dealers is $200+, i didn't wanna go that route, I'll probably find a junked one instead. 94_rolla_guy, are you sure its a steel gasket? even the dealers said it was paper, but if your old waterpump still work, i'll buy it from ya, 7afe or 4afe? if i remember, it shouldn't matter, right?
LOL. do some research dude. It's $90 bucks after tax at the dealer, and if you keep replacing it why not go that route so you dont have to replace it any more? or cheap toytaparts.com has it listed for $66 plus shipping. (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...94&catalogid=1)
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Old 01-07-2007, 04:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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^are you sure it's for the whole waterpump? the local napa, advance auto, checkers, etc around here sell waterpumps under $100, but like 94_rolla was saying, it only includes the half with the blades and not the other half, and i've replaced that half 2-3 times already.
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Old 01-07-2007, 05:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Next time you change the waterpump, make sure the surface is clean. Could be a piece of gasket or something might have become stuck to the surface. Dont use a gasket this time; use the black high height RTV and make your own gasket. I would go with an OEM waterpump too.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice
^are you sure it's for the whole waterpump? the local napa, advance auto, checkers, etc around here sell waterpumps under $100, but like 94_rolla was saying, it only includes the half with the blades and not the other half, and i've replaced that half 2-3 times already.
the ones napa and autozone and checker etc... are selling are $50 bucks. go to the dealer and pick up a quality waterpump and save your self the headache and or take a razor and clean the surface on the motor before trying to put the pump on and feel it to make sure there are no imperfections. then use a torque wrench and torque everything down to spec. you should have a problem.
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Last edited by ghost_ryder35; 01-08-2007 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:11 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost_ryder35
then use a torque wrench and torque everything down to spec. you should have a problem.
What ghost meant was that you should not have a problem
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