But you still want your car to run optimum. I'm used to setting timing on older v8s, but engines are generally the same. If the motor gets bumped around, find tdc compression stroke on cyl #1, find where cyl #1 is on the cap, point the rotor tword that slot and bolt everything in as it came out. This will be at tdc. Mark tdc on your balencer with whiteout. Start the car up, throw a timing light on it, check your manual for factory timing specs, for instance 6º btdc, hit the balencer with your light, it should hit right at tdc, the white line, turn the distributor back until its at 6º, tighten down your dizzy hold down bolts.
PLS. CAN U DESCRIBE THE SYMPTOMS OF BAD DISTRIBUTOR OR BAD COILS OR BAD SPARK PLUG WIRES.
AND FINALLY ONCE YOU RESOLVE YOUR PROBLEM, COME-OUT WITH DETAILED PROCEDURE WITH POSSIBLE PART-SOURCING, THAT WOULD BE GREAT FOR THE REST MEMBER TO FOLLOW IN FUTURE, JUST IN CASE.
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bonnie*
ALWAYS TRY TO SOLVE RATHER THAN CREATE A NEW ONE!!!
PLS. CAN U DESCRIBE THE SYMPTOMS OF BAD DISTRIBUTOR OR BAD COILS OR BAD SPARK PLUG WIRES.
AND FINALLY ONCE YOU RESOLVE YOUR PROBLEM, COME-OUT WITH DETAILED PROCEDURE WITH POSSIBLE PART-SOURCING, THAT WOULD BE GREAT FOR THE REST MEMBER TO FOLLOW IN FUTURE, JUST IN CASE.
the Distributors going bad: sort of like somone swiching the ignition on and off while driving. you will get a hard kick like the engine locks up and then fores and jumps forward. it wil be violent sudden jerks.... sometimes it worse when going uphill.
Bad Plug Wires, will leave the engine firing on only part of the spark plugs... probably 3 out of 4 cylynders running,, and one cylynder will act dead. When you have the ngine at idle, with parking brake in nuetral, you can pull the plug wires, with good pair of glaves so you don't get shocked. Pull one, see if engine runs worse. If there is no change... that cylinder is not firing. But, it can be intermittent, and have a miss in a cylinder at any speeds. Either sitting still or both sitting still and/or while driving. Spark Plug will show dark color black soot, gas not burning.
What you guys that need this info really need to invest in a cheapo auto repair manaual...
Last edited by retiredat44; 01-14-2007 at 05:26 PM.
Bonnie,my coil had gone bad about 3 times before i smartened up and bought the lifetime warranty coil.Changing it out that many times had weakened the already brittle wires in the distributor.This last time i took it out all of the wires were breaking in half.Luckily i found a used distributor on ebay including the coil for $35 shipped to my door.It doesnt sound like this will be very hard to change out as long as i take my time and mark exactly where this thing goes in.
On the distributer shaft there are two blades/wings that can only go into the cam slots one way because they are off-set from center.
If you are putting the same distributer back you need to mark the head and distributor housing as was said before, to reduce the need to re-check your timing. If you are putting a different distributer on, find some sort of reference point on the old dis. housing and put a mark in line with it on the cylinder head, so you can use it as a reference point for the replacement dis.
When putting the new one in, take the cap off and turn the rotor while inserting the dis. into the head. When the blades align with the cam shaft slots, it should slip right in. Next, try to align the housing reference point with the mark you made on the head. This should bring you close to the original timing that was there before, but you will probably still want to set it with a timing light.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
I like top place some engine oil on the O-ring before I slide the shaft back into the head ont he end of the camshaft. just puts some on your finger, or on a papaer towel and apply the oil to the o-ring on the disctrib shaft before putting it on.
Just thought i'd say that you should never put oil on o-rings since oil will rot out the rubber, unless they are designed to have some oil on them. Just a thought.
Just thought i'd say that you should never put oil on o-rings since oil will rot out the rubber, unless they are designed to have some oil on them. Just a thought.
The o-ring, on the dictributor, goes into the head, on the end of the camshaft. There is lots of oil in there... that is why it's there..
the oil mkes it easy when you pre-lube it, so it slips in easiers, to keep from tearingt it,, it's a tight fit.. once in the and the engine starts, that oil ring keep the oil from spraying out of the head....
and in case I dind't say this before,,, when you take the distributor cap off, mark the exact location of the rotor. the roter will not come witht he new dictributor... and you must put it back on int he same exact position when you put the new one bac in. The slot on the end of the shaft int he end with the cap must be int he same exact position it was before removed. You will not be able to mark anything, so put the information down on a notepad with a pen. Make a diagram.. showing the firing end of the rotor and the postion with picture and what degree it was at:
ex: 90 degrees... or 3 o'clock
Last edited by retiredat44; 01-15-2007 at 11:16 AM.
retiredat44,can i reuse the O ring or are these pretty easy to find?
it comes on the new distrib.. already on there..
only parts that do not come on the dictributor are, the plastic cover over the coil.... and the rotor..
those two items you remove, besides, you will do an exchange anyways.... just compare the 2 at the time of exchange,,, they keep the old one unless you want to pay core charge,, something like $50..0
Last edited by retiredat44; 01-15-2007 at 03:56 PM.
Always use a new "O" ring if possible. A few cents or dollars is worth the peace of mind.
At one of my old jobs we had posters that said "Never enough time to do it right, but always time to do it over"
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
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