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Old 01-12-2007, 07:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need help replacing distributor on 95 1.8

I have to pull the entire distributor on my 95 for reasons i wont get into now.Anyway it looks like there are only 2 bolts holdin it in the engine.Does it go in a certain way and is there anything i need to know?My new distributor isnt here yet so i am trying to do the research to be ready when it comes in.Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2007, 10:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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look up directions on autozone.com the website has instructions for parts on cars on how to r&r parts...

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Old 01-13-2007, 05:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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It Shloud Be 3 Bolts, It Has To Go-in Exactly Same Position As You Pull Out Bad Ones. Do Not Disturb Position Key. Cylinder Numbers Are Marked On Distributor Cap.

Visit Autozone Site For Detailed Procedure.
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Old 01-13-2007, 11:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi retiredat44

Suddenly I went across the information you need on autozone web-site. Here is the link for detailed procedure with PICS for distributor replacement.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d80169cd2.jsp


Hope you will be successful for the replacement.
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Old 01-13-2007, 12:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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JUST A SILLY QUESTION:

DO YOU USE OEM SPARK PLUG ? HOW OFTEN YOU REPLACE THEM?
RECOMMENDED ID TO REPLACE EVERY 1OOK kms.
MAY BE FAULTY SPARK PLUG OR FAULTY SPARK PLUG WIRES CAN CAUSE DAMAGES TO DISTRIBUTOR.

BRAND
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Old 01-13-2007, 12:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Bonnie,thanks so much for that info.It doesnt seem bad at all now.The reason it needs a new dizzy is because a while back the car had problems with the coil that mounts under the cap.I went thru 3 or 4 and eventually the wires that connect to the coil got so brittle that all but 1 broke off to the point that i couldnt solder them back together.This seems to be the only solution.Also,i only paid $20 for the replacement distributor so its not bad at all.There is a lesson in all of this.Buy the good quality coil and not the cheap ones.This would have stopped these brittle wires from doing this.
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Old 01-13-2007, 06:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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better is to replce the wires, eventhough expensive coz spark plug wires are high tension and high resistance, it's just not ordinary copper wires.
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Old 01-13-2007, 10:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You should take some finger nail polish and mark the block, where the distributor sits, before you remove it. That way when when you put in back in you can find the marks you put on the block to put it back exactly where it was. I prefer using white paint, easy to see, use the small brush and paint and mark the block in the front where the distrib and the block meet. Also where the point is on the Dicstributor points toward the hump on the valve cover is another good place to leave a mark.

This way you will not end up needing to retime the engine.



Also, get a paper pad and write down the placement of any vacuum hoses you remove off the vacuum advance.

Last edited by retiredat44; 01-14-2007 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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retiredat44,i thought going by the link provided that the distributor could only go in one way thus eliminating any chance of screwing it up?I will definitely mark everything i can.ALso,i havent seen any vacuum lines on my 7afe.Do they have them or is it just the 4afe?Thanks for bringing this up you might have just saved me a huge headache!
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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the key part inside the engine car turn, which would cause the car to misfire incredibly bad and probally not run if it was mis-aligned, thats why you should mark it
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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350TPI vbmenu_register("postmenu_1590899", true); stay in touch with retiredat44 vbmenu_register("postmenu_1592369", true); coz he is on same job now and he has gone thru' same thing in the past as well. So, apart from the procedure, he can guide you very properly based upon his personal experience.

GOOD LUCK TO BOTH YOU GUYS!!! COME OUT SMILING---->

P:S: DO NOT FORGET TO CLOSE THE POST BY POSTING YOUR PRACTICAL HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE, WHICH MAY BE GUIDELINES FOR THE REST TO FOLLOW.
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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iF YOU LOOK MORE CLOSELY AT THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR KEY ON THE PART GOING INSIDE ENGINE, THRERE IS A LITTLE GROVED NOTCH ON THE TOP ONE END WHILE OTHER END'S TOP IS FLAT. TRY TO ORIENT THIS IN EXACTLY SAME AS ONE YOU PULL OUT BAD ONE. THERE WON'T BE ANY PROBLEM.
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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some cars, have gears on the end and you had to find the esact tooth, out of up to maybe 16 or motre teeth on the shaft. These Toyota distributors have a shaft with a slot. Worse thing that could happen if at all is be 180 degrees off... but if you mark the exact postions, it's almost fool proof. I like top place some engine oil on the O-ring before I slide the shaft back into the head ont he end of the camshaft. just puts some on your finger, or on a papaer towel and apply the oil to the o-ring on the disctrib shaft before putting it on.

The idiots at the factory, who put the coils in the dictributor had the wirers twisted on the coil wires holders, so the white wire was not in its slotted holder. I had to undue one wire and place it under the other and put it back on and tighten the screw,, so, take a look at everything before you put it on the car..



also, make sure you take the post off the battery terminal so you don't have any live fire coming tot he distributor whyile you r&r it.

Last edited by retiredat44; 01-14-2007 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:04 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350TPI
retiredat44,i thought going by the link provided that the distributor could only go in one way thus eliminating any chance of screwing it up?I will definitely mark everything i can.ALso,i havent seen any vacuum lines on my 7afe.Do they have them or is it just the 4afe?Thanks for bringing this up you might have just saved me a huge headache!

marking the distributor postion with a touch of paint, or even chalk, if you don't have paint..
the mark is to keep the timing where it was. so you dont have to re-time the engine, advance or retard the timing by turning the distributor. That can be a real nightmare, especially if the timing is off and and you go through a smog inspection and fails it will end up costing you lots of money to adjust if you fail.

Last edited by retiredat44; 01-14-2007 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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smog tests suck. glad wisconsin is smog test free
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