Just flushed my transmission fluid due to a jerk whenever shifting between gears (only when accelerating not vice versa). And the shifting did get a little better but there is still a definate kick when shifting, btw it is a automatic. So I messed with the throttle cable and when I moved the bolt towards the hood, the jerk turned into a nice shifting car. But, in return for smooth shifting, whenever I put the car in drive, from ANY gear it has a delay into switching into the gear(2 seconds) and when it does switch the car jerks hard. So as you assume, moving the bolt back to normal or even further down towards the ground, the jerk is not nearly as hard but is still there. So what could maybe be the problem and solution? Do you think messing with idle might solve the problem? It doesn't sound like its idling high, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to try. And the transmission fluid is at the proper level.
Thanks in advance!
Oh, and has anyone tried to tint your lights? Like to black or just a darker shade, with tint material. I don't know if it's possible or not, maybe someone can enlighten me
Last edited by bluecressida; 02-08-2007 at 06:16 PM.
I assume your talking about the transmission TV cable on the throttle body. This is not an adjustment. This controls the oil pressure of your transmission, but by loosening the tension your running your transmission with low oil pressure and damaging the transmission. This was somethin you could do years ago with older transmissions, but this is big no no.
The throttle body screw is adjustment screw is not an idle adjustment either. The idle is controlled by the ECM. In most cases you just screw up the ECM to control your idle properly. The only adjustment is if you turn it high that ECM can't control the idle anymore.
Yes I am talking about the throttle body. Well it's adjusted back to the normal position, but is there any hope for diagnosing the kick whenever shifting from park to drive? It's minimal, but its there.
And how positive are you that the throttle body cable controls oil pressure? I know everythign is mainly controlled by a main computer but there still is some stuff left to adjust. Just a thought, thanks though for the advice
Well since another sign has pointed to motor mounts, I guess I'll start digging for them. I think alot of the problems are due to it (vibration inside car, thunking, thunking shifting). I have a haynes repair book but I really havn't located the part where it shows a diagram for motor mounts.
If you by any chance have a clue where there at, could you direct me please
Open your hood, have some stand next to your car. Start your engine and brake torque it (gas & brake) in forward and reverse. The should move a little bit, if you moves alot the mount are broken.
Well since another sign has pointed to motor mounts, I guess I'll start digging for them. I think alot of the problems are due to it (vibration inside car, thunking, thunking shifting). I have a haynes repair book but I really havn't located the part where it shows a diagram for motor mounts.
If you by any chance have a clue where there at, could you direct me please
Thanks for all the help
Get the car up on ramps, or jack it up and put jack stands in place. Take off the plastic splash shields that are under your engine and transmission.
Get under the car on a creeper or just crawl.
There is a bar/brace/sub frame member running lengthwise of the car right under the engine oilpan. At either end of this frame member, on top, you should fine your fwd and aft mounts. Either of these being bad could be the source of your problem.
These are supposed to restrict the rocking action that occurs opposite to torque loads being applied to the driveline.
Try to do this search with the engine as cool as possible. They are near the exhaust pipe.
Good luck.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
Thanks guys for all the help! And as for checking the motor mounts, how does someone check to see if its moves to much if you are gasing and breaking in drive or reverse? Maybe I'm just thinking to hard on it. And as for the layout you gave me Donald, does that pertain to a 98 corolla? Just checkin to be on the safe side
Thanks guys for all the help! And as for checking the motor mounts, how does someone check to see if its moves to much if you are gasing and breaking in drive or reverse? Maybe I'm just thinking to hard on it. And as for the layout you gave me Donald, does that pertain to a 98 corolla? Just checkin to be on the safe side
Honestly, I am not sure about the '98, I have never looked up under one. I was thinking about the earlier models. But even if it is different, I shouldn't think it would be that much. I think once you look underneath the car, you will recognise the mounts when you see them.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
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