Help with 20v AFM Idle

[aarong420]

Well i've got it running, and it idles ok, untill i plug in the AFM, it just loses rpm and dies. When i hold open the flap inside a little it seems to steady. I tried adjusting the screw on the AFM, but it doesnt seem to do anything. What do i do next?

Also the original airbox cant fit in the little space i have in the ae92. Do they sell adapters for this, or would i have to make one?

[toyotaspeed90]

uh.... i don't think any of us can help you with this one..... especially since you give little information other than:

1) if your afm isn't plugged in and the engine runs... then there is DEFINITELY some wiring issues.... the fuel pump is supposed to run through the afm wiring, and if your pump is turned on w/o the afm plugged in.... you have problems

2) if you've pulled out the glue that holds the adjusting screw in place in the afm... then the afm is probably useless now....

[aarong420]

ok well why dont u tell me what you need to know, since i gave such little info then?
and the screw im talking about didnt have "glue" in it in the first place. If it did i wouldnt have touched it.
BTW why is it called an "adjusting screw", if it cannot be adjusted?

[toyotaspeed90]

it's adjusted from factory, then glued in..... someone before you has screwed with the afm....

i would start by checking over the AFM wiring.....

[aarong420]

will do. previous to this, the f/pump never used to prime, only used to switch on constant once the car was on...i guess this is for the same reason.
Do you by chance know the factory setting?, how many turns ?

[Piloter]

You might be able to fix this with a friend's car (or some technical data) and a voltmeter...find out how many volts a stock AFM is putting out when it's fully opened, then adjust the screw on yours to reflect that.

Or does the adjustment screw not doink around with output voltage?

[toyotaspeed90]

couldn't tell you what exactly it's for.... some have said it's the fuel req'd signal sent to the ecu based off of a "14.7" setting on the screw and where the afm flapper door is at.....

but i've never messed with it for good reason....

your FP probably turned on because map based motors prime the pump once there are ignition events.....

[aarong420]

the guy who wired the car gave me a black an red wire to connect to the f/pump. Someone on this site told me the wire that goes to the f/p is a green wire with a red stripe. When i got the f/pump, and connected the wire to the black and red wire, the pump never came off, meaning that it was a wire coming directly from the battery which is obviously the wrong wire.
im yet to try the green and red wire as sugested from TN.
So far ive tracked some wires and made some connections, but the car is burning very rich, and still does not work with the AFM connected.

[aarong420]

Originally Posted by Piloter

You might be able to fix this with a friend's car (or some technical data) and a voltmeter...find out how many volts a stock AFM is putting out when it's fully opened, then adjust the screw on yours to reflect that.

Or does the adjustment screw not doink around with output voltage?

The screw has no wires connectiond to it, its probly just a simple air bypass screw. If it did thou the volt meter would probly be a good way to tune.
They have so many people who can wire these cars all over the internet but noone willing to help, money is a mothafawkr.

[aarong420]

I pulled down the wiring going into the ECU today to check to see if i found the corosponding wire colors coming from the AFM. They seem to be coming from the harness in the engine bay and going to the 16 pin connection in the ECU. When i got the engine, ECU and harness. That is how it came. No wires from that were cut.
For the 12 Pin connection "which has 10 wires", most of those were cut, some of the un-cut wires go to a greentop circuit opening relay, and other cut wires, to a big looking black connection "9 wires", and a similar looking grey connection "15 wires".

[aarong420]

Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90

couldn't tell you what exactly it's for.... some have said it's the fuel req'd signal sent to the ecu based off of a "14.7" setting on the screw and where the afm flapper door is at.....

but i've never messed with it for good reason....

your FP probably turned on because map based motors prime the pump once there are ignition events.....

this is not a black top 20v, only black top is map based.

[aarong420]

I need to know how to tell if the AFM is working properly or not, so that i would know if its faulty wiring "which i think it is", or if its the AFM.
Someone told me if the AFM isnt connected the car should run because the f/pump runs though it, but i put my f/pump to run through a seprate switch. Is that the only reason the car shouldnt work with it not connected?. Because when i connect the AFM the car shuts off.
What does this sound like? I connected the f/pump to the green wire / red stripe, coming from the AFM, which is supposed to be the correct one, and the relay clicks which i think closes the circuit. But the f/pump does not prime or run on ignition or start.

[aarong420]

"Yes people, well it was the ISCV that was the problem, also the contacts uin the AFM were not touching, dont know why....but they went so, fixed that....and it works...just got to get down the idle a bit and should be ok.