ok, I'm in mid timing belt change on my 4A-F and I need to get the crank pulley off. are there any ways to do it so that I wouldn't need an impact wrench or a special tool that I would have to go out and buy (harmonic balancer removal thing)?
on some cars you can put a breaker bar on the bolt, rest it on something and go and blip the throttle, would you be able to do this on a 4A-F, does the engine spin the right way (clockwise)?
any other ways to do it that you guys know about?
thanks.
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Even if you did, you would go get a loaner one free from AutoZone, or some other auto parts store that lets you get a loaner tool... (you pay and when you return it they give your money back..)
and again, you don't need to pull it off,, the belt comes off by going around the pulley....
Yes you do.
Theres a plastic cover and the timingbelt cant be taken off with that on.
You see the two small holes in that. Thats for the toyota SST (special service tool), but you can make your own M8 bolts and drill a them onto a flatstock metal bar and then you can keep the pulley still while you use a breaker bar to open the bolt.
I am doing the same thing today as well. The Haynes man also says you can remove the starter and put a big screwdriver into one of the slots on the flywheel ring gear to hold the crank in place while you loosen the bolt. You may need to have someone hold that for you while you break the bolt loose.
You need a breaker bar of sorts. Bar with the needed size socket on the end. Put it on the nut holding the pully on with the bar against the floor and give the engine a couple cranks with the spark wires removed
You see the two small holes in that. Thats for the toyota SST (special service tool), but you can make your own M8 bolts and drill a them onto a flatstock metal bar and then you can keep the pulley still while you use a breaker bar to open the bolt.
how does this keep the pulley still? does it screw into the block too or something?and if that was the case, would I even need the metal bar? couldn't I just screw bolt in or maybe just use a screw driver?
Quote:
Originally Posted by canadiancelica
You need a breaker bar of sorts. Bar with the needed size socket on the end. Put it on the nut holding the pully on with the bar against the floor and give the engine a couple cranks with the spark wires removed
are you sure this works? I've done this on my rx-7 before, but I'm not sure if the corolla's engine spins that way. does it spin the same way as the wheels? or the oposite way because the transmission changes the direction?
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'01 Impreza 2.5 RS - Mud flaps, skid plates, Gravel Dampers
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Megasquirt-3 - 270 rwhp
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4AGE ST 20V 6spd LSD, Megasquirt II, Koni Race Dampers + GroundControls + camber plates F/R, GT-S Rear brakes
'81 BMW R65 For Sale: GT-S strut bar + Front GT-S koni yellows
I did this a few months ago. The flat bar is your other wrench. You bolt that to the pulley and then you can rest one end of it on something solid while you loosen the bolt. You have to do more than drill the clearence holes for the M8's though. You also need a clearence hole for the socket to loosen the bolt.
I didn't try bumpin the engine with a breaker bar on it. It scares me too much, but I'm sure it would work.
starter trick works on toyotas.... not hondas.......
do not give it a "couple turns".... click the starter over once.... that should break it free.... the pulley itself should be able to walk off relatively easily
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It is possible, mine came off easy and so it left not much of a memory or impression in my mind... but like I said, I am on heavy medication with severe health problems, so my memory maybe messed up...
But, yeah, pulling the plastic (cheap crappy plastic) off... you need to pul it... and there is the woodruff key, that keeps it locked into place....
I usually take an impact gun to remove nuts on heavy objects.. there is no need to lock the shaft down, the Air Impact gun spins the bolt of nut off with no need to hold the shaft in place. But prying can, and will bend pulleys and they will never spin true again..
you also want to make sure the puller won't pull itself into the head of you crank. That sucks had to track down a tap big enough to tap the head on my old truck. For a couple of bucks I say buy a good puller kit. YOu can justify it because they usually cost less than 1 hour's labor charges depending on where you live
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