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Old 04-03-2007, 07:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Axle Removal

I have a 1991 Corolla. I'm replacing both axle/cv joints. The passenger side replacement went great. The driver side is a nightmare. I can not get this axle to come out. The screwdriver/crowbar method isn't working. I was prying while my son was pulling and we managed to pull the axle apart at the inner joint. I'm afraid with all the prying I might be creating further issues like leaking when finished. I'd have the darn thing back on the road in twenty minutes if I could get the axle out. Any suggestions? I need to get this car back on the road so I can end my shuttle service for my son.
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Old 04-03-2007, 09:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Can't help you, as it will pop out when it's ready,, you probably did everything correctly... (well maybe not, if you pulled the joints apart....) they sell some very nice pry bar sets for about $40.00. Though I got away with a screw driver. butt it's a crappy way to do it...
you really should replace the axle flange seals.. if you have not... as you will be very sad if you leave the old one in, and they end up leaking... (when putting them in, you must tap them into place with extreme care..)
When you go to buy them, you might get asked which models of trans you have, have that info handy.. (they might not have them in stock, call around, some stores can get them overnight,, others take up to a week...)


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Old 04-04-2007, 08:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The job is a pain in the neck. For me, a pry bar worked better than a crowbar.
http://www.corolland.com/forums/inde...opic=19128&hl=
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Same experience here on a 90 and again on 95. Ended up using the ball joint splitter fork tool to get it off. Use it as a punch. Place it against the "tulip" part of the cv joint and hit at it with a hammer. You'll need to jack the car up to get enough room to do this. Make sure you are SECURELY on your jackstands.
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Old 04-04-2007, 06:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam76034
Same experience here on a 90 and again on 95. Ended up using the ball joint splitter fork tool to get it off. Use it as a punch. Place it against the "tulip" part of the cv joint and hit at it with a hammer. You'll need to jack the car up to get enough room to do this. Make sure you are SECURELY on your jackstands.
..and put something solid under the frame in case it falls off the jackstands as an extra layer of safety. I like to put a log under the frame to catch it just in case.
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Old 04-04-2007, 06:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 04-04-2007, 06:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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As stated above, pulling will not work. The axle needs a sharp and hard pop to get the clip to release. If you can replace the seal, otherwise take care not to damage it when you install the new shaft and need to shove it in hard.
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The seal pops out with a pry bar or medium to large screw driver. A new one goes into place easily. It goes in a bit easier if you place a small bit of grease around the lip area of the seal then tap it into place by going around the flat area with a hammer. Do not hit the lip area, nor pry the new seal with anything, treat it gingerly but firm when tapping it into place, and make sure it goes in all the way, it should recess in about 1/4 recessed past the outside case when fully tapped into place. Replace each seal you remove the axle. Each seal should less than $15.00. 2 seals less than $30.00.

IMHO...

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Old 04-04-2007, 07:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Note: the passenger side axle shaft, is longer (at least on my car) and is a larger diameter. Therefore the seal on that side has a larger diameter than the driver side axle and seal.

FYI
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