Whats The Best Ignition For Ae92?

[forpinks]

Hey peepz!

I just feel like changing the iginition system in my 4A-FE AE92 1990 Corolla DX A/T, for better fuel economy and a bit more power...

I want to know what brand and model of a performance ignition system, coils, wires, spark plug wires, and also want to know if iridium plugs will work with this engine?, what heat range or model number to match with the new ignition setup?

I know how to replace all of them but I cant choose which ones to get (there's too many of them...) Please help me on whats good for this types of cars...


BTW. the car did get overhauled at 90K miles in Toyota (its there for 3 days and costed $3K) and now its 130K miles.


Thanks alot for the tips and help!

[broke]

I have been a fan of MSD for as long as I can remember. Although if you are going to do this remember to index your spark pulgs. If you upgrade your ignition you are going to want to widen you gap so you can use your new ignition

[forpinks]

Originally Posted by broke

I have been a fan of MSD for as long as I can remember. Although if you are going to do this remember to index your spark pulgs. If you upgrade your ignition you are going to want to widen you gap so you can use your new ignition

Thanks...

MSD? how much spark increase can it give though? will I feel a difference in acceleration/power and fuel eco?


AE92 guys help me! even if this is an automatic! please!!!

[toyotaspeed90]

Originally Posted by forpinks

Hey peepz!

I just feel like changing the iginition system in my 4A-FE AE92 1990 Corolla DX A/T, for better fuel economy and a bit more power...

I want to know what brand and model of a performance ignition system, coils, wires, spark plug wires, and also want to know if iridium plugs will work with this engine?, what heat range or model number to match with the new ignition setup?

stock is pretty damn potent.... if you think there is a problem replace your plugs/wires/coil with oem parts.....

I know how to replace all of them but I cant choose which ones to get (there's too many of them...)

well, to be quite honest..... you don't know the car all that well if you're asking this..... the coil is internal and is a little more in depth than just unhooking wires and rehooking them up to the new parts..... at the very least you'll have to rewire the dizzy a bit along with add a tower adapter to the dizzy cap.....

Originally Posted by broke

I have been a fan of MSD for as long as I can remember. Although if you are going to do this remember to index your spark pulgs. If you upgrade your ignition you are going to want to widen you gap so you can use your new ignition

ok..... and in what stock toyota applications have you felt any sort of difference?

when I initially swapped the motor in my ae92 I started with an aftermarket system as we thought it would be easier overall..... well, in the long run it was more difficult, cost quite a bit, added weight to the car, and performed WORSE than when I removed it all in place of a stock coil....

I had an MSD 6al, blaster 2, and a tach adapter.....

[forpinks]

Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90

stock is pretty damn potent.... if you think there is a problem replace your plugs/wires/coil with oem parts.....



well, to be quite honest..... you don't know the car all that well if you're asking this..... the coil is internal and is a little more in depth than just unhooking wires and rehooking them up to the new parts..... at the very least you'll have to rewire the dizzy a bit along with add a tower adapter to the dizzy cap.....




ok..... and in what stock toyota applications have you felt any sort of difference?

when I initially swapped the motor in my ae92 I started with an aftermarket system as we thought it would be easier overall..... well, in the long run it was more difficult, cost quite a bit, added weight to the car, and performed WORSE than when I removed it all in place of a stock coil....

I had an MSD 6al, blaster 2, and a tach adapter.....

SO... keep stock? OK they've been replaced by Toyota when it had 90K miles...

I just want to get better fuel economy on this sucker it gets 20MPG city! worse than my tC! I just have to make this car great on handling (considering KYB strruts and ground control coil overs, thick sway bars,and STBs.),get atleast 25MPG city, and just be reliable for a sunday drive to buddies 20 miles away... I'm not racing it though. (maybe a little Auto-X)

[Flashmn]

Ignition wont bring you power nor fuel economy. Stock ignition is the best for stock engines.

Only time you need to update the ignition is if your stock ignition just isnt capable of generating a spark due to high compression or forced induction, but since you dont run any of them, no point in replacing the ignition with MSD.

[rezzle]

Keep stock, it makes more than enough spark and because your fuel, cams and airflow are all also stock there isn't much point.

I would recommend a set of good high quality ignition wires though I do notice a difference in the smoothness of my idle and a teeny bump in gas mileage when I upgrade them.

But you have to Toyota's coils and ignitors.

[Flashmn]

Get toyota wires, they work the best, compared to most "tuning" brands.

[rezzle]

Flashm
Perhaps your 'most manufacturers' statement is correct. I should clarify.

See below

http://www.sdsefi.com/techcomb.htm

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm

You don't need expensive racing wire, in fact 'ultra low' resistance wire is actually counter productive, but a high temperature silicon insulator with a spiral wound core does give better performance. - It won't increase HP but they will run slightly smoother, especially on wet days or on days with high humidity. I use Magnecor's 'electrosports 70 ignition cable.'

I also don't reccomend nology wires as I have heard more than a couple horror stories of a poorly grounded engine creating a feedback loop and frying the ECU.

[Flashmn]

Only thing spark plug wires do is transfer the voltage to the plugs, only way you'll arc the wires is that if they are cracked, which can be due to poor wires.
No doubt silicone is the main thing now, but its alot about flexibility and longevity. Silicone doesnt harden as fast as rubber.

You wont feel a difference between a new rubber wire and a new silicone wire, if the insulators are ok and the resistance is within spec.

Also how would you fry the ECU with a feedback loop? Sparkplugs are grounded by the cylinderhead and engine block. Therefor the current will still go to the ground of the car.
Also the secondary winding is isolated from the primary winding, as is the coil, by the ignition controller. Most horror stories are urban legends created by people who dont know better. Sure it might happen, but I dont see how.

As for modified ignitions, I have a fully computerized ignition, which I can map with the controller as I want in my car, its based on a bosch system, using the normal 7-pin bosch ignition module and a bosch high voltage coil. still I'm using stock wires, though they're getting old... so I might get some janmor cables, they're cheap.

[rezzle]

Originally Posted by Flashmn

Also how would you fry the ECU with a feedback loop? Sparkplugs are grounded by the cylinderhead and engine block. Therefor the current will still go to the ground of the car.
Also the secondary winding is isolated from the primary winding, as is the coil, by the ignition controller. Most horror stories are urban legends created by people who dont know better. Sure it might happen, but I dont see how.

EDIT:
The nology wires use a grounded cable because of the capacitor, However it is a grounded cable running parallel with the high voltage AC wire. like a DC shielded ground controls cable voltage can get induced into the ground cable and if the engine is not grounded very well some leaks into the cars own control circuit ground. Thousands of volts + ecu = bad. Even if it doesn't leak the electrical noise can cause a multitude of problems

Trust me not a good thing. I spent months trying to fix a similar problem in a proprietary HVAC controls system. Every time the burner tried to light the main control computer reset itself.

[Flashmn]

Umm.... Considering the car only has one power circuit, basically starts from the battery and ends to the battery, I dont see how it would matter. Only way you can fuck something up is pretty much if you induce a short circuit into the system. But even that would just heat up the particular wire and blow fuses.

Oh and where do you find AC in a car? Before the diode-bridge in the alternator perhaps, but thats about it, everything else is DC. Besides the duration of the spark is so quick, it doesnt really cause any short circuit effects. It might damage the ECU if it was plugged directly into it, I would assume the ECU ground was protected by a diode.

Oh and you probably do know the normal way of testing for spark. Take a lead and put it next to a metal part of the engine/body. Works even with newer cars, tried it with a wasted spark setup car. No damage to anything, and when you think about it, thats how normal plug operation is done, it grounds itself to the engine, which is grounded to the chassis, which leads to the battery. So theoretically you'd be shooting that voltage right to the body.

[rezzle]

First lets hear from "The Guru" pertaining to all things toyota ignition related..

Note he now offers a variant of his programmable ECU to Kit plane rebuilders
http://sdsefi.com/air50.htm

Ross Farnahm owner of SDSEFI.COM (and someone I used to know back in his track days)

Suppression type spark plug wires must be used. Most carbon string and spiral wound types are acceptable. NEVER use solid core spark plug wires. Unacceptable brands are Nology and Taylor

07/20/01 RPM Error Codes and Spark Plug Wires

Several customers have reported RPM error codes and missing on E and F systems when using Taylor, Nology, Sparko and most brands of solid core spark plug wires. As a result, we cannot recommend the use of these wires with our systems. Good success has been obtained with Magnecor, NGK, MSD, ACCEL and most OE spiral wound and carbon string type wires.

Mini Cooper issues with nology wires installed, note the driver alsmost crashed because of issues with the electric steering... http://www.mini2.com/forum/attachmen...0&d=1045355130

Electrical noise playing with Dodge Neon
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a...caf9a86841d20a

Nology wires causing gauge cluster problems in GTI VR6
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a...ad3094357962e6

Nology wires cause electrical gremlins in mitsubishi eclipse - read the emails on how well they handle the problem (TWO YEARS LATER)

http://rxreviews.wordpress.com/

Apparently, Nology Hotwires spark plug wires are causing CEL lights due to either:
- misfirings
- melted plugs
- shorted ignition coils

Taylor wires (similar in manufacture to Nology cause megasquirt ECU to reset.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88538

[Flashmn]

Oh, I'm not saying they arent junk. I wouldnt buy nology wires after I saw what kind of crap they were and I dont believe in that capacitor mumbojumbo.