So over the weekend I flushed the cooling system & put in a new thermostat. Can't get the coolant to circulate. The t-stat is opening as I had hot water running into the engine and it came back out the other end. But i cant seem to get the inlet hose to warm up/take water into the engine. Any ideas or tips or tricks. Garage is last ditch effort. lol
Turns out it was the thermostat that toyota sold me was the wrong one. It was a little larger in diameter then the one I took out so it wasnt sealing properly and sucking in air. I, of course, tried to tighten the nuts & broke them off. now Im even more fugged
is the hose going to the bottom of the rad getting hot? is the radiator full of fluid? is the bleed valve in the new tstat at the 12 o clock position?
Hose stays cold
rad is full
yes on the bleed on the t-stat
Nothing has worked. I've tried everything.
That lower hose just doesn't get hot and the radiator gets super hot as does everything else. Only thing I can think of now are:
1) New thermostat is a dud
2) Some kind of crazy air lock in inlet hose.
Going to try to use the rad fan sensor as a bleed screw tomorrow to try and get coolant up in that hose. If that doesn't work it's going to toyota monday morning and will sit there until they have time to look at it.
when i did mine, it took a good 20 minutes to bleed just the air from changing the tstat! had to wait for the engine to heat up then the tstat to completely open. the rad did get warm, i saw the fluid flowing past the cap opening, a few bubbles, but not much ya know. then finall blurp blurp bubble bubble! i revved the engine up and down a little while doing this to gett he fluid really moving.
when i did mine, it took a good 20 minutes to bleed just the air from changing the tstat! had to wait for the engine to heat up then the tstat to completely open. the rad did get warm, i saw the fluid flowing past the cap opening, a few bubbles, but not much ya know. then finall blurp blurp bubble bubble! i revved the engine up and down a little while doing this to gett he fluid really moving.
It's run a good half hour and GOTTEN HOT. Few small bubbles, I've even driven it around, but that lower hose doesn't get warm. I know the water pump works cause i can get coolant to flood out when revving.
Gonna try to bleed that lower hose today, if not, I can only assume the new t-stat I got from toyota is bunk
that is possible, are you 100% sure they gave you the correct part? guy on another corolla board or maybe it was a celica site had gotten the wrong part, the tstat was too large and was not able to open fully.
that is possible, are you 100% sure they gave you the correct part? guy on another corolla board or maybe it was a celica site had gotten the wrong part, the tstat was too large and was not able to open fully.
hmmmmm, I'll have to check that out monday. I can manually put coolant through the engine when the t-stat is open. pour it in the upper hose and it raises the level in the rad & over flows it. I got some bubbles out, but after about 40 minutes of idling the rad began to boil (small rapid bubbles).... I can't figure this one out atall.
Did the 97 corolla come stock with an aluminum radiator??
I put an aftermarket aluminum rad in my celica and had trouble with the OEM rad cap sealing properly. I'm wondering if the previous owner replaced it and didnt mention it.
if its getting hot enough to boil the radiator fluid then the fans would be cycling on, even with the cap off. the coolant is moving around in the rad when you rev the engine and the level rises and falls, whats the temp needle doing?
if its getting hot enough to boil the radiator fluid then the fans would be cycling on, even with the cap off. the coolant is moving around in the rad when you rev the engine and the level rises and falls, whats the temp needle doing?
Sitting @ 1/2 way mark the entire time. Rad did begin to boil, rad fan did NOT turn on. I discovered I have to unplug that to turn it on, so that sensor is toast.
Water pump definitely causes turbulence in the fluid.
When I allowed the rad to come to a near boil, the lower hose was hot, but it seemed like it was from conduction, it wasn't nearly as hot as the water in the rad, and as soon as I turned the fan on it or went for a drive, the lower hose went ICE cold. The system is only building minimal pressure as well, I can still squeeze the hose to touch even after a good 20 minutes, 120kph highway run.
I'm thinking maybe you dont have a problem, but your analysis methods are wrong...
You could be correct!!
I'm just going to drive it and if it pops, then it pops, if not, then sweet. 4afe heads are easy to come by locally, lots of corollas kickin around. I'm out of patience and caring. It's only a 18/20 month fill in since dominoz wrote my other car off
thanx all. I'll let ya know if/when it blows up. lol
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