Does anyone know where I can get some ITBs for the red top? I know I have to buy an adapter plate and such, but does anyone know a good site that sells stuff like that? Or is that something you have to go to ebay for?
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1987 Supra running 3" Turbo-back exhaust on a 7M-GTE @ 11.7PSI.
Greddy Turbo timer, wideband O2, AEM Air-Fuel Gauge, and Greddy Boost Controller installed.
Project '87 MR2 almost running.
The Ebay ITBs generally go for ~$400. The TTT adaptor plate is another $200 or so...plus you'd have to use either a standalone or the 20V ECU. There's a lot of people who have had great results with homemade ITBs from bikes...the Suzuki GSX-R 750 or Hayabusa is a popular choice.
That's pretty sick, yeah. I appreciate the help, I just wish I could find a site that just sold them, rather than trying to find them off eBay. I'm gonna keep looking. Thanks again.
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1987 Supra running 3" Turbo-back exhaust on a 7M-GTE @ 11.7PSI.
Greddy Turbo timer, wideband O2, AEM Air-Fuel Gauge, and Greddy Boost Controller installed.
Project '87 MR2 almost running.
A. Find someone parting out a blown 20V BT
B. buy ITB's from them
C. buy T3s ITB adaptor
D. modify to fit the red top
E. find aftermarket engine management
F. install on car and be happy.
if I was spending money on this kinda project, I think I'd pick something else. the 20V ITBs work just fine. But theres so many other options available that I'd take a look at them first.
wouldnt be a bad idea to check out other options. but i agree with ren, if you wait around a little you can probably find some 20V ones for a pretty good price. i dont know if anybody's seen this but ill post it up anyway:
What other options are you referring to? I've heard a few people talking about motorcyle throttle bodies (At least, that's what I understood). This is a huge learning experience for me, the only reason I'm pursuing this project is because I have a few friends who know most of what we need to know to do this. I've got a lot to learn though, that's for sure.
I'd definitely be willing to take some input/advice.
Here's what I have so far:
- 1987 MR-2 w/ stock wiring harness (ECU is probably still there, but I don't plan on using it.)
- Blown stock 4A-GE Big port that came with the car.
- All the engine components for a big port, intake, exhaust, etc.
- Stock 4A-GE Small port (10.3 compression.)
Current Plans (subject and open to change):
- Either figure out some ITBs or buy the small port intake manifold, found one for about $90.
- Run megasquirt.
- Eventually, after I get the motor running kindly, replace cams, and get ITBs if I haven't already.
Any advice or assistance would be great, and just a heads up, I live just south of Austin, TX.
Just to make 100% sure, I'd like to verify for sure that I have a red-top 4A-GE. The Black top and Silver top have black valve covers; however, the only reason I think I have a red top is because I have the small port heads and the wording on "16 valve" is red on silver. I'll try to get some pictures up soon and try to get several angles of the engine, hopefully we can figure out then.
Thanks guys,
Hank
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1987 Supra running 3" Turbo-back exhaust on a 7M-GTE @ 11.7PSI.
Greddy Turbo timer, wideband O2, AEM Air-Fuel Gauge, and Greddy Boost Controller installed.
Project '87 MR2 almost running.
Last edited by Shatonapples; 06-16-2007 at 06:15 PM.
I'm fitting it on my MR-2 (Mid engine, RWD layout). I plan to do modifications to the engine, and from what I've been reading, you're better off with a 16v than a 20v when you're planning to modify.
Still thinking I'd rather try the motorcycle ITB idea, I need a little more info and some advice for that though.
Thanks again for the help guys.
__________________
1987 Supra running 3" Turbo-back exhaust on a 7M-GTE @ 11.7PSI.
Greddy Turbo timer, wideband O2, AEM Air-Fuel Gauge, and Greddy Boost Controller installed.
Project '87 MR2 almost running.
i'm gonna agree with micro, it seems alot easier, i picked up my s/t for like 700$, wasn't there a couple b/t's for sale in the f/s section for pretty cheap? on another note i think we need to compare a relatively built 16V to a 20V with the same-ish mods to see why everybody downgrades them.
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