Problem but wanted to check with the experts here. I've had it in twice for the mechanic to look for leaks and he can't find any. It appears that I am burning it since I have no leaks. I was losing about a quart every 1000 miles and when I took it on the interstate would lose twice that. On advice from my mechanic I started using oil with tranny fluid to try and clean, what we believe, are stuck rings. It has helped, the oil consumption has been cut in half but doesn't seem to be getting any better.
I should also say that I bought this used and have put 5-6K on it at the most. Anyway I did a compression test on it (bought a kit that you plug into the spark plug threads, not sure how accurate this is) Standing in front of the car looking at the motor I started from left to right.
1st plug--yellow/brown (sulfur looking) stuff on the bottom thread and electrode (not sure that is the correct terminolog) also a little wet (as opposed to sludge) oil on threads. Compression was 160 psi.
2nd plug--Yellow brown on plug pretty much same as 1. A little wet oil on threads. Compression 148 psi
3rd plug---plug looks great no yellow/brown however a little sludge like oil on bottom threads. Compression 142 psi
4th plug--yellow sulfur looking (worse than 1 and 2) very heavy build up on electrode and white part. Alittle sludge on bottom threads. Compression 130 psi
Sure looks like stuck rings to me but I am far from a mechanic. Someone thought it might be valve guides but I don't think so with the compression results.
Would love to hear any opinions and any suggested solutions, Thanks
it does indeed sound like rings this is your traditional toyota formula for bad rings although i haven't heard of any other people with 2003+ cars with problems
-How many kms/miles are on the car?
-It sounds like you just bought the car if you bought it from toyota or some other reputable shop take it back and complain!
-Try different oil manufactures and grades usually a 10w-40 will help out some in my opinion 20w-50 is getting too thick...
-This isn't gonna kill your engine anytime soon just keep the oil topped up either plan on a bottom end rebuild down the line or sell the car while you can
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Ah when she was in her glory, Not so nice anymore 358k 17years old her time is getting short ....
Last edited by 94_Rolla_Guy; 07-06-2007 at 12:01 PM.
Hate to stick someone with my problems (even though it was done to me)
As far as Oil, I am using 5-30 (plus tranny fluid) per the manual I don't know much about oil but isn't 20-50 getting pretty thick for this vehicles? I remember someone saying that if the oil is too thick it can't pass through certain parts?
Anyone know (approx) what a ring job cost?
retiredat44 what year vehicle do you drive? Thanks for the replies.
I'm a guy so why read the directions, right. Anyway I checked the compression on my engine and posted the numbers, however at the time I noticed the instructions said to remove all spark plugs and then test. Well knowing better then the manufactorer I tested one at a time and left the others in. So I re did it today and got new numbers that I wanted to post and get some advice on.
Looking at the engine starting from left to right.
1) 200 PSI
2) 190 PSI
3) 190 PSI
4) 200 psi
So now I'm thinking maybe value guides instead of stuck rings? (compression looks pretty good doesn't it?)
Also I looked down the spark plug hole and saw:
1) a little wet and "varnish"/sludge
2) dry and varnish/sludge
3) dry and varnish/sludge
4) little wet varnish/sludge
Thanks for any help (2003 corolla--bought used--68000 miles on it---no leaks---burning oil.)
You might want to also check with your local Toyota dealer (even though you didn't buy there) and get their thoughts on the problem. Sometimes there are secret warranties that apply even though your factory warranty has lapsed. Also sometimes they will let you talk to one of the techs and get their feedback with your compression results, ammount of cnsumption and the best fix for the problem.
Put new plugs in, run it a while,,, like for days, then check the plugs..
Quote:
Originally Posted by tm3912
I'm a guy so why read the directions, right. Anyway I checked the compression on my engine and posted the numbers, however at the time I noticed the instructions said to remove all spark plugs and then test. Well knowing better then the manufactorer I tested one at a time and left the others in. So I re did it today and got new numbers that I wanted to post and get some advice on.
Looking at the engine starting from left to right.
1) 200 PSI
2) 190 PSI
3) 190 PSI
4) 200 psi
So now I'm thinking maybe value guides instead of stuck rings? (compression looks pretty good doesn't it?)
Also I looked down the spark plug hole and saw:
1) a little wet and "varnish"/sludge
2) dry and varnish/sludge
3) dry and varnish/sludge
4) little wet varnish/sludge
Thanks for any help (2003 corolla--bought used--68000 miles on it---no leaks---burning oil.)
I'm in a warm, hot climate.. 20-50w on a high mileage engine is no problem..
Quote:
Originally Posted by tm3912
Car has 65,000 miles on it.
Bought from a small dealer, no help.
Hate to stick someone with my problems (even though it was done to me)
As far as Oil, I am using 5-30 (plus tranny fluid) per the manual I don't know much about oil but isn't 20-50 getting pretty thick for this vehicles? I remember someone saying that if the oil is too thick it can't pass through certain parts?
Anyone know (approx) what a ring job cost?
retiredat44 what year vehicle do you drive? Thanks for the replies.
As far as Oil, I am using 5-30 (plus tranny fluid) per the manual I don't know much about oil but isn't 20-50 getting pretty thick for this vehicles? I remember someone saying that if the oil is too thick it can't pass through certain parts?
20w50 would be recommended as long as its above freezing (car might not turn on if it is below freezing with 20w50 in it) below freezing use a 10w30 (during the summer this thins out too much and thats why you should use 20w50 in the summer / or whenever above freezing)
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89 Corolla All-Trac Sedan White 188,xxx (Sold)
89 Corolla All-Trac Wagon Blue 172,xxx (Current)
Just run amsoil 5-30 severe duty oil in your vehicle and you will be fine. Plus you wont have to change it as often. Now... if you do re-ring your engine you will need to run conventional oil in it initially then switch to synthetic. Synthetic oil will be much more cost effective in the long run.
Just because you have good compression doesn't rule out stuck oil rings. Before I re-ringed my 98, I had 185-190 across the board. The oil ring was stuck in the sides of the pistons, but my compression rings were fine.
Did you run a wet compression test to see if the numbers changed? If you run the wet test and see a big jump in the numbers, chances are you have bad rings.
Just because you have good compression doesn't rule out stuck oil rings. Before I re-ringed my 98, I had 185-190 across the board. The oil ring was stuck in the sides of the pistons, but my compression rings were fine.
Did you run a wet compression test to see if the numbers changed? If you run the wet test and see a big jump in the numbers, chances are you have bad rings.
Funny you should mention that. I talked to my mechanic yesterday and he told me the same thing. Obviously I was mistaken.
Funny you should mention that. I talked to my mechanic yesterday and he told me the same thing. Obviously I was mistaken.
How do I do a wet compression test? Thanks
To do a wet compression test, you need to add a LITTLE oil to the cylinder and run the test as you normally would. Little as maybe half a teaspoon. Increase in pressure readings typically indicates a ring issue. If there is no change, most likely a valve issue.
Yes - it's gonna smoke something nasty after you replace the plugs and hit the road again.
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