So I own a 1993 Corolla, but thing is the papers from the dealer I bought it from say it's a 1.6, actually the dealer wrote 1.6 himself on the receipt papers..anyway under the hood there's a sticker that says 1.8..am I going with what the sticker says? Also, can anyone step by step please explain to me the process of replacing the spark plugs on that car because I've read so many articles that all vary somewhat..thanks that would help a lot! : )
well i would go by what the sticker says since it is in the engine bay. You could also check the VIN number (its either the 8th or 10th number i forget) and it will tell you what the engine is. Well after you go a autot parts store and ask them. As for taking out spark plugs i would think its all the same as just pulling one wire at a time, taking out the spark plug, gaping the new one to spec and putting it in with some anti-sieze on the plugs.
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2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
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Originally Posted by FinalGear
gosh...those honda guys....as soon as they put the intake in their Civics...it goes faster than any Mustang, Evo, and Sti....
well i would go by what the sticker says since it is in the engine bay. You could also check the VIN number (its either the 8th or 10th number i forget) and it will tell you what the engine is. Well after you go a autot parts store and ask them. As for taking out spark plugs i would think its all the same as just pulling one wire at a time, taking out the spark plug, gaping the new one to spec and putting it in with some anti-sieze on the plugs.
well it's not quite that straightforward. You'll need a spark plug socket for sure...but the biggest thing is to avoid crossing threads.
there are various methods for it (which is probably what you've read)..but I always say just use the ratchet to break the plugs loose, then take the ratchet off the socket and hand loosen them and pull them out. conversly, when putting them back in, hand thread them (again using the spark plug socket), and only use the ratchet again to get the final torque on the plugs.
use antisieze and boot grease, the parts store will politely remind you to buy those extras. I would also stick with Denso or NGK brand spark plugs for that car...they're closer to OEM than the other brands.
Ok thanks so far, but thing is when I take out the spark plug wire, there's like an inch and a half or 2 inch gap till the spark plug, how am I supposed to hand tighten it if my fingers can't reach down there? Or do I after gapping the spark plugs, drop them down then tighten them with the wrench and socket? Sorry for the confusion but I haven't replaced spark plugs before and don't wanna mess it up the first time or pay a mechanic $80 to put them in when with some care it's a child's play job. So any further details would be greatly appreciated.
Ok thanks so far, but thing is when I take out the spark plug wire, there's like an inch and a half or 2 inch gap till the spark plug, how am I supposed to hand tighten it if my fingers can't reach down there? Or do I after gapping the spark plugs, drop them down then tighten them with the wrench and socket? Sorry for the confusion but I haven't replaced spark plugs before and don't wanna mess it up the first time or pay a mechanic $80 to put them in when with some care it's a child's play job. So any further details would be greatly appreciated.
good question.
I'll try to be very clear. take the spark plug socket (and an extension if necesary to reach into the well) but do not connect a ratchet to it. Now put the spark plugs into the socket (with extension if necesary), the rubber grommet will hold them in. then hand thread the plugs using JUST the socket.
Now, when the plugs are completely in and hand tight, attach the socket and toque the plugs. You might want to use a torque wrench the first time to get a feel for how tight they should be. I don't know the torque specs, look it up in the repair manual.
spinning the socket by hand doesn't give enough torque to cross the threads
also, as trancedcorolla said, don't force the plugs in. Just let them thread in under their own weight...don't press down. once they're completely threaded in, you can press down to steady the ratchet as you torque them in.
the underhood stickers are not an accurate way to tell heres the real way to tell...
look on the front right of the engine block, (right up against the tranny) about halfway down theres a flatspot that will give ya the real block code (7a / 4a) you will probably have to clean it with a wire brush to read it
the other way is the 1.8 liter has a aluminum stiffener that bolts to the bottom of the engine and to the transmission leaving a small black oil pan at the very bottom of the engine while the 1.6 has an all steel oil pan
right across the bottom off the engine..and a brace that bolts from the engine to the trans on the trans side
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Ah when she was in her glory, Not so nice anymore 358k 17years old her time is getting short ....
Is it a little sticker next to the distributor cap? Cos it says 4A but under the hood, on the underside, there's a sticker with a whole bunch of stuff and it says 1.8L on it. Why the hell would there be two stickers that say two different things? Would I find the exact answer on Carfax? Or is that just for collision history of your car?
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