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Old 09-07-2007, 10:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
Vroom?
 
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Valve seals

What type do you recommend

The dealers are

$11.70 for the exhaust ones each
and $7.60 for the intake ones each


Which seems expensive since you can get sets off the net for $59 for all 16, wondering if the dealer ones are worth the extra money. Or should I buy the toga set I found
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ls-toyota.html
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Old 09-07-2007, 12:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How do you put those valve seals on?
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Old 09-07-2007, 01:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The OEM valve seals are better usually than the no-name brand.
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool

are you doing the valve job yourself? because a good mechanic will recommend and/or tel you that they are going to use a specif suppier. it's would be the only way to gurantee their work. beside, doing it at home is not for an amatuer. You need equipemnt which is not avaialble for loan.

kits are best, and good quality. Unless the engine is in real good shape then you can do just one cylinder.
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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it's not that hard to do at home, I have to take the head off anyways for the headgasket. Someone put a DIY for the ge head on dorikaze, with the head on, you just have to use something to stop the valve from falling into the head

http://www.dorikaze.com/showthread.p...ght=valve+seal
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Dealer one lasted 10 years. Its not something easy to fix. I'll stay with Toyota parts.
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Old 09-08-2007, 01:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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again you say it's hard, but it doesn't look very hard in the DIY, should be easier with the head off the car since the valve can't drop into the cylinder (I'm a clutz so I'd probably drop it lol)

Even if it's hard like you say, which I'm wondering why your saying it's hard just so I know what to expect, it needs to be done.. The car doesn't just burn oil when you start it but it's to the point that it does it when I rev it high.
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Old 09-08-2007, 02:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Exclamation

taking it apart with proper tools isn't hard, it is the re-surfacing of the seat and valves which you don't have the proper tools... I know there are kit's and tools you can use at home... but they are nothing like pro tools and used by a train engine rebuilder.. maybe witha new valve, you can gind that one valve seat.. but then you wopuld need to measure it before you put the valve back in to make sure it was done correctly..

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Old 09-08-2007, 03:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you dont have to resurface the valve seats if you just change valve seals. doh.
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Old 09-08-2007, 04:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yeah... woah woah.. Aparently you are confused, open the DIY I posted and you'll see what I'm talking about doing. It's just the seal so that it stop dripping oil in there .
Thats why I keep saying.. Why is it hard? Thought maybe you guys were going to say the timing or something like that. BUt like I said since I have to do the headgasket this is a prime time to do the valve seals . If it keeps burning oil after that... Then I needed rings too lol.
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Old 09-08-2007, 05:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sorry, I thought he was replacing a valve, or all of them,,, then just get a valve spring compressor and have at them... make sure they all go back to the exact location/cylinder..

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Old 09-08-2007, 05:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well the locations arent going to change, because he doesnt even have to take the head off to do the valve seals.
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Old 09-09-2007, 06:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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but as I said, I will since the headgasket will be done the same time.
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