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Old 10-03-2007, 10:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Tips on Painting???

This might sound like a no brainer or a silly question to some but I want to paint my JDM bumper I just got. I figure, buy a air compressor, air brush, the correct paint, primer, and clear coat....

then wash my bumper real good. Put it up on a saw horse and paint a layer of primer... 2-3 layers of paint, then clear coat and buff...oooorrr.... somthing like that/???

what about things like time it takes to dry, how long to wait before putting on another coat, is the number of layers good, how to run the brush across, the size of air compressor and type of air brush??? Am I in way over my head on this?

Painters help me... I'll post up pics when I'm done...

I've spray painted a lot of things before but I was suspecting car paint and an airbrush might behave a little differently...

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Old 10-03-2007, 10:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Time

Just Take Your Time!! Don't Rush!! This Is The Best Tip I Can Give You!!
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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air brush is going to be too small. I'd say atleast a 0.4liter top can spray gun.
That said, if you dont have any experience, dont have the equipment. Take it to maaco or somewhere to get painted. Your equipment is going to cost more than having it painted. Not to mention, chances of messing it up is going to be high for a first timer.

As for the painting itself, you'll need to have plastic primer, it keeps the paint elastic, otherwise it will peel off. You also need to scuff the plastic before you primer.

As for drying time, are you going to be using solvent or water based paints? 1K or 2K primer and clear? Alot of the times the drying times for the paint are marked on the cans.

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Am I in way over my head on this?
Way over your head.
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Old 10-04-2007, 08:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Talk to the guy at the body shop supply store where you buy the paint about the details of what you are trying to do. The base coat is easy to paint and goes on like primer. It will be fine even if it goes on a little dry. The base coat will dry very quickly and can be clear coated the same day. The clear coat is a little harder to do perfectly, but can be wet sanded and buffed if you get it on a little too dry. Go ahead and give it a shot. It's the best way to learn. And if you don't like how it turns out, sand it down and try again. It's true that all of the supplys and the compressor and gun will cost more than to have someone else do it, but this way you will have the tools for the next job and you will learn a new skill. And buy a respirator. Clear coat and your lungs are not compatible.

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Old 10-04-2007, 10:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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^ No offence but that was just some crappy advice.

This guy gets a JDM bumper and you're saying thats a good piece to learn on. If he messes up chances are when he starts to sand it off, hes going to also sand the plastic on the bumper = bumper gets messed up.

Some things are just not meant to be spoiled in the learning process. Expensive JDM bumpers is one, I'm still standing behind my advice on taking it to someone else. Just to avoid headaches and expenditures.
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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As flash said, you are better off having someone else do it rather than waste somthing where appearence is important.

Forget the airbrush. For painting large amounts of surface, you need a proper spraygun. A HVLP (High volume - Low pressure) spraygun is probably the best kind availible, as you lose less paint from atomization.

As for a air compressor, remember: The larger (Both compessor capacity (Measured in Cubic feet/minute(CFM) and tank capacity) it is, the longer you can paint. You haveto keep the pressure constant to apply an even coat.

A spraygun also has the advantage of being capible of using custom mixed paint, so you will find other uses for it. Just remember to clean it well after each use!

Avoid using water when cleaning somthing. That affects the way the paint sticks to the surface. A body shop can tell you what is best on plastic, but Acetone or Varsol work good on metal.

A general rule of thumb to keep about paint is to try to stick with the same brand of paint throughout. That way, everything should work as it should. The paint has to be thinned to be used in a spraygun, and a hardener can be added to help speed drying.

However, like everything in life, it takes practice. You're better off painting some scrap metal or somthing else rather than turning it on your toyota until you get the hang of it.
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Flashmn View Post
^ No offence but that was just some crappy advice.

This guy gets a JDM bumper and you're saying thats a good piece to learn on. If he messes up chances are when he starts to sand it off, hes going to also sand the plastic on the bumper = bumper gets messed up.

Some things are just not meant to be spoiled in the learning process. Expensive JDM bumpers is one, I'm still standing behind my advice on taking it to someone else. Just to avoid headaches and expenditures.
Some people like doing their own work, and take a lot of pride in it. Others like writing a check. Each person has a certain level of skill and is comfortable with certain levels of jobs. Only the author of this thread can decide what's best for him based on his skill level. On a relatively small piece like a bumper, there is no reason, especially for the do-it-yourselfer, to do any sanding with anything other than by hand. To say the guy will sand into the plastic on the bumper isn't giving him much credit. But even if he did, it's easily repairable. And yes, its a great idea to set up the gun on something other than the new bumper....basic common sense but worth mentioning. Learn a skill or write a check......its up to him.

Last edited by blb; 10-04-2007 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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One other option is that most good auto paint stores can make spray bombs in any custom color you want then get clear in the spray cans too. Just one other possiblity

For conventional spraying:

-stay away from those stupid diaphragm compressors, my advice is to look for a decent piston style compressor they last longer and are much less irritating

-There are generally 2 sizes of guns touch up guns and like full coat guns, a touch up gun should be ok for a bumper.

-what ever gun you get the compressor has to have equal to or higher SCFM rating

-For paint talk to the guy at the paint store theres alot of info and advice they can provide.

-also practice with the gun before you attack good stuff, get some mis-mixed paint from the store or even use something like thinned tremclad to get an idea on gun setup and technique, practice on anything metal like a old door or hood anything really
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 94_Rolla_Guy View Post
One other option is that most good auto paint stores can make spray bombs in any custom color you want then get clear in the spray cans too. Just one other possiblity
This is excellent advice, especially for the base coat. Especially when considering the prices of automotive paints, reducers, etc. You can get professional results with the base coat with the spray bombs mixed at a good automotive paint store. If you are done and you see an area that is a little thin, no need to get out the gun, mix, spray, and clean everything out again. Just pick up the can and give it a shot. The clear in the spray cans is a little harder to get perfect results, especially over a larger area like a hood or roof, but for a bumper, you could get away with it. Like any painting job, proper surface preparation including the use of prep-sol or like product is of great importance.

Last edited by blb; 10-04-2007 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 10-04-2007, 01:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Exclamation

Go to a auto paint store close to where you live, and ask them for tips.. tell them what you plan on doing,, they are always helpful and know exactly what you should do. I know I gave a simplified answer, but some people just buy paint and sandpaper, but don't ask a real person, they look on websites only, Do both.

That said, if you buy a compressor get a decent tank size, over 16 gallons. a top feed spray gun. 1.4 to 1.6 nozzle size. The paint store people will give you a great list of supplies. Amazingly, the paint is very cheap. The compressor and gun can be had for around $300.00 USD. A cheap smaller compressr for 1/2 that price. 4 or over CFM is a must.. with a minimum of 120 psi. Even though the gun setting wil not be over 35 psi..

Use a test panel to adjust the gun spray pattern. cardboard is ok...
get rolls of papaer and take at either paint store or Home Depot. The rolls of paper with tape already attached is nice.

If you have a Harbor Freight store close to you, they have some very good deals on tools...


tons more stuff to do,, the list is long...
oh yeah,, get a tube of 'Ever-Coat Glaze and Spot Putty',,, use for small spots, much easier to use in place of Bondo, but you stil may want some Bondo for larger areas.

No clear coat was necessary when I did paint on my car. I just used the OEM color.

The paint may not require primer... I prefer using primer.

Use a Scotch Pad for plastic. Like bumpers. if they are already painted, then prep them, snad, etc.. wheels (if you paint Stock OEM steel wheel, and can't get them sand blasted... sand as you can, scotch pad...

I am justg trying to give quick tips... a decent sander is good, but a cheap one will work.... if this is a one time deal, if you plan on using the sander for more jobs, try to get a decent one. The cheap ones suck, but do work.

It seems there is never enough sand paper... try to get down to 1200 to 2000 when getting it prepped.. and if you do any sanding wet/dry after you finnish use the finest you can get...

I have never used a clay bar, but using a coarse polish for overspray really works well... let the car dry for at least 3 months before waxing and since winter is coming,,, I don't know if the 3 months still apply when cold, wet..

Wherever you paint ( a paint booth is alwasy best,, if not absolutely necessary) make sure there is no dust dirt in the air.

If you do not use the factory color, remember the engine bay inisde lips trunk etc.. will show the difference drastically...

Good Luck
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Old 10-04-2007, 01:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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some air compressors maybe on sale with an air tool kit, some are very good deals... an Air tool kit with the air ratchet, spray nozzles, and tons of parts is a must witha compressor. You can get lesser named tools that work fine for home garage use. You don't need the expensive tools. Unless you have money to burn.

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Old 10-04-2007, 01:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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One thing I don't remember seeing mentioned is to get a water separator spliced into the air line to prevent condensation from being sprayed in with the paint.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You need a clear coat with metallic colors, thats what gives it the shine and durability. Non metallic colors seldomly have clear.

As for using spraypaints. Well thats the el-cheapo option, problem is that the spray pattern is shitty and as the can gets empty you wont have constant pressure anymore, you'll blow droplets. Bottom line, it'll look like shit.

Quote:
Some people like doing their own work, and take a lot of pride in it. Others like writing a check.
Also saying its a pride thing to do it yourself and not pay. Sure, if you're capable of doing it.

The original poster did ask if he was in over his head, if you really have to ask that, you are. I've painted parts of cars before, now I'm painting my actual whole car, its difficult as hell. But I have the tools and the training to do it. It's very expensive buying all the stuff and doing it once by yourself without skills and a second time in a shop because the end result is a bunch of crap that you wouldnt even dare show in daylight.

Bottom line is, do you want to pay it twice or pay it once. Learning to paint is best done on something else, especially not a bumper with crevices and holes.

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Only the author of this thread can decide what's best for him based on his skill level.
Indeed, but I'm just watching out for his best intersts.

Quote:
One thing I don't remember seeing mentioned is to get a water separator spliced into the air line to prevent condensation from being sprayed in with the paint.
Yep and it should be placed on the rear of the pistol AND also the pressure regulation should be done at the gun end of the line.

Last edited by Flashmn; 10-04-2007 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You need a clear coat with metallic colors, thats what gives it the shine and durability. Non metallic colors seldomly have clear.
Maybe in Finland, but not in the USA.

The majority of the new cars sold here since the early 90's are base/clear regardless of whether they are metallic or not. Many older vehicles were enamel, or back further yet, lacquer, which had no clear coat and many had high metallic content.

Clear coat is used over base colors that are meant to be clearcoated regardless of metallic content.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Cool

I did my Corolla not long ago. I got OEM Grey Metallic, no clear coat needed.

here is a website with colors (for general info):

http://www.toyotareference.com/#CO

and had the OEM paint mixed (Used the ID tag on the car door Jam for the OEM paint number)

Acrylic Lacquer, , acetone for reducing, and some hardener. note: the reducer and hardener are not needed, but an option. it is single stage paint.

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