About 93 Corolla 7A-FE (US)

[93Rolla]

Does any one ever or still playing with a 93 rolla (7A-FE). If you do, could you please share your mod experience? It's very hard to find any reference about a Corolla with a 7A-FE engine... 8(

[bondobondo]

7a-fe..
hmmmm

ok in traffic
not too great on the track.

stick a ge head from a 4age and you will like it.

[93Rolla]

Thank you for the advice. Since I am new to this, please forgive me if I asked/said something stupid...
I assume the GE head will fit on the 7A-FE without any modification... but where should I go to find the head, from Toyota? More suggestion please. BTW, does the Termo-Tec exhaust insulating wraps really give you a dramatic horse power gain?

The current mod/add-on for the 93 rolla mostly is external. It's a sweet looking car now but it won't run ^^.
Enkie RS6 17" w/ Yokohama Parada 205/40/17
Eibach 1.5" Lowering Spring Set
KYB shocks
APEXi N1 Universal Tip
cone head intake
NGK 8.5mm Spark Wires
Bosch Platinum Plus 4 Spark Plugs

Thanks agian.

[Flashmn]

No, Thermotec wont give you a dramatic power boost.
As far as tuning your engine, why not just tune the 7A-FE, its not that bad of an engine. Only thing that you'd get with the G head is better flow, cuz the valves are wider, but I dont think the hp difference is that dramatic.

[93Rolla]

Andrew/Flashmn,
So guys, do you have any suggestion on how to tune the 7A-FE or web site that I can take a look? Any information is appreciated. It is very hard to find any information for my rolla here in Dallas... 8(

[Flashmn]

Well, I got some ideas, but they arent cheap.
1st get some cams with power enhancement at the upper and mid range, I think http://www.webcaminc.com/toyota-auto.html has something atleast for a 4A-F(E) wont hurt to ask.
2nd Change the pistons into high compression ones. something like 11:1 might do.
Then get your Fuel injection upgraded, cuz you might need additional fuel with the cams.

3rd if you want, get n2o :wink:

Of course these are merely suggestions, se I'm not going to say do this do that, cuz you really gotta know what you're doing if you dont want your engine to blow up. So take my ideas with a grain of salt.

[Rice Rocket]

If you have another car to get to work in or what ever I would give the following setup a try. A couple of guys have done this set up for their Mk1 Mr2's:

1) 7A-FE block and recipocating assembly (1.8L displacement right?)
2) 4A-GE head from 84-92 corrola GTS or 85-89 MR2
3) Porsche 924 timing belt (it fits don't worry)

The 4A-GE head does flow more due to the more aggresive valve angle which emphasised performance instead of fuel economy. That's what the "F" in 7A-FE stands for, it means it has a non performance head. Second because the 7A-FE is a stroked out 4A-GE, the recipocating gear is weaker. To facilitate high rpm operation I would prep the connecting rods by shotpeening and polishing the beams as well as use ARP fastners. This should make the con rods fairly strong to survive rpm up to 7200-7500 where the 4A-GE usually likes to be. Otherwise limit revs to around 6500 rpm. If you want to get real fancy it would be cool to do a turbo set up with a Garret T-25 turbo!

[4Aaron GE]

Didn't somone from Club4AG modify rods meant for a b18 to fit in there?

[Flashmn]

Well, redline isnt a wall which after you go by your engine blows. I went past my tach once, (whoops!) but my engine is still working just fine and dandy.

[Rice Rocket]

I know it's not a wall, I just wouldn't repeatedly go past it.. puts a lot of stress on your connecting rods.

[Flashmn]

Well, of course I wont go over it intentionally.. but the engines can take a lot of beating... I've seen a nissan 1.3liter do 10,000rpm daily :razz: no problems, I've seen that particular motor go over 15,000rpm, still is intact.
All I meant was that the redline is put so that there is a large safety margin on the other side of it, because heck if engineers would be so smart to pinpoint the X-rpm of destruction, we'd be in mars by now :wink:

[93Rolla]

Guys,
I just did a Dynorun the result is not good (even for a 10-year-old Rolla). I got the a little bit over 100 hp out of my Rolla. The shop owner say the fuel regulator might be the bottle neck so I just went ahead and changed one to make the fuel flow higher. The result is about 7 hp more (avg. out of 5 runs). Also the shop owner will try to find a 4AG header for the Rolla. If he can't find any, then I will go for the Focuz or OBX header.

here is two pic of my 93Rolla
http://home.attbi.com/~henrychang2001/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 93Rolla on 2002-03-17 09:40 ]</font>

[Flashmn]

Just get a custom made header, I find most &quot;branded&quot; products just focus on looks, not exactly the math behind operation. Too big = not good, too small, well thats not exactly good either. I'm planning to either get a mufflershop to custom make me a set, or buy some pipe and flat-steel and make my own :wink:

Yes, I've been known to be eccentric at times.

[4Aaron GE]

93Rolla, my bro has the upper half of a HP Racing header for the 7A-FE (The bottom half is still being used until we find a AE92 header). email him at eric.lee@gm.com
or in the classified section.

[fatredcircle]

No offence, but it isn't that hard to calculate at what rpm your engine will break down at.

At a given rpm, your engine spits in certain ratios of oxygen and fuel, which given a spark, creates combustion am I right?

Now this combustion increases in force due to higher RPM's due to the increased air and fuel shot into the engine.

Now we know how thick, or can measure how thick our cylinder walls, pistons, and forces which a certain rod, crank, or bolt can handle. By using these factors and comparing them to the forces which are exerted by the combustion of air and fuel, we can calculate the rpm which your engine will break down at..
its pretty simple eh?

Secondly, the redline is only a safe number. Redline doesn't mean peak power, so reving past the redline doesn't mean more power.. it just means more stress.

Third, 11.0:1 comp pistons would pretty much put the average car into non streetable material, high pump gas or even race gas would have to be used especially if you get wild or mild cams to go along with it.
running nitros on that engine, whoa, say good bye to something.

and as we all know
Any engine can be modded, whether it be a k kar or a ferarri, its just, who has the money to do a 7afe as compared to a 7age?
or even a 4age.. you can't say money isn't a factor, so remember to look at the money issue when making your choice.