if this isn't a boro mod/diy then nothin is

[toyotaspeed90]

so... as some of you probably knew... i was having a problem of frying ignitors..... (and for those of you completely in the dark.... i'm running a 4a-ge off of a 1990 4a-fe ecu and wiring).... the problem with the ignitor, is that in the 4a-fe it's built into the distributor... the distributor acted as a heat sink.... w/o the ignitor in the dizzy it didn't dissipate heat when 2 attempted trials failed (this one hasn't failed... yet)

So..... what was the idea? use the 4a-fe distributor as the heat sink & just mount it in the car under the dash somewhere (i have yet to do that... i'm keeping an eye on it making sure it doesn't overheat)....

as an added amount of heat dissipating action.... i mounted a heatsink on the backside of the ignitor, and a 12V computer fan to the heat sink.... then, i mounted another (slightly larger) 12V computer fan on the backside of the old distributor cap (after i removed the wires, of course). I removed the magnetic pickups from the inside of the distributor, then cut the shaft down to fit the ignitor w/ heatsink/fan in there..... (i will try and get the rest out... but it's not easy)

here are some amusing pictures (sorry about the bright ones.. the didn't turn out like i wanted :roll: )


^^ drilled 2 holes & used the plastic holders that came w/ the fan


^^ fan mounted in the cap, can't tell.... the shaft in the dizzy is cut down


^^ the mess of wires... believe it or not there's only 6 wires there...
^^ notice the dual ground....


^^ up close of the fans & you can kinda see the heat sink....


^^ put together

it's kinda strung up under the dash.... nothing too permanent yet... & i haven't cleaned the wires incase the ignitor goes again.... might as well make it as easy as possible next time

**oh ya.. forgot to mention... i also used a heatsink compound where the ignitor sits against the distributor to hopefully help a bit more (toyota didn't do that)

[Nick]

i'm speachless...

[toyotaspeed90]

Originally posted by Oldman
i'm speachless...

lol.. in a good or bad way?

the 2nd ignitor i had put a heatsink on the back w/ a fan on the sink... but the heatsink was too big (and the back of the ignitor isn't flat)... so that's why it only lasted an hour....

[Deep]

why not just get the 4AGE ecu and splice a few wires?

[boroEF]

uh u know that fan is just blowing hot air at the dizzy right?

but big ups on the relocated dizzy HAHAHAHAHA

[NDR008]

That's wack man!
It reminds me of a TV that came in for repairing at my dad's shop after someone else tried.
It had a fan stuck to its back and holes drilled into the case.
Some components where over heating becuase something else was wrong. So some technician fixed the result (remove the heat), rather then solve the problem (the cause of the heat).

I'ld say that IS a boro mod :P

[toyotaspeed90]

Originally posted by boroEF
uh u know that fan is just blowing hot air at the dizzy right?

but big ups on the relocated dizzy HAHAHAHAHA

no it isn't... i pulled the spark plug wires out & there are 4 1/2-3/4" holes at the top of the cap..... plus w/o the coil on the side there's an opening in the side as well

because it's a lot more simple to use the 4a-fe ecu.... this is the only problem i've had....

[TRDragoon]

wow, now that is innovation!

but i still hafto agree with Deep.......props tho!......
















just not worth it....<----------small Font/ colour white so you cant read it.....

[toyotaspeed90]

lol... how is it not worth it? i used the 4a-fe ecu (it was tuned), and 4a-fe wiring.... only had to extend 2 sensor wires (and the o2 sensor wires... only because of the placement on the KBD downpipe).... and like i said, this was the only issue

today i pulled the panels apart there and found a decent sized hole behind the glove box and put it up there for now..... doesn't move & works fine..

my swap took 6 days (3 weekends).... and the total cost was $1600US... including the following:

smallport 4a-ge (from japan)
new distributor cap
rebuilt flywheel
MSD 6AL, blaster 2 coil, 8910 EIS
KBD header
4a-ge thermostat housing/thermostat
FULL exhaust including high flow cat
GTS gauges (including the volt/oil pressure)
NGK spark plug
DIY 8mm spark plug wire set/coil wire
New timing belt
New alt belt
New PS belt (not using right now)
SARD adjustable FPR and B&M fuel rail fuel pressure gauge
Oil for 2 changes, coolant, 2 oil filters
New GTS radiator
& ae86 oil cooler

install was "free" since i was there doing most the work (except the technical know-how.... now i know though)....

so, it wasn't worth it how?

oh yeah... the OTHER reason i kept this ECU is i wanted to keep it MAP based.... no AFM... and i kept the intake i was using before...

[Deep]

Originally posted by toyotaspeed90
because it's a lot more simple to use the 4a-fe ecu.... this is the only problem i've had....

Whatever works for you man


I haven't seen a diagram for a 4AFE and a 4AGE, but I've looked at a 3SFE and 3SGE harness and the difference is only about 3 wires, if you wanted to, you could run those yourself.

[silverstreakin]

deep, i wish you could explain that one to me

[toyotaspeed90]

well... it's more than just the wires themselves because you're right.... the wiring is VERY similar (and this is why i can run the 4a-fe wiring on the 4a-ge)... i only had to extend a few wires

but the pin-outs on the ecu are different.... so i would have to deal with the hassle of either re-wiring the entire car with the 4a-ge wiring, or the hassle of figuring out each 4a-fe wire and where it goes on a 4a-ge harness, then crimp it all together.....

like i said... this was hands down the simplest.... disconnect everything, lay the wires across the fender, drop new motor in, attach everything back.... leave the sockets for the ecu how they are